need better audio

This. This could possibly be done with a simple "speaker kit" from Dynamat, or you could easily order a small amount of product from sounddeadenershowdown.com or raamaudio.com. Sealing the doors can be done easily with extruded butyl rope and aluminum sheeting or plexiglass. There are plenty of options, and the "ROI" is high on deadening when done intelligently and within reason.

 

I doubt going from a 6.5 to a 6x9 would even be audible to someone that is not an enthusiast or has super hearing. And yes a sundown amp would cure his bass dilemma since adding more power would be more effective than adding .98356 square inches of cone area

 

Good job, an additional $300+ dollars sunk into an amp would sound better than a lateral move to a different speaker.

And stop treating the difference between a 6.5" and 6x9 as mere semantics. The difference in surface area is 9 sq in. or roughly 33% more. A 6x9 is closer in surface area to an 8" speaker than a 6.5" speaker.

 

If one believes Hertz Audio (I do), the difference in efficiency for the same model line between 6.5" and 6X9" speakers is 2 dB per speaker with the same power applied. This inference is from their current online catalog and applies to multiple models.

A calculation [ten times the log of the ratios of power] implies a 4 dB change in output requires about 2.5 times the power from an amp.

Using the Hertz data, two 6X9s vice two 6.5" speakers from the same OEM and model line would produce the same 4 dB SPL difference with zero change to the amp power levels.

The real problem (IMO) is that few good speaker companies produce 6X9 speakers. Hertz does, and Hybrid Audio Technology does/did -- not sure who else.

Caveat: This applies only to those frequencies being sent to the 6X9 part of the speaker, not the tweeter.

 

Image Dynamics still makes a good 6x9 driver. I have the Eclipse SC6900 component set and it is great for the price you can still snag them for. I am not perfectly happy with my setup, but I still need to deaden my doors and finish my sub install, so I don't want to judge the speaker until I get the install completed.

 

How does the size of a speaker determine what frequencies it will reproduce? An 8 inch will hit all the same notes an 18 will so saying something will play lower is misinformation. Sure it will be louder, but will still play the same frequencies.

If oval speakers were good im sure there would be alot more in production. And most of them are coax's which are great if you like shitty sounding music

 

Please note that my exact words were "lower with more authority" aka will play the low notes louder. What good is a speaker that is reproducing low frequencies if it is doing so at a volume so low it can't be heard?

Oval speakers are not made by the high end companies in mass because the end user of, say, a Dynaudio speaker is likely not just filling in the hole the stock speaker came out of. They will build an adapter plate to fit the exact speaker they want. Be it a 6.5, 7, or 8, they have options other than buying a 6x9. The OP probably does not intend to trim a lot of sheet metal to squeeze in an 8" midbass.

If you really believe that a coaxial arrangement automatically equals poor sound you really understand even less about car audio than I do. And that is saying something.

 

Poor sound is purely subjective ass wipe and tweeters getting the same signal as the mid means shhiiiit

 

I am just going to ignore the childish name calling.

I was under the impression that most coaxial speakers used a capacitor as a 1st order crossover. Sure the crossovers aren't necessarily as high quality as those in your average passive component setup, but they aren't allowing sub bass frequencies to hit the tweeter if that is the impression you were under.

Beyond that, there are coaxial speakers that can be run active and coaxial speakers with external passive crossovers. By your simple definition Focal 165KRC speakers suck, simply because the mid and tweeter are mounted together.

 

I agree no need for name calling.... And to settle all this who cares about cone size and bla bla bla.... If you like the sound who cares, your the one that's going to be hearing it

 

Common misconception that 06SR5 is making, along with tons of those who dont really pay attention to higher end audio. A "Coax" to the general car audio world simply means tweets/super tweets on top of a mid. Many of these have no crossover, or a simple 1st order to keep some bass from the tweets.

In these cases, your component "systems" are better as they have a much better (while still a "universal") crossover, and the ability to place in better locations to adjust certain aspects of the install.

Keith is referring to something like the ID XS series, and the Polk SR series components that allow the tweeter to be mounted in place of the phase plug (or over it, as in the Aura Braxial speaker line) for a co-axial mounting with much better results. There are some very real sonic benefits of a coaixial or point source driver. There are also reasons that baffle design, and speaker placement, is very important in home audio speakers.

Then you can get into some pretty nice drivers, like those found in KEF home audio stuff, or something like this Seas (that is a derivative of the KEF driver in their home speakers).

Please do not confuse a good point source or co-ax driver with the low end stuff you are used to hearing.

JStrada brings up a solid point, but keep in mind that the OP asked about what would work better in a certain situation. While some want to argue semantics (like a 3" driver will play 30hz as well, just not as loud) they are bypassing the simple fact that audio is a function of air movement, and bass is directly related to this. Excursion or cone area are the important factors here. This is not an engine, where you can "turbocharge" the driver, to make up displacement.

With bass, there is no replacement for displacement. You can certainly optimize an enclosure for a driver and achieve outstanding results from a small driver (6.5" subs, anyone!? or 8" drivers hitting 150db!) but that is not an issue here.

 

To the OP... audio is all subjective. Go listen to components that fit your budget and what ever sounds best to you, is what is best for you.

See what this thread turned into? A dick waving contest.

Point is: There will always be those who want to get into a dick waving contest. And truth be told, they may have a bigger cock than you. But it doesn't matter, because in the end it's all about how your own dick feels in your own hand.

 

I might be getting into contact with you about a new amp if this one i have shits the bed.