Kidd's 2012 SW build

I only workout hard so I can eat whatever the hell I want without putting on an excessive amount of weight LOL.

 

I feel you on that bro. Went back to boxing. My homeslice is a close friend/training partner with Vic Ortiz. Really stepping up my boxing game again. Probably gonna go back to Jits soon as well. My back is much better after the surgery.

 

Where did u get the final wrap for interior?

 

Amazon.com check out the 3M Di-Noc wrap.

 

liked you setup so much had to duplicate it

 

Sick truck man!! What kind of lift and where did you get it done? Cost?

 

maaark-just saw your truck on my friends fb page. im not sure if he did the lift for you. waiting for my rims to come in and everything is going on as well. looks sick. i hope mines comes out as nice

 

Mark, truck looks great bro. The MGM with Graphite is a perfect match. Can't wait to see it in person.

 

x2. see S7ICKlVlAN...your truck is an inspiration to us all!!! cheeee

 

Heh wait till it gets closer to the 50% complete mark.....gonna be some new shit!

Picked up my Opti-Coat 2.0 permanent nano sealent. Basically means no more waxing my truck.....EVER. Will even stop fading/hazing on the plastics and headlights. Weekend project!!!!

 

you da man

 

Just got done applying OC 2.0. OC is a nano tech sealant that permanently adheres to the paint of your vehicle and provides a hydrophobic, hard seal. It works on wheels, exterior plastics, and headlights (avoid hazing). I started off with a wash/dry using Optimum No Rinse car wash/lubricant.





Once the wash/dry was done, I busted out my Makita 9227 with a 6" blue foam pad to apply G Techniq's P1 polish. LINK. P1 is a nano compound that does not break down like organic compounds. It will retain it's abrasive properties even after it dries up. You just give the designated area a light spray of straight water. Before applying a permanent coat like OC 2.0, you want to make sure all previous wax/oils have been removed from the paint to guarantee the best possible bond. I previously used Collinite 845 which is a very hard core sealant that can last upwards of 3-4 months. Typically, you can remove old wax using a 50/50 blend of alc/water or a product like Car Pro Eraser. It's not that easy with Collinite. I buffed the entire car with the P1 polish till all panels were squeaky clean and wax free.



Following the P1, I wiped the entire truck down with Car Pro Eraser. . CPE is a water based cleaner that removes old wax residue, oils, etc from the paint and gives you a surface that is thoroughly prepped and ready for coating. I sprayed it on generously and wiped the entire truck clean with a PakShak microfiber towel, making sure there were no flash streaks anywhere on the painted surfaces. I should note, P1 is water soluble and Eraser easily removes any remant P1 from exterior trim/plastics with relative ease. Don't worry about perma-white marks on your black plastics with this stuff.

With everything cleaned and prepped, I got out my Opti-Coat 2.0 and read through the brief instructions to apply. It comes with an applicator. . In order to maximize the OC 2.0, I placed the sponge applicator in a nitrile glove and wrapped that with a plain blue shop towel. Doing this allows you to apply with the soft sponge, but blocks the applicator from soaking up all your OC 2.0. I'd recommend it.



OC 2.0 goes on very light and just a little applied to the wrapped applicator goes a long way. It will go on hazy with a slightly oily appearance and should (almost immediately) flash to clear. If it does not flash, buff it a little with the wrapped applicator and it should do the trick. OC 2.0 is self leveling, but applying it too heavy can leave "swirl marks" on the finish and as scary as that may sound, it's very easy to avoid. I did one panel at a time with a 5-7 min break in between to confirm everything went on well and flashed clear. Apply the OC 2.0 in a single direction with the first coat and then immediately wipe across the grain of the first coat immediately after initial application to ensure a nice level coat. It should spread well.

Again, this (OC 2.0) can be applied to all exterior plastics. I did all the light housings, door jambs, mirrors, back windows, front valence, grille, fog lights, fender flare gaskets, window frame rubber with it and still had over 1/2 the syringe of OC 2.0 left. I will do my wheels in a few months when the Collinite wears off of them.

All the work to apply the OC 2.0 should yield me a well protected, hydrophobic finish that I'll never have to wax again. Just gloss/detail spray and regular washes. Hope this info helps some of you free up more weekend time. Check out Autogeek.net for even more info on this stuff. I'm a noob compared to some of the guys on that site.

 

Solid!!!! This looks like some good shit...extra protection for da salt spray!!! Yeeeheee

 

Yep for sure. No more water spots, no more bird etchings, no more waxing! Yeah!

 

Great write up Dave! Ive been using Zaino products but this looks like something i want to do since my truck is black. Mahalo, Mr Aloha! Chee!

 

Flat!!! Whats good bro. I started with Zaino, transitioned to Pinnacle, Adam's, and now have put together a combination of something from a bunch of the top boutique shops. You definitely wanna check this stuff out. I sprayed some water on it this evening and it is VERY hydrophobic. If it lasts like it's advertised, this is just about as good as it gets.

 

damnit, just can't stop ing

 

Ya know, if I could get ahold of that front end and slap it on my truck, I could have a one of a kind, in the world, because they don't make rad reds anymore, with that clip.... ing more.

 

my friend is actually planning to do the 2012 front end on his 2010 lol. don't ask me why, but he definitely has the extra cash laying around to do so.

 

My Shortbed Twin I swear the 2012s with BFDs should come with "skeet skeet" smiley face options