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Hellwig minor hell

Discussion in '2nd Gen. Tacomas (2005-2015)' started by Raylo, Mar 14, 2012.

  1. Apr 4, 2012 at 7:54 PM
    #21
    Rich91710

    Rich91710 Well-Known Member

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    Satoshi with FJ badge, factory cruise, factory intermittent wipers, Redline Tuning hood-lift struts, Hellwig Swaybar, Rosen DVD-Nav
    I got mine from http://www.suspensionconnection.com/
    7670
    2005-2011
    Toyota Tacoma 2wd $241.16
    (excludes Prerunner) - REAR Sway Bar (3/4" diameter) - Hellwig # 7670

    Funny thing is, the label on the box says 4wd, but everywhere I've checked 7670 shows correct for the 5-lug.
     
  2. Apr 5, 2012 at 3:38 AM
    #22
    Raylo

    Raylo [OP] Well-Known Member

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    Got it from Amazon for ~ $225.

     
  3. Apr 5, 2012 at 4:16 AM
    #23
    cmoschip

    cmoschip Well-Known Member

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    Thanks!
     
  4. Apr 15, 2012 at 12:13 PM
    #24
    fletch aka

    fletch aka www.BeLikeBrit.org

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    TRD cat back exhaust, TRD Cold Air Intake, differential breather mod' Hellwig rear sway bar, 16x8 TRD Ivan Stewart's, Michelin LTX A/T2, DTRL Stealth Mode Mod, custom "Texas Edition" shift knob, Sock's "Classic" bedside decals, MetalMiller custom grill emblem, 20% front tinted windows, tinted taillights, Viper alarm, ScanGauge II, Flyzeye Designs V2W Tacoma Interior LED lighting, de-mud flapped, de-badged, extra D-rings under bed bolts, WeatherTech ED floor mats, G4 Elite Fold a Cover ,Toyota bed mat, tailgate theft deterrent device and absolutely no plasti-dip!
    Did the sway bar help with the axel wrap?
     
  5. Apr 30, 2012 at 4:18 PM
    #25
    fletch aka

    fletch aka www.BeLikeBrit.org

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    TRD cat back exhaust, TRD Cold Air Intake, differential breather mod' Hellwig rear sway bar, 16x8 TRD Ivan Stewart's, Michelin LTX A/T2, DTRL Stealth Mode Mod, custom "Texas Edition" shift knob, Sock's "Classic" bedside decals, MetalMiller custom grill emblem, 20% front tinted windows, tinted taillights, Viper alarm, ScanGauge II, Flyzeye Designs V2W Tacoma Interior LED lighting, de-mud flapped, de-badged, extra D-rings under bed bolts, WeatherTech ED floor mats, G4 Elite Fold a Cover ,Toyota bed mat, tailgate theft deterrent device and absolutely no plasti-dip!
    I used SD Trucksprings.Com Hellwig Model 7671; $208.75 shipped.
    You are correct, instructions sucked, pretty straight forward installation though.
    I installed the bar to the rear-end housing first and then mounted the frame brackets, moved everything around for the best fit and then tightened everything down. Ordered some grade 8 hardware from work and am going to swap out everything but the u-bolts, going to use nylon locking nuts vs. the center lock lock nuts, using lock nuts on everything.
     
  6. Apr 30, 2012 at 4:28 PM
    #26
    Raylo

    Raylo [OP] Well-Known Member

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    Good job, Fletch. The bastardized Hellwig hardware is holding up OK for me so far. Those nylon lock nuts (and the correct number to do all connections!) should have come with the kit. But I love having the bar. Go shred some corners.
     
  7. Apr 30, 2012 at 5:32 PM
    #27
    Rich91710

    Rich91710 Well-Known Member

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    What did you get? My kit was pretty straightforward.
    I had 8 centerpunched locknuts... 4 for the housing and 4 for the brackets... 2 nylock, and 4 regular nuts.

    The instructions show 2 different arrangements for the bar end, the correct arrangement for the 2WD kit is to use the long bolt, spacer tube, and the Nylock nuts.
    The other arrangement uses the 4 regular nuts above the bar (1 each side as a "jam nut") and 2 Nylock on the bottom.
     
  8. May 4, 2012 at 7:44 PM
    #28
    fletch aka

    fletch aka www.BeLikeBrit.org

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    No nylock with my kit at all, 8 center lock and the balance standard sae. I had planned on using grade 8 and swapping out but I want to talk with a suspension guy (brother) on grade vs grade 5, I started thinking the fasteners may need to flex more then grade 8 would allow. I will update after I talk to him.
     
  9. May 4, 2012 at 8:11 PM
    #29
    Rich91710

    Rich91710 Well-Known Member

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    You've got the TRD offroad so the Nylock may not be appropriate for your attachment links.

    Mine is a 2wd 5-lug and is a different kit.

    Mine assembled like this:

    hellwig.jpg

    Some models don't use the tube. They bolt solidly to the angle adapter at the top, and use regular nuts (2 top and IIRC, 2 bottom) arranged as "jam nuts" to secure the bushings to the bar.
     
