Fog light trouble

So tried to install fog lights and apparently failed. Hooked everything up and no light. Hardest part was running wire through firewall.


This is where i tried to suck power(white wire) and the "directions" said the green wire was ingnition so i just put it to the other green wire on the same light. This is the parking light (orange light that isnt the blinkers).



This is the relay just hangin around right now.

This is the fuse that was rigged up when i got the kit.

So the parking light lost power for whatever reason even when i took the fog lights out of the loop. Even when i taped the wires back up. No clue why here?




Got around to getting the bug gaurd on today too. But the important thing is that i get these stupid lights working!

More info:

I took a volt meter and stuck it in the fog light sockets and the readings were 12 on one side and 0 on the other, one both sockets. I checked the grounds and they are both good reading 12v... Whats the deal?

 

Im tapping into both. That picture seen on top is the green from the fogs tapping.into the green frim the parking lights. The very same thing is done with the white wire, just forgot to get a pic of that.

 

x2 on the fuses

sounds like you hvae something wired backwards

not sure i'm reading that correctly. but you SHOULD NOT be getting 12v off ground.
you SHOULD be getting zero ohms between ground and chassis.
you COULD be getting 12v if one of your meter probes is on ground and the other on a 12v source/battery terminal.

 

Something is wrong right here. A wire that they are telling you to connect to the ignition should only be powering the relay's coil. If you connected a green wire from the actual light itself to the parking light circuit, then you are trying to pull full power for the new lights from your parking light circuit. If that's what you did, then you definitely blew a fuse or possibly melted a wire in the factory harness.

 

I can barely make out the schematic on the side of the relay case. Here's the general concept: the contacts shown on the left side of the schematic should be connected on one side to you positive wires from your new lights. The other side of those contacts should connect to a fused source of constant battery hot power (positive battery terminal with an inline fuse) On the right side is the relay's coil. One side of the coil gets grounded, the other gets connected to positive 12v through a switch. This is the low current side of the relay and could be powered through the parking lights if you like without hurting anything.


If you pull the plug out of the relay and look at the terminals they may be marked. Standard numbering system for relays: 30: battery hot (needs to be fused), 87: switched power to new lights, 86 and 85 are the relay's "coil" basically an electromagnet that needs power on one side and ground on the other. The coil pulls next to no current and you can get power and ground anywhere you like for that.

 

In your very first picture you have a fat white wire hooked to the white wire with black stripe. White with black stripe is ground in the factory harness. From the looks of it, you may have hooked the output of your relay that is supposed to go to your new lights, to ground. That's going to pop a fuse on your new inline fuse holder if you have everything else hooked up right. It may have also burned up the factory ground wire.

The off road light wiring kit is not going to match up color for color with the rest of the truck. Beware.

Also looked up the factory wiring on TTORA and it looks like only one fuse for left and right parking lights. I would bet you have smoked that white wire with the black stripe somewhere back in the harness.

 

Agree with this.