So I may need a new clutch

I know I need to replace my TO bearing because it chirps like crazy, and is annoying as hell. Going to go with URD TO replacement. With that said, I seem to have an issue with my clutch I believe. If I am going to drop the trans for the TO bearing I need to look into a new clutch. Here is the issue. The truck shifts OK into 2nd, 4th, 5th, 6th, but 3rd seems to have a little hang up in it, and sometimes seems to grab funny. Almost like it's needed to be forced into 3rd. Also if it's not presses ALL THE WAY to the floor, it will "grind" a little, for lack of a better word. This only started a few days ago, and really seems to be worse when it is cold, and i don't like it. I am hoping that it is just a clutch issue and not something else like the trans. A few questions I have about clutch assemblys, whats the difference between the stage II, III, and IV kits from URD? I don't really do alot of towing, maybe a boat every now and then or a bed full of whatever, but nothing serious. Need some advice/help.

This is what I was looking into, probly with a stage II:http://www.urdusa.com/More-Products...ywheel-Combo-Package-1GR-FE/product_info.html

 

it doesn't sound like a clutch issue just because its only one gear and you use your clutch shifting into every gear. maybe MTF?

 

MTF??

 

Speak English dammit.

 

MTF being tranny fluid. And because it's only one gear out of the 5 or 6 it doesn't seem like a clutch issue. Maybe even a gear synchro but that would be bad

 

Another thing i thought about was the synchro's.

 

How many miles do you have on your clutch?

How many miles since the last time you changed your transmission fluid? I recommend www.redlineoil.com. Use the MT90 manual transmission oil. Works best with out trucks.

I am not saying my issue was the same as yours, but it had been about 30k miles since i had changed mine, and third started to be a pain. Changed the fluid and it was all better.

Are you planning on getting the Transmission Sleeve Kit from URD?

 

All miles on this same clutch i think, bought it used. Not sure of trans fluid change, i was going to do that this weekend or next with the redline, just have to find it here by me. Are you talking about the T/O bearing from URD? if so yes.

 

I am referring to this: http://www.urdusa.com/p1260519023/T...IT,-2005+-Tacoma-V6-6-Speed/product_info.html

Probably the same as you were talking about, but I just want to be clear that we are on the same page.

 

Yup. Thats it. Do you have i or know anyone who does? If I get a replacement "new" clutch kit from toyota will it work with it? I thought about getting the clutch/flywheel kit from URD, but that is a lot of coin. I may be able to get a deal on a factory clutch kit from toyota, through a buddy of mine's father.

 

This is interesting. I just had the fluid changed in my tranny and transfer case. Went with Redline 75W90 Synthetic. The guy who did it indicated that my throw out bearing was on its way out. He knew this because the clutch pedal was "stiff" and there was a slight grind, when cold. He drove it for a bit to warm up the fluids before he did the drain/change. We talked yesterday when I went to pay him and he told me that the throw out (grease) was drying out, as is apt to happen. So we started to discuss clutches and replacements. I will be doing a bit of towing this track season and he is going to check into parts with his buddy I have a friend who might be able eto source parts and my guy will do the work. My mechanic will also have the flywheel "turned", so no need to buy a new one. He also recommended that I replace the clutch master cylinder "while we are at it." So, your comments about your tranny are same as mine. I will start to do the research here shortly and anticipate changing the clutch, master cylinder, etc., in about a month...then should be good for about another 200K miles. U like URD clutches, any others recommended?

 

I don't have it, but I did help install it onto a friend's truck. All that the sleeve kit does is put a hardened steel sleeve over the factory input shaft. The factory shaft will wear badly from the factory throw out bearing. Causing a change in diameter of the input shaft. It also aids in the throw out bearing making a squeeling noise. Aside from the fact that the grease might be worn out in the bearing itself.

The sleeve protects the factory input shaft, and uses a specifics this out bearing that has a slightly larger inside diameter than the factory one.

Also, the throw out bearing upgrade kit works with all brands of clutches, as it has no impact on them.

Here is the damage done by the OEM throw-out bearing, to the factory input shaft. The sleeve will prevent this.

 

Yeah i've seen pictures like that before. I think mine is like that, or worse! I need to get the money together to get this swap done asap. I can't stand the chirping and i feel as if it is ruining my truck, only to cause more troubles. TACOMANATOR......Keep me informed of what you come up with, I would like to know.

 

Unless he has a different 2nd Gen taco, i think he is referring to his '02 Taco.

 

Yeah I know, Just curious as to what he finds out.

 

Holyfield:
I will certainly keep you posted, feel free to check in. Started a google search about clutches and clutch kits, need to do some more research. Place called Andy's that has about 7 mfgs for clutch kits. TRD, Competition, Spec, Clutch Master, and a few more. Seems like the prices all run about $450.00 +/-.
BTW: the guy that did my fluid change, he has been working for the local Toyota dealer for a long time and he was the one who swapped out my frame, shocks, cats, exhaust, headers, etc., back in July, he is real honest and seems to be a straight shooter. He definately knows his Tacos and Tundras. I do trust him and I have no reason to disbelieve his "findings." He was the one who thought it wa the TO bearing, as he thught the pedal was wayt to stiff and noted that you had to put the pedal all the way to the floor to avoid any griding. He says that the grease on the bearing dries out, gets some grey colored shit on it as it ages. Doesn't want to see me tear up a gear or a syncro. So we talked, to sleeve the T/O bearing means taking the engine transmission apart....why do it part way, why not do the labor once, put in a new kit ans master cylinder (clutch) and thus baby should run another 200K. We'll see. Looking to do this early May/late April.
Damn clutch kits are pricey and I have even looked up the clutch master cylinder, yet.

 

I think those master cylinders are anywhere between $30-100, but that may be on the higher side. I know thats a pretty big span, but you know how it goes when you google search shit.

 

Yeah, I hear ya. I just checked with my motorsports buddy and he feels that there is no need to spend any extra money on Stage 1, 2, + performance clutches. The stock set-up will suit my needs just fine. My truck has 180K on it, and the clutch is really still okay, just the TO bearing is starting to fail. I don't want t spend the labor $$ twice. His pricing on the friction plate, spring, pilot bearing, TO bearing etc., is pretty damn good, at least compared to Clutch Master/Competition Clutch, SPEC, ACT, etc. However, the master cylinder is a tad bit more. No big deal, still checking. I will keep you in the loop.

 

yeah I dont want to butt in, but man unless you are racing the truck, don't do the performance clutches.
Long story, but when I had my Stang I found out that the ford 5 speed those model years was a tender piece of shit. My 85 had the T-5 and those things are tuff. first thing i did was change out to redline, everyone on the mustang boards was doing it, and it made a world of differance.
now the stupid thing I did was a big overhaul, and I put in a king cobra clutch, the whole works from ford racing, high quantity parts, but it would wear you out in no time. no one else but me could drive that car.
yes when you are in there doing the clutch and stuff, if you have time, make a list, do motor mounts if needed, stuff like that. while you are there you might as well try to take care of it all

 

Yeah, not so great, but I still love a 6 speed. I may not really need the clutch, but I know my T/O bearing is shot, and I might as well do it all at once. It only makes sense to drop the tranny once for everything than twice when something else goes wrong. Deffinatly going to go with the redline. Might go ahead and change it now, and then put it back in when the tranny comes down as well. If I put ot in now, I might feel a little better about driving it for another month till I get the cash for the cltch together.