Wishbone Runner's Build

Also, the CEL went away this morning, I would have thought the super cold we just got would make it more likely to leak but IDK.

 

Take this with a salt lick and the caveat that I know nothing about this particular code but. ....
SOME codes on SOME vehicles will trip if conditions are met a single time and will only reset themselves if the conditions are negative for many consecutive times.

This MAY be a good sign that the code was a false positive. How many times/how long have you run the thing since it first threw the code?

 

Yes, and no. The manual doens't say to rotate the crankshaft off of TDC, as a general rule that means no interference. At new Model training they told us they were. Just be careful, if it binds, don't force it.

 

The first sign was swooshing in the dash (gas in the coolant) the last few weeks. Then, checked the coolant Friday, way low, topped it off. Drove up to Edwards Friday night, no CEL, Saturday to Glenwood and back, no CEL, then Sunday morning cold start CEL on. Check everything, looked good, pulled the battery to clear it, drove to Glenwood, no issues, truck sat all day whioe fishing, start it up in the afternoon, CEL on. Went to Autozone and the confirmed it was P0306, which I knew it would be. Did not reset it, have shutoff and restarted maybe 6 times since then, and the code was gone this morning.

Good to know, and thanks again for the advice. I will be studying the manual carefully before messing with the chain/timing.

I assume yours had the same P030X (likely P0306) code?

 

Well either I missed something or you should've mentioned that earlier
Pressurized coolant and mixed fluids should tell you head gasket without a diagnostic code. Unless there's some, even worse cause I'm not aware of.

 

Sorry, guess i missed mentioning that . . .

 

I had the p0306. Every one of the head gasket jobs I did on the 4runners were p0306.

The thing that sucks about the way these blow is it is all into the combustion chamber. The coolant doesn't mix with the oil, it would have to pass the rings to make it to the oil. The way I find it, pressure test the cooling system and bore scope the cylinder. On a hot engine you might even be able to see steam coming out of the spark plug hole. On my 4runner it also killed both the A/F sensor and Oxygen sensor. Coolant down the exhaust stream.

 

I thought cylinder pressure made it into the cooling system over pressurizing it? Or is coolant seeping into the combustion chamber when the motor is off and the coolant is still pressurized? (engines in general, not the 1GR specifically)

 

Not really, because the radiator cap has a relief around 14-15psi the system will not over pressure. The issue comes from the combustion gasses replacing the coolant (air pockets).

 

Yeah, that's what I mean. I figured you lose your coolant out the relief rather than into the combustion chamber.
I guess I could quit cluttering up James' build thread though.

 

That's what I figured. Glad that others have gone through this before me so I am not wasting big bucks on chasing gremlins and can cut right to the problem.

Not cluttering at all, Brian knows his shit and this is all new to me, so the more info the better, and hopefully help someone else down the line

 

Let us know when we can come over, drink your beer, lean against your truck, get in the way, provide useless information, act like we're helping, and put the timing chain on wrong so we can see for sure if you can mate a valve and a piston.

 

Ah!.. Brett gets where I'm coming from

 

I knew I could count on you guys for something! Parts will be ordered next week, then I will probably start the tear down the following weekend, probably no progress Thanksgiving weekend, completion hopefully the following weekend, 12/6. So I would say 12/6 some beer can be drank.

 

So, here is my parts list:

Gasket Kit #04112-31720 - $180 - http://toyotaparts.bochtoyotasouth.c...ota/0411231720

SnapOn 10 mm Bi-Hex tool - $30 - http://store.snapon.com/Double-Hex-S...x-P646038.aspx

Water Pump #16100-09471- $87 - http://www.ebay.com/itm/Engine-Wate...Parts_Accessories&hash=item43cd9d32d2&vxp=mtr


Holding off on the head bolts for now, but these possibly:

ARP Studs - $299 Pro Head Stud Set - 1GR(4.0L V6)

 

Are they "torque to yield"?

If so, get new ones no questions asked.

Looked at RockAuto yet?

 

Not sure, thefatkid didn't seem to think so, said they had stretch a spec to reuse or not, and reused his. OEM ones are $7x8, $56. Need to look into the yielding a bit further, maybe have them on hand and return as needed, again not that expensive in the grand scheme of things, probably better to just do it and not worry about it.

#90910-02162

http://www.ebay.com/itm/TOYOTA-OEM-...Parts_Accessories&hash=item3f3522bbdb&vxp=mtr

RockAuto was more expensive or didn't have the stuff I have already ordered.

 

Looks like head bolts are $35 - $52 at Rock Auto. Full gasket set is $128. Water pump is $58 - $98

I've had real good luck with them in the past. I bought the reman heads for my ranger from a specialty head remanufacturer but the bolts and gaskets all came from RockAuto.

 

I have no problem with RA, order from them all the time, but going full OEM on this job, which they don't carry.

 

So it sounds like this a disturbingly common problem?

Is it somehow unique to the runners or does it happen frequently in the tacomas too?

How many miles are on yours?