Dull truck

Do you guys all have a TRD Off Road? I think the fenders and front bumper are intentionally painted "dull"...

 

For the most part he is imparting some good information to viewers who do not understanding polishing. But he blows the dangers of using a Flex 3401 out of proportion as it's a pretty stinking safe machine to use. Someone would have to have gross neglect to ruin paint with one. He also underrates the dangers of a porter cable. You edge it out or run it like he did on the hood on an edge and I guarantee you will ruin your paint.

Something else that bothers me is his suggesting that a porter cable does not remove paint and saying the flex and makita do. There are 2 ways to improve the looks of scratches. You can fill them(think glaze) or you can level the clearcoat and remove them. Using m85 or m105/ect and a yellow pad will correct paint, not fill it. Where there is no need to be scared you will remove all the clear using a porter cable, it does remove paint. It just removes a very small amount. The exact same thing can be said of a rotary or a flex DA. Him saying that there is no blue paint on the pad indicating that it did not remove paint is outright inaccurate as "paint" includes clear coat, which as the name indicates, is clear.

Bottom line, a porter cable random orbital is a safe tool to learn with as long as a novice takes it easy. But it is possible to ruin paint with one too. It's not like someone can shut their brain off when using one. I use a lot of caution every time I pick up a porter cable random orbital polisher and I use all 3 of those tools a lot.

*oh yeah...
built-in clutch on a porter cable? No. The fact that the wheel spins freely is what makes the pc safer than the others. And the flex machine is a random orbital polisher, the flex is a mechanical dual action.

And the most aggressive pad known across the detailing industry is a wool pad, not yellow foam.

 

Use some M105 with a DA on a medium aggressive pad

 

My old taco was super white. I heard Toyota does not put a clear coat on the white ones... I hated keeping it shiny it never was after the first year or so. That's why my 10' is SSM! I'd actually use a mr clean magic eraser on my bumper and flares to get them white again.

 

I use menzerna polishes, and euroshine pads on a flex 3401 using a meguiar's DA polisher you don't really have to worry about burning through your paint as you really need to try to do any damage with a DA. Also make sure when you polish you move slow, i think like an inch a second.

 

As one of the other members mentioned, the Super White is single stage. Does anyone here have a 4 or 5 year old Super White that still has that showroom shine? I would think if you keep up on regular waxings etc it would hold up.

 

I know this guy and have communicated many times with him on detailing. He knows his stuff! I changed a lot about how I clean my cars after speaking with him. email him, he usually responds...great guy.

 

I've used most of the products from Griots garage and works awesome! This guy in the video knows his stuff. I've talked to him on several diff forums.

 

I have a super white taco with oxidized bedsides. I tried compounding with my hands and it wasn't working. My hood, on the other hand came out pretty good. There's still oxidation but not as much. I ordered the PC

$139 7424xp PORTER-CABLE Car Polisher and Buffer, 6", Orbital, Variable Speed (7424XP)

7424xp through a local company that carries chemical guy's supplies. I'll let you know how it goes when my shipment arrives.

 

I know when I bought my Porter Cable DA it was the exact same polisher. It was confirmed by the guys at Meguires, it was just a different color.

I don't know if it still is though.

 

Meg's is not as good as it used to be. I'd look for Mothers professional line.

check out ammonyc.com , he has a lot of useful info. google or youtube will get you a ton of info since I'm too tired to type right now.

 

Single stage? All Toyota Tacoma's have 2 stage paint.

single stage paint:
consists of two coats of colored paint and does not have a clear-coat applied. Used primarily on older vehicles and still used on occasion on newer vehicles.

2-Stage Paint is what new cars painted since the late 1980s. They have a base coat with the color applied before a layers of clear coat are added to protect the color and give you a long lasting finish for years of service. It is, of course, applied in layers with several dry times and is labor intensive.

Single Stage has the gloss and the color mixed together and applied to the car as a unit. This is the way all cars were painted until the 1980s. If you have a classic car looking for that classic look, it really is a must-have. It is a hard and lasting finish that looks great with a smaller price tag.

 

Guess again. Super White is single stage.

 

I stand corrected.

 

I have super white, 5 years old and in perfect condition.

It's never been run through a car wash, ever. That's probably most important thing, as just 1 run-through will cover your vehicle completely with micro-scratches. Of course it just gets worse & worse the more frequently you do this.

Better to just never clean your vehicle than run it though a car wash.

Within a few days of buying my truck new, I washed, clay barred and waxed. The overspray from the paint process will actually make your brand new paint feel rough to the touch. Clay bar will make it perfectly smooth, and will make waxing far easier.

Since then I hand wash & wax every few months, clay bar again every year or 2 depending. Once you get familiar with claying, you can tell if it needs it just by running your finger over a clean painted surface. If it feels just a bit rough, hit it with the clay bar again before waxing. Despite what I've seen a few people here say, you will absolutely not scratch your paint with a clay bar - unless it has sand or grit on it. If it falls to the ground, throw it in the trash.

If you do all this from new your paint will last many years looking better than new (remember the new-car overspray thing).

To the OP, sounds like you need a much more involved paint correction process than this. Generally, that involves trial & error to get the right compound abrasion level and pads for your level of damage, then polishing, final cleaning, then protective coat (sealer or wax). You need the right tools and knowledge (forget doing it by hand). Either hire a pro to do it, or research the job and buy the equipment and products to DIY.

Stay far away from internet forums like this one for good info. There's some good stuff here, but there is also a ton of incredibly bad info that will at best waste your time & money, and at worst damage your car beyond repair short of re-paining. Try a dedicated place like detailersdomain.com, and read up. They have lot's of good examples of cars that have been professionally detailed, with correct steps, products, pictures, etc.

 

My 08' is horrible. Granted I have never waxed the entire truck and it routinely gets driven down 4' wide trails that scratch the crap out of it, but the roof and hood have started to grow mold/fungi the paint is so poor.

Think my clear coat was scratched away on year 2 of ownership.

I now call my trucks color "matte white"