Skid Plates - Who and What: for less corrosive than steel??

Who did you talk to?

 

SS and AL react with one another , no ?

 

only in the presence of salt and water.

 

touche my friend

touche indeed

 

If you want to spend big bucks on skids get a shop to custom make them out of stainless tube framing and HDPE then call it a day. End of story.


If your on a budget stick with steel. I don't know why you think it won't last long or what your thinking, but if you never scratch it and it's painted it won't rust.

You also can't just install skids and be done with them for the life of the truck. You will need to service your front diff, front DS CV's, transmission, transfer case, etc so you should be dropping your skids on a regular basis.

Regarding aluminum and stainless steel - the transfer case skid will take as much abuse if not more then the IFS from high siding so aluminum in that area is a joke unless it has substantial framing to back it up and if that's the case don't even use any metal. Frame it and use and HDPE.....

 

Im running 1/4" T6065 aluminum skid plates. Front and trans weighed in under 40lb


See 4:00
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Q3K1WfWi85s&feature=player_embedded#t=238s

 

Boyd is right, although Most plastic skids are UNMW, not HDPE. I take my skids on and off constantly. It is nothing to throw a quick coat of paint over the scratches. The aluminum is nice, but it does tend to "stick" while trying to slide over obstacles quite a bit(so I have read, the guy above may have some personal insight in to that), hence the move to UHMW plastic.

 

You put them through the paces yet? I remember you also added in some HD bracing.

I saw Craig's skids yesterday in person and his transmission skid is wrinkled/warped like crazy and they were only used once Mine look much better after 2 years of use and aren't bent at all.

 

If you would have seen the beating that truck took at Rausch, you would understand why they look like that. It was painful to watch...The noise still haunts me.

 

I posted a vid up there. They've been smacked quite a few times

 

I saw the damage afterwords and was amazed. I couldn't imagine being there.

Poor truck 'was' perfect and he wouldn't even get it dirty for at least 2 years... Hell he would ride shotgun with me at meets. Now within a 1/2 year it has surpassed any damage my baby has received in the prior 4 years of abuse. I think I had something to do with it... maybe shouldn't take guys with nice trucks wheeling with me. Seems many of them end up blowing shit up or wrecking their trucks. Maybe I'm good luck for Toyota parts sales

Some have even sold them after wheeling with me (BC meet)

 

I'll wheel with you any time, as long as it is not deep mud/water. I aint skeered.

 

Your only saying that because 99% of the time I wheel in deep mud/water


Touche...

 

We are coming out with a new version of our IFS skid as an addition to our All-Pro Expedition (APEX) line of products. It will be made from ASTM A572 Grade 50 Steel Plate. This material has an excellent strength to weight ratio with a much higher yield strength (about 30%), while being 25% lighter in weight when compared to the 1/4" HRPO offerings. Therefore, you get a reduction in weight with added strength, plus more corrosion resistance.

We already have the FJ Cruiser version available.

 

Damn, busted.

I have actually been thinking about trying kayaking. Might take a little trip on the BRandywine this summer.

 

I saw the price of steel drums were selling at $40, and a stainless steel drum was selling for $400. SS costs quite a bit more than steel, it seems.
Aluminum IS lighter, but costs more, can be more prone to cracking, and does rust, especially when mag-chloride is sprayed on the roads.
Titanium is very tough, and resists rust very well, but costs way more than SS.
BudBuilts are 3/16 steel and cost about $950 for the entire underbody. Coat it with paint, and touch-up once a year. Probably will last longer than the rusting frame rails...