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Regearing My IFS Clamshell--Got Some Questions...

Discussion in 'Technical Chat' started by Slodgetto, Apr 6, 2012.

  1. Apr 6, 2012 at 8:56 PM
    #1
    Slodgetto

    Slodgetto [OP] Über Posre

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    Hi all,

    If any of you have information, tips, or links about regearing clamshell differentials, please share!!! :eek: I'm regearing my 8" E-Locker Rear and my 7.5" IFS Clamshell to 5.29s, but I can't seem to find much information on the clamshell........ I've studied ZUK's website (gearinstalls.com) in preperation for my rear diff and I think it'll be relatively easy, but ZUK refuses to work on clamshell diffs for some reason... Maybe because they're too much of a headache? :notsure:

    I'd like as much info as possible, but I'd mostly like info on how to properly measure the backlash, and how to set/measure carrier preload. I've heard of a technique that involves measuring the distance between the two, assembled, unbolted, case halves, but that doesn't sound too precise to me. I would eventually like to run 37s in place of my 35s, so this install needs to be just about perfect!! I suppose it would be possible to measure all this stuff via the pinion, but that sounds like a lot of math and headaches to me!!! lol :eek:

    I know shops regear clamshells all the time, and of course ECGS does it. Anyone from those cicles that can share the closely kept secrets of clamshells please!! :D

    Thanks.
     
    sixstring likes this.
  2. Apr 9, 2012 at 6:53 PM
    #2
    Slodgetto

    Slodgetto [OP] Über Posre

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    :woot: found the info in the FSM if anyone is interested.... Just got too measure the preloads through the pinion nut when it's all assembled (should've known that). Just have to set pinion preload to spec first and then assemble the diff, measure the preload on the pinion nut again, and just subtract whatever the pinion preload was to get the carrier preload.

    Now I was really stumped on the backlash until I saw this picture... Turns out that the drain hole is in the perfect position to access the ring gear when it's all assembled! (mind = blown!) :laugh:. Now I just have to find this clever little attachment (cicled in red) for my dial indicator. If anyone nows where I can purchase one, I'd love to know! :D

    [​IMG]
     
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  3. Apr 9, 2012 at 6:57 PM
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    G scott04

    G scott04 ...

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    a micrometer, HF version works just fine. Magnetic base and dial indicator as well, all told you need about $40 for HF tools, and the good bearing puller set usually runs 150ish. Depending on the quality of the set 200-300 in tools is more than enough to make it happen.

    This is the guide for dana axles, it covers all the basics quite well:
    http://www.pirate4x4.com/articles/te...sta/Gear_Setup


    (taken from ttora)
     
  4. Apr 9, 2012 at 7:04 PM
    #4
    Slodgetto

    Slodgetto [OP] Über Posre

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    nice link! I've got all those tools except for that little attachment I circled above. I have the dial indicator but it did not come with the piece I circled in the picture.... it appears to be another attachment?
     
  5. Apr 9, 2012 at 7:08 PM
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    Slodgetto

    Slodgetto [OP] Über Posre

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  6. Jun 13, 2014 at 7:44 PM
    #6
    Slodgetto

    Slodgetto [OP] Über Posre

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    For posterity...... Monte! cough cough haha


    I did eventually, successfully re-gear my clamshell, ran it hard until I sold the truck, and the above info worked great! :)
    Plenty of CV axles snapped, but never once did I have a single issue with the diff.

    To measure the backlash, I bought (linky-----> http://www.dialindicator.com/accessory_attachments.php) the short, internal, hole attachment (CDI29) for my dial indicator and it was just BARELY long enough to reach the teeth through the drain hole. It worked with my thick 5.29 ring gear (which would be closer to the hole than a 4.10 ring gear, for example), but I would probably recommend getting the long, internal, hole attachment (CDI28-6) for this job, as it would reach a lot easier.

    Also, I just used a big, flathead screw driver to rock the carrier back and forth to measure the BL on the ring gear... no fancy Toyota tools here. lol

    Pictures speak a thousand words:
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
     
    Last edited: Jun 13, 2014
  7. Jun 15, 2014 at 6:03 PM
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    Dirty Pool

    Dirty Pool FLIES ON THE FRIES, KETCHUPS WATERED DOWN

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    It's funny how things come around. Years ago I made my own based on the drawing (linked to the pt#) from that same company. I used the 1 7/8" (long) pattern.

    DSCN1044800x600_zps2b2a1ff0_d159741b2ddba55632bec15566a137b47dc4ed89.jpg
    DSCN1038800x600_zps3a96b3ac_03867c99b6938ecaf8b682443f50415f6540b591.jpg
     
    Last edited: Jun 15, 2014
  8. Jun 17, 2014 at 11:43 PM
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    Slodgetto

    Slodgetto [OP] Über Posre

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    Yeah it is pretty funny.... lol Nice work!! That attachment looks great.
     
  9. Nov 12, 2014 at 12:06 PM
    #9
    GEARAHOLIC

    GEARAHOLIC Well-Known Member

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  10. Nov 13, 2014 at 8:35 PM
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    mtnkid85

    mtnkid85 Well-Known Member

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    Yea, Im going to want to be able to find this in the future! Thanks
     
  11. Jul 17, 2015 at 4:13 PM
    #11
    akamrkent

    akamrkent Well-Known Member

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    Nice work on finding some good info. I'm about to do this too.
     
  12. Apr 12, 2021 at 12:37 PM
    #12
    Guitardude313

    Guitardude313 Member

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    How were you able to get the outside pinion bearing pressed back on? Other than a 700$ service tool thats backordered until september all i can think of is buying a really large C clamp and fabricating it into what i need
     
  13. Apr 22, 2021 at 6:08 AM
    #13
    Scott17818

    Scott17818 Well-Known Member

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    hammer and an old bearing race, or brass punch...
     

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