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Any interest in internal roll cage kits for 05+ Tacomas?

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Old 09-22-2011, 08:55 PM   #21
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Defined View Post
1.75" .120wall dom with 6 attachment points to the chassis.

fyi... 4130 tube isnt any lighter than the dom/mild equivalent. so tube choice dosent make any difference besides strength and price.
220 lbs is a heck of a lot of tubing in an access cab. It's great for a race cage but we're not talking race ready cages.
If the person engineering a cage with 4130 is worth their price a 4130 cage will be stronger and lighter. That is where real engineering comes into play. However we are NOT going to go there in this thread, and I'm not going to mess with a moly cage.

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Originally Posted by Mxpatriot View Post
Group buy?
No. I get that you really want a cage, thank you for your input.
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Old 09-22-2011, 09:05 PM   #22
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Race Ready Cage would obviously require much more metal & time = Higher Costs.

Have you begun to design a cage or what are your ideas for one?! Assuming similar design to 1st Gen cages?!
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Old 09-22-2011, 09:06 PM   #23
it's about the off-road miles
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Old 09-22-2011, 09:14 PM   #24
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Be interested in a double cab that would retain the rear seats and the majority of the spacing for the passengers. But without needing to switch to race seats, although that would be a cool option. I would totally do a weld in kit. As long as you are careful preping the floor so that the carpet would move out of the way it would be fine.
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Old 09-22-2011, 09:19 PM   #25
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Quote:
Originally Posted by theduck911 View Post
Race Ready Cage would obviously require much more metal & time = Higher Costs.

Have you begun to design a cage or what are your ideas for one?! Assuming similar design to 1st Gen cages?!
This is step one. I have some ideas but I haven't started on it. They are going to take a huge amount of time to engineer in this cab (see below) so I wanted to see interest first.

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Originally Posted by Whitecloud View Post
Be interested in a double cab that would retain the rear seats and the majority of the spacing for the passengers. But without needing to switch to race seats, although that would be a cool option. I would totally do a weld in kit. As long as you are careful preping the floor so that the carpet would move out of the way it would be fine.
Right, keeping the factory rear seats, that's going to be um fun... I wish they could be moved away from the back wall. There's going to be a lot of energy put into keeping those seats, but I'm with you on wanting to be able to keep them.
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Old 09-22-2011, 09:29 PM   #26
it's about the off-road miles
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what about reg cabs like mine? would i need new seats correct?
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Old 09-23-2011, 05:30 AM   #27
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Quote:
Originally Posted by traxman25 View Post

No. I get that you really want a cage, thank you for your input.


Good!

I noticed in some of your other cages you bend the A pillar tube around the dash, have you considered running it through the A/C vents? (like MJP2)
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Old 09-23-2011, 07:39 AM   #28
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mxpatriot View Post


Good!

I noticed in some of your other cages you bend the A pillar tube around the dash, have you considered running it through the A/C vents? (like MJP2)
I have considered it. Doing that is a very involved process that is a customer service nightmare. Not something I'm interested in getting involved with because of the install headaches. The last thing I want to deal with is someone who drilled a 2 inch hole in their dash in the wrong spot.
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Old 09-23-2011, 07:54 AM   #29
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Quote:
Originally Posted by traxman25 View Post
I have considered it. Doing that is a very involved process that is a customer service nightmare. Not something I'm interested in getting involved with because of the install headaches. The last thing I want to deal with is someone who drilled a 2 inch hole in their dash in the wrong spot.
make a disclaimer
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Old 09-23-2011, 07:57 AM   #30
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yeah i was origionally looking at your first gen roll cages and i decided not go go with it because it didnt go through the dash.

you should make it an option for the 2nd gens
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Old 09-23-2011, 08:51 AM   #31
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I'm interested as well.

Most important thing to me is that the truck remains a comfortable daily driver with the cage.

My biggest fear when I go wheeling is that Im going to destroy a truck that I still have 4 years of payments on. I'd feel a lot better about doing hardcore wheeling knowing that if I rolled, I'd be driving around in a beat up truck, but still driving.

Also, mines an Access Cab
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Old 09-23-2011, 08:56 AM   #32
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One thing to keep in mind is that a rollcage makes the truck MUCH louder inside the cab. Especially for a daily driver this can be a serious issue. Every bump, knock, rattle, rev, and shift is transferred through the tubes surrounding your head and the resonance can be deafening.

On long drives I wear earplugs in my truck otherwise the droning puts me to sleep. My passengers have experienced the same thing.
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Old 09-23-2011, 08:57 AM   #33
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TacoTabe View Post
I'm interested as well.

Most important thing to me is that the truck remains a comfortable daily driver with the cage.

My biggest fear when I go wheeling is that Im going to destroy a truck that I still have 4 years of payments on. I'd feel a lot better about doing hardcore wheeling knowing that if I rolled, I'd be driving around in a beat up truck, but still driving.

Also, mines an Access Cab
There are other things that can break in a roll that will deadline your truck until you put $$$$ into it. The cage is about having the opportunity to put that $$$ in the truck, instead of being seriously injured or killed.
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Old 09-23-2011, 08:59 AM   #34
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mjp2 View Post
One thing to keep in mind is that a rollcage makes the truck MUCH louder inside the cab. Especially for a daily driver this can be a serious issue. Every bump, knock, rattle, rev, and shift is transferred through the tubes surrounding your head and the resonance can be deafening.