  10. May 4, 2012 at 8:14 PM
    #30
    Rich91710

    Rich91710 Well-Known Member

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    Edit...

    Went back to the beginning of the thread and I see that yours assembles the same way.
     
  11. May 5, 2014 at 6:35 AM
    #31
    Lurkin

    Lurkin Well-Known Member

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    Yes, I know, reviving the dead here....

    I just installed the HELLwig (caps intended :) this weekend. Was glad that this thread existed as HELLwig's instructions (as documented by the previous posters) were WORTHLESS.

    The pics and tips posted were quite helpful. I did as someone else recommended, I installed the bar and diff brackets first, then put the frame brackets on, then the end link extensions. Initially I just used all the non-lock nuts for the setup and only single nutted everything.

    After I had everything situated I tightened everything down, then went back and decided to put the lock nuts on the the end link connections. At that point I could only get the bottom link end to tighten up. The top end link threads went into the nut just to the top of nut then all turning happened on the lower nut.

    Wondering how y'awl got the lock nuts on the end links to both turn?? Since the end link is threaded on both ends, I can't hold the link in order to tighten down both ends. Thoughts?

    I though about removing the Zbar and the end link to tighten the top in some, also thought about double nutting the bottom nut in order to hold the end link so that the top could be turned.
     
  12. May 5, 2014 at 10:04 AM
    #32
    mbrogz3000

    mbrogz3000 Well-Known Member

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    Typically you can't turn 2 nuts against one other at the same time, otherwise you'll strip the threading if your able to muscle or air-wrench through it. Tighten down the regular nuts first as tight as possible, then tighten the lock nut to the regular nut. Thats basically it. The nuts and bolts have poor corrosion resistence, so after one winter, they'll be permanently torqued just like mine.

    If I remember correctly, the end links are actually assembled from the top down, so as long as you tighten the bottom nuts enough, you'll effectively be tightening the complete assembly and won't need to worry about the top nut(s).
     
    Last edited: May 5, 2014
  13. May 5, 2014 at 10:16 AM
    #33
    Lurkin

    Lurkin Well-Known Member

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    Thanks for the input, but on the end links I replaced the non-locks, with the locks after it was all together. As for air tools, have them, but can't get to the top ones without removing the link, and it's the top nut that doesn't want to turn in any more. With a lock nut on each end, whichever one has least resistance turns and the other just holds, for me, top one holds, bottom one turns. I may just disassemble the end link, pull the sleeve off and hold it with vice grips to get some turns on the top nut.
     
  14. May 5, 2014 at 10:26 AM
    #34
    inesshell

    inesshell blah blah blah

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    yes, any sports car ive ever owned, ive always upgraded the sway bars and end links....best handling mod for its price.
     
  15. May 5, 2014 at 10:39 AM
    #35
    bldegle2

    bldegle2 OldPhart

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    New Navigation DVD/CD/TV/AV/Bluetooth Stereo and seat mod spacers, 1" hubcentric spacers, seat heaters....
    get the grade 8, a grade 5 snapped on one side (the end link long attachment bolt) on mine 2 years back...not much of a problem except the broken bolt went flying out the rear and hammered one of my trailer tires, causing it to shread with the explosion....

    and changing the tire was a biatch, trailer was fully loaded, thankfully, I travel with a lightweight floor jack and was able to get the sucker under the axle, did not want to unload trailer at all costs....

    I agree, adding the sway bar to the rear certainly keeps the truck stable and relatively flat in a corner....
     
  16. May 5, 2014 at 4:29 PM
    #36
    Lord Helmet

    Lord Helmet Prepare To Attack

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    That's where I bought mine. Fast shipper too! Have had it on for about a year now. Love it. The pics in the instructions where more helpful then the actual written instructions. I plan to get the front one soon.

    I also added the double nut for the end links. Here's my pics:

    Sway bar1.jpg
    Sway bar2.jpg
    Sway bar3.jpg
     
  17. May 6, 2014 at 5:18 AM
    #37
    Lurkin

    Lurkin Well-Known Member

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    From your pics (helpful btw, thanks) it looks like you have the double nuts on the endlink bottom and singles on the top. Of those, which are regular, and which are lock nuts? Just curious.

    For all others, I could use some input on which would be better for this application, nylocks or deformed nuts?
     
  18. May 6, 2014 at 5:46 AM
    #38
    ramonortiz55

    ramonortiz55 Not A Well-Known Member

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    I want this
     
  19. May 6, 2014 at 10:35 AM
    #39
    Lord Helmet

    Lord Helmet Prepare To Attack

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    No problem. I have the nylons nut on the top and for the two doubles, they are regular nuts tighten together to prevent from loosen up from vibrations. I've have had then on for about a year now and I haven't had any issue or need to retighten then either. I went off roading (Nothing major just 2-3 inches of sand before solid bottom) a couple months back and no issues either.
     
  20. May 6, 2014 at 12:20 PM
    #40
    Lurkin

    Lurkin Well-Known Member

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    You added nylocks, or you are using the deformed locknuts that hellwig sends?
     

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