2005+ Toyota Tacoma 5 Lug
Front Brake Pad and Rotor Replacement
Pretty simple jobbie.
I set about to do this using mainly hand tools. The average guy who's doing this in his garage may not have access to pressurized air. I used what is pictured above. I did use air when taking wheels on/off.
-21mm socket (For Wheel Removal)
-14mm wrench (Gearwrench ratchet wrench is great here)
-1/2 Breaker Bar/Ratchet
-Large Channel Locks
-Smaller Channel Lock-type pliers (I used Knipex)
-Can of brake cleaner
-Tube of Silicone brake lubricant.
I chose "premium" pads and rotors. Rotors are more heavy duty than an economy rotor. Went with them since I'm running the 30's and to get a little better overall stopping power.
-Centric "Black" Rotors
-Centric Ceramic pads
-Chock rear wheels
-LOOSEN, DO NOT REMOVE lug nuts
-(Optional: Place truck in "N". This will allow you to move the wheel/rotor/hub for better access to bolts.)
-Raise front of vehicle. Rest on jack stands
-Remove loosened lug nuts, remove wheels.
-Remove the 2 14mm bolts that anchor caliper to bracket. Black arrows in pic. Caliper can be laid on top of the UCA then. The 14mm bolts thread into the slider pins. Each pin has a larger portion where the 14mm bolt threads into. Sometimes when loosening or tightening the caliper to anchor bolts, the pins will spin with the bolt. Use a small pair of channel lock type plier to hold the pin in place while removing/install the bolts.
In the 5th and 6th pictures down, you can easily see the portion of the slider pin where the bolt threads into. A wrench is ment to placed there...or channel locks...whatever is closer.
-Retract caliper piston using large Channel Locks. Open them wide enough to grasp the piston and the backside of the caliper and apply steady pressure. Piston will retract into the bore.
-Remove the 2 17mm bolts that hold the bracket to the steering knuckle. Black arrows in pic. (Nevermind my tubby co-worker Mike in the background)
-Like to hit things? This is your chance. If the rotors are stuck on you'll have to hammer then off. Mine were. I ended up attacking from the backside of the rotors. Good solid blows, nothing he-manish. May have to spin the rotor, hit it, spin rotor, hit it, rinse, repeat until off.
-This is the hub. It's all rusty and crap. Clean it off and put some lube on it so it's not so shitty next brake job.
-Cleaned and lubed.
Taking care of the brackets:
-Take the caliper bracket to your bench and clean it all up. Remove the hardware and with a wire brush, clean the grooves, clean the hardware.
-Reinstall the hardware and then lube. I squirt a little lube out and use a brush to coat the hardware. Good even coverage.
-Also remove the slider pins. Clean and Lube those. They tend to get rusty.
-Remove rotor from packaging. I place the rotor on backwards first to clean it, then flip it over to the correctly installed position and clean that side as well. Clean with brake cleaner. I also use a lug nut to hold the rotor upright once it's installed correctly.
-Insert and tighten bracket to knuckle bolts.
-Install new brake pads and lube each pad. These brake pads did fit perfectly. With lesser quality pads you'll get some that don't fit into the brackets properly and some modding is then required. None of that with these.
-Install and tighten the caliper to anchor bolts.
***VERY IMPORTANT STEPS ARE REQUIRED HERE***
-Place wheel(s) on truck.
-Install lugs, tighten snugly.
-Lower truck back to ground.
-TORQUE LUG NUTS TO 80-85 FT LBS
-PUMP UP BRAKE PEDAL UNTIL FIRM
-Break in pads with several "normal" stops from about 30 mph.
The old stuff:
Pads were a heavy 3mm, light 4mm on friction material left. Not really a "close call" kind of repair, but they were getting close enough to start bugging me.
No reviews or unwavering comments yet. I drove around the block to break them in a little and then drove home.