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Old 10-08-2012, 11:22 AM   #1
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Fat Bob's/ Tires

This is a question out for the 4-banger/5-lugger community but specifically for the 5-lugger community.

1) Those that have installed the Fat Bob's, what problems have you run into? I've read of a couple, but wanted to compile a personal list that I might run into when I install it in a few weeks.

2) Is anyone here running 265/70/15's? I'm thinking of getting these instead of 235/75/15 and regearing it.
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Old 10-08-2012, 01:58 PM   #2
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Did you watch the Ready Lift video? It's on their site and is very informative.
I plan on breaking everything loose before I get my kit to make sure everything is ready to come apart and goes smooth. This lift looks much easier than my 4Runner lift and shocks. PB Blaster everything ahead of time and go through it. If you're doing shocks too in the front, Autozone has a fine spring compressor that they lend out. Just make sure you get the one with the safety pins.
Keep us posted. Doug
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Old 10-09-2012, 06:55 AM   #3
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Ya, I watched the video and everything so I know what's expected but I'm just wondering if people ran into any problems while installing it. That way, I'll be ready for it. I drive 70+ miles everyday so I can't afford to not have a car just for a day if this messes up.

And anyone out there running 265's? or should I just jump up to 16" wheels instead?
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Old 10-09-2012, 04:31 PM   #4
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As others have said, that readylift video is very helpful. Don't even bother with Fat Bob's instructions and just follow the video. However, there were three things stood out as being a pain when I installed my Fat Bob's lift.

1) Rotating the top of the front struts in order for the spacers to align with the mounting holes properly. I borrowed some coil spring compressors in order to do this and you will to unless someone can point out another way to do this. Have some on hand when you start otherwise you'll have to put the install on hold like I did.

2) Removing the old rear shocks was a pain because the shock shaft can spin freely when you try to remove the nut. If you don't intend to keep the shocks, then you can just clamp down on the shaft with some vice grips when removing the nut, or cut the shaft. Since I wanted to keep the original shocks, it was a little more time consuming for me.

3) Installing the longer/beefier rear shocks proved to be very difficult because the bushing at the bottom of the shock did not want to fit in the mount. I had to trim some of the bushing material to make it fit.

Check this post in my build thread for pics of each of these things I mentioned. Knowing all of these things prior to install would've saved me a lot of time. It really isn't that difficult of a job but these 3 things slowed me down the most. Hope this helps. Good luck and post pics when you're done!
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Old 10-09-2012, 04:42 PM   #5
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Almost forgot, get a pair of these for your rear shocks since they are not included in the kit. Buy 'em now and save yourself the trouble of having to install them after the shocks are already mounted like I did lol
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Old 10-09-2012, 04:51 PM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CHA0S View Post
1) Rotating the top of the front struts in order for the spacers to align with the mounting holes properly. I borrowed some coil spring compressors in order to do this and you will to unless someone can point out another way to do this. Have some on hand when you start otherwise you'll have to put the install on hold like I did.
Spring compressor shouldn't be necessary. Effort should be no worse than adjusting the threaded perch on a coilover.

- Install the strut into the top bucket and tighten the three nuts. The strut eyelet at the bottom would then be misaligned from the lower control arm by 120 deg.
- Insert a long screwdriver or equivalent pry bar in the eyelet and rotate the body of the strut to line up the eyelet with the control arm.
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Old 10-09-2012, 05:10 PM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CHA0S View Post
As others have said, that readylift video is very helpful. Don't even bother with Fat Bob's instructions and just follow the video. However, there were three things stood out as being a pain when I installed my Fat Bob's lift.

1) Rotating the top of the front struts in order for the spacers to align with the mounting holes properly. I borrowed some coil spring compressors in order to do this and you will to unless someone can point out another way to do this. Have some on hand when you start otherwise you'll have to put the install on hold like I did.

2) Removing the old rear shocks was a pain because the shock shaft can spin freely when you try to remove the nut. If you don't intend to keep the shocks, then you can just clamp down on the shaft with some vice grips when removing the nut, or cut the shaft. Since I wanted to keep the original shocks, it was a little more time consuming for me.

3) Installing the longer/beefier rear shocks proved to be very difficult because the bushing at the bottom of the shock did not want to fit in the mount. I had to trim some of the bushing material to make it fit.

Check this post in my build thread for pics of each of these things I mentioned. Knowing all of these things prior to install would've saved me a lot of time. It really isn't that difficult of a job but these 3 things slowed me down the most. Hope this helps. Good luck and post pics when you're done!
Quote:
Originally Posted by CHA0S View Post
Almost forgot, get a pair of these for your rear shocks since they are not included in the kit. Buy 'em now and save yourself the trouble of having to install them after the shocks are already mounted like I did lol
These are the things I'm asking. Thanks for posting and I will check out the pics! I'm hoping everything goes as planned.
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Old 10-10-2012, 06:25 AM   #8
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Another member steered me towards this kit.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/2005-2012-TO...88a569&vxp=mtr

He said the parts were very good qulaity.

They have a good description of why they are better.

If you want new shocks, then you can buy the Bilstein HD's seperately.

The Bilsteins do come with boots. The white ones from FD's do not.

FYI,
Doug
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Old 10-10-2012, 08:20 AM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by KenLyns View Post
Spring compressor shouldn't be necessary. Effort should be no worse than adjusting the threaded perch on a coilover.

- Install the strut into the top bucket and tighten the three nuts. The strut eyelet at the bottom would then be misaligned from the lower control arm by 120 deg.
- Insert a long screwdriver or equivalent pry bar in the eyelet and rotate the body of the strut to line up the eyelet with the control arm.
Well that just sounds too easy lol . I wish I would've tried that during my install ha! Scaplus, I would try KenLyns way first.
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Old 10-11-2012, 06:03 AM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dougtoms01 View Post
Another member steered me towards this kit.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/2005-2012-TO...88a569&vxp=mtr

He said the parts were very good qulaity.

They have a good description of why they are better.

If you want new shocks, then you can buy the Bilstein HD's seperately.

The Bilsteins do come with boots. The white ones from FD's do not.

FYI,
Doug
I might go with the one by CCM Offroad, which runs at $200 but don't have included shocks, then I'll get rear Skyjackers shocks through AutoAnything. I'll get the front ones later on. That puts me in the ball park of $260, which isn't bad at all. Plus alignment afterwards, will get the total around $320.
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Old 10-11-2012, 06:05 AM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CHA0S View Post
Well that just sounds too easy lol . I wish I would've tried that during my install ha! Scaplus, I would try KenLyns way first.
Thanks! Sounds easy enough
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