On long drives I wear earplugs in my truck otherwise the droning puts me to sleep. My passengers have experienced the same thing.

i havent experienced this yet, but ill tell you what... i took my interior out of my truck and it sounded like my truck was falling apart, also sounded like i was smashing everything or gouging scratches into my truck with it was just like a little branch and stuff... takes a while to get used too. i could only imagine with a cage...
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Old 09-23-2011, 09:12 AM   #35
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mjp2 View Post
One thing to keep in mind is that a rollcage makes the truck MUCH louder inside the cab. Especially for a daily driver this can be a serious issue. Every bump, knock, rattle, rev, and shift is transferred through the tubes surrounding your head and the resonance can be deafening.

On long drives I wear earplugs in my truck otherwise the droning puts me to sleep. My passengers have experienced the same thing.
I have never experienced this. How is your cage attached? Does it actually hit the inside of the cab? Do you still have carpet and interior panels, if not did you remove them prior to installing the cage or at the time of cage installation? I'm thinking this is actually an issue related to the type of install, not the fact that you have a cage.

Quote:
Originally Posted by 97yota4wd View Post
i havent experienced this yet, but ill tell you what... i took my interior out of my truck and it sounded like my truck was falling apart, also sounded like i was smashing everything or gouging scratches into my truck with it was just like a little branch and stuff... takes a while to get used too. i could only imagine with a cage...
There is a ton of sound deadening built into everything. All that padding that you see behind panels is sound absorbing material. The carpet, carpet padding, seats, body panels, almost everything in the cab absorbs sound to make the ride quieter. The more you remove the worse it gets.
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Old 09-23-2011, 09:21 AM   #36
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mxpatriot View Post
There are other things that can break in a roll that will deadline your truck until you put $$$$ into it. The cage is about having the opportunity to put that $$$ in the truck, instead of being seriously injured or killed.

I understand that for most its a safety thing.

I rolled my old ford explorer, and destroyed the truck. So for me the roll bar would be to keep the truck from being destroyed in the event of a rollover.

I understand you a rollcage doesnt mean you can just flip it back over and keep driving, but it should prevent the truck from being totaled.
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Old 09-23-2011, 09:25 AM   #37
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Quote:
Originally Posted by traxman25 View Post
I have never experienced this. How is your cage attached? Does it actually hit the inside of the cab? Do you still have carpet and interior panels, if not did you remove them prior to installing the cage or at the time of cage installation? I'm thinking this is actually an issue related to the type of install, not the fact that you have a cage.



There is a ton of sound deadening built into everything. All that padding that you see behind panels is sound absorbing material. The carpet, carpet padding, seats, body panels, almost everything in the cab absorbs sound to make the ride quieter. The more you remove the worse it gets.

yeah my trucks getting a cage now and ill be sound deadening the cab when i get it back.

every person that i have heard that has a cage says its loud as hell inside.

not sure if cause its a full cage. engine and bed also. idk

eitherway this is going to be a great buy.
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Old 09-23-2011, 09:45 AM   #38
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Quote:
Originally Posted by traxman25 View Post
I have never experienced this. How is your cage attached? Does it actually hit the inside of the cab? Do you still have carpet and interior panels, if not did you remove them prior to installing the cage or at the time of cage installation? I'm thinking this is actually an issue related to the type of install, not the fact that you have a cage.
I'm running a 12 point cage made from 2" .120 chromoly tied into the A pillars and the frame. In areas where it passes through the floorpan, the pan itself is sandwiched between steel plates bolted together. The bottom plates tie into the frame like so:


The rear supports pass through the rear glass, which has been replaced with lexan. I wanted to keep the rear slider functional.


Regarding interior, it's all there except for the main sound deadening components. The headliner and carpet were removed prior to installing the cage have not been reinstalled. The metal has been coated with bedliner to provide at least a little sound deadening while protecting the metal.


The cage does not make contact with the sheetmetal in any spots.


Quote:
Originally Posted by theduck911 View Post




Mike's (mjp2) cage would probably be the easiest to copy for a WIY kit or a Bolt-On kit
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Old 09-23-2011, 09:45 AM   #39
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TacoTabe View Post
I understand that for most its a safety thing.

I rolled my old ford explorer, and destroyed the truck. So for me the roll bar would be to keep the truck from being destroyed in the event of a rollover.

I understand you a rollcage doesnt mean you can just flip it back over and keep driving, but it should prevent the truck from being totaled.
Depends on what your definition of totaled is I guess. It sounds to me like you're really more so looking for an exo cage than an internal. The exo will "help" protect the exterior of the truck a lot more than an internal. In a hard roll with an internal you'll still lose all of the glass, there's simply nothing that can be done about that. With and exo you have more of a chance of not messing up the window openings. You also have a weaker, heavier cage and it will dramatically change the look of the truck.
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Old 09-23-2011, 09:52 AM   #40
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No vibration isolation is what's causing a lot of that noise.
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