2.7 vvti alpine developements supercharger

Our 2.7 fishtailing????

LIESSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSS

 

i can drift with the 2.7 on dry pavement. its not easy, but its possible.

 

a good way would be rig something up inside the cab, like a pvc pipe that goes between your headrest and seat using the headrest poles to lock it in. my friend uses this to get some good video and pics from his rabbit...its a pretty good ghetto camera mount. if you don't understand wtf im talking about i can try and get some pics lol

 

Seeing as I put 400 pounds of sand in the bed during the winter and still slide.... yeah.

Interesting idea. I'll work on it and try to get something for you guys tomorrow.

 

Yeah, I've been thinking about synthetic. still have a little bit before I need another oil change.

Ok, all those who have wanted a video, here you go. It's a little on the crappy side because my brother held it sideways and didn't hold it very steady, haha.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=22x06hniZTQ

 

It's at 14.7-ish until past 3k rpms, then it goes into open loop and drops into the high twelves. So Open loop it get rich, just not in closed loop under partial throttle.

 

what i'd like to see is some numbers on a dyno

 

Getting to that . Still waiting for the performance shop in the next town to get back to me about a dyno and tune.

 

until then

 

Heh, sorry. Not trying to drag you guys along. Waiting on the URD AFR Calibrator still. I'll have to call that place again, but I don't want to until i get the AFR unit in.

Truck is still running good and fast; no issues.

 

Still waiting on my order from URD. However, at idle (and occasionally when driving at low rpms) the engine will 'stumble'. It's as if for a split second the truck stops supplying fuel to the engine, but only at idle. Any ideas what this could be?

 

The in tank sock filter has begun stopping up with dirt and varnish. Also the factory fuel pump can not keep the supply of fuel needed for the added amount of air. So basically your problem is 2 parts one is inadequate fuel to provide the correct fuel air mix. The other is the computer is fighting the current timing settings, spark, fuel and valve train.

Try the fuel problem first. Then tackle the spark issue.

Part of your fuel fix. The other you already ordered.
http://www.urdusa.com/product_info.php?cPath=79_12&products_id=1260518592

As for your spark the factory gap is excessive for forced induction new gap on the 2.7(2TR-FE) is supposed to be .043" and max limit is .051". Also if you are running the factory Iridium plugs were not engineered for forced induction. Your solution may be as simple as bring the gap down to the minimum or buy a Denso U gap spark plug the only catch is make sure the gap is on the low side. Also you can not gap Iridium plugs because you may damage the electrode. The last thing you could try to fix or alter spark is buy a colder plug, one step down could help.

 

Hmm, I had been thinking about spark plugs off and on. The AFR calibrator is installed. Gadget wants me to call him before I start messing with it, so I'll do that monday. Side note: I looked at the timing for kicks today. Started off at about 11 degrees of advance at idle, and increased as the rpms went up, up to 35 at mid 4k's. Granted, I was sitting in my driveway, but still, interesting?

 

that is very interesting. shouldnt the timing be retarded back? when my buddy and i installed a procharger system in his camaro we had the timing retarded to compensate for the supercharger. i don't know though.

 

Thanks for the tip. I realized that today when I was putting in the AFR calibrator.

Anyway, it's not running stoich when in partial throttle boost anymore, which makes me feel much better. Expecting company the next couple days, so I'll keep tuning it myself the end of the week. Truck isn't stuttering anymore. I think it had to do with the ungodly heat we had when I felt that happening.

I can't tell if it's the placebo effect or not, but it seems to be running 'happier'. We shall see.

 

Damn this shit sounds way to complicated for me, makes me not wanna s/c my truck.

 

Maui doesn't even have a friggin dyno.

 

Basically its telling the computer the mixture is stoichiometric and adds its own air/fuel maps to correct the mixture ratio. It does this in either closed loop or open loop.

 

For the most part it is working. I mean, now it's learning what it thinks is stoich, so there's a small change. It intercepts the signal between the sensor and ECU, so the ECU is getting, for example, a signal that the AFR is too lean (when it's not) and the ECU tries to add fuel. The ECU is now working for me, not against me. It is trying to hold the afr at what it perceives as stoich, but is being tricked. That's what I'm tackling at the end of the week; zeroing out the fuel trims to the new afr.

@numbah57: You don't NEED a dyno to tune it. If you have a wideband you can do it yourself, like what I will be doing this weekend. And the only reason it's this complicated is because the kit came from a different country >.<. I'm continuing with the project because I already spent the money and time installing it. See what URD's got. I'm sure it will be much easier than this.