abs light frustration

Thanks Sky,
What is an isolator and where do I get one? Anybody?

 

I just thought of this: The trailer harness has never been used. I have not hooked up my trailer yet.

How can the computer detect that a wire has been tapped into if there is no current going through it? If I had a trailer hooked up, I can see how that could change the voltage, but otherwise, is this still a possibility?

 

Yes, computer sends low voltage into brake line to make sure there is constant loop. So if you tapped wrong computer either sees more voltage or less voltage. Or when you press brake there is more or less voltage. Once detected you get code (your code) so its definitely harness tapped wrong if system detects it with out trailer connected.

 

I don't see how you can tap it wrong. It's just one red wire from the harness that goes to the stop light wire. I'll get a picture of it on here when I have time. Maybe it is easier to get wrong than I think.
How could the voltage change?

Disconnecting the wire should diagnose it, right?
If the problem goes away after disconnect, then obviously that was the problem.

 

All two bulb setups (signals and stop lights) have to have a converter because the trailer lights only have one bulb. One wire won't do it it needs to deal with both sides.

 

Here are some pics of the install. Here is what think I have learned so far. The 2011 tacoma is very voltage sensitive to hitch installations. I was told that a powered connection won't trigger the voltage issues. However, I was recommended one by etrailer that is not powered and talked to them and they said no issues with their unit.
Link: http://www.etrailer.com/Custom-Fit-Vehicle-Wiring/Toyota/Tacoma/2011/118496.html?vehicleid=20117326

I don't mind buying something if it will work, but I don't see why this one is any different than what I have.
Here is the unit:


Here is the connection on the back of the taillight:


and here is a closeup:


I have called around and the only people that have any idea about this problem are on this board. From manufacturers to dealers to installers--nobody knows.

Does it make sense to disconnect the red wire that goes to the stoplight as a test? What about disconnecting the whole thing as a test?
Am I right that 5 wires from the truck have to connect to 4 wires in the hitch. Could that be the potential problem? Can non-powered converters be different from one another as far as voltage sensitivity?
If this is such a major design flaw, why aren't there more threads about this? Has anyone actually had to correct this on their own truck?

I still don't know how to pull the dash to access the seatbelt chime and I still don't know how test the abs system except skid in the rain and see what happens, that is if it rains again here.

I never had one problem with my other toyotas and I am frustrated.
Thanks again for any and all help.

 

Did you ever fix this problem? I have the exact same problem

 

My check engine light came on this week but no ABS so i did a scan and have this code.
I also have all led lights and nothing stock on the rear lol
Will messing with the wiring for the brake/turn signals set off this code?

 

Mine ended up being the brake light switch above the pedal. Swapped it out and no more BS