P1135 Sensor - Is this it? Denso 2349001

The check engine light came on my 2002 Tacoma Double Cab PreRunner SR5, V6. I confirmed the code here and also the replacement part number which is Denso 234-9001.

I just opened the hood and got under the truck. There are two cats. I found what I believe is the right sensor in FRONT of the first cat. However, since I'm a Private Investigator and not a mechanic, figured I'd make sure by snapping a pic and asking here. The wiring on this sensor is maybe 6" to 8" long give or take. Haven't quite figured out how to unclip it. It's tied off to a part of the engine/frame etc and I didn't have the truck jacked up.
Tight quarters and big mits looks like the harness clip will be the biggest pain in the ass.

So is the attached pic the right part or am I all wet lol ?

Anyone have a step-by-step procedure for this repair? I have a tendency to make small repairs into bigger ones and would prefer to keep this simple. I found the part on Rockauto for $106.14 shipped.

DENSO Part # 2349001 {#8946734021, 8946735060} Includes Gasket OE Style
DENSO is the O.E. Manufacturer / Air Fuel Ratio Sensor; Upstream; Automatic trans.

Thanks for any/all input.

 

How many times do you want to hear this in how many separate threads?

Not quite two weeks ago:

http://www.tacomaworld.com/forum/1st-gen-tacomas/233085-clean-dirty-afr-code-p1135.html

andthe same day....

http://www.tacomaworld.com/forum/1st-gen-tacomas/200081-p1135-error-code-where-buy-part-2.html

six days ago (right, you didn't post in that one so you probably didn't look at it even though it's related to your problem..):

bad idle just changed O2

Quit repeating yourself and just buy the thing already....and go buy stainless steel 8x1.25mm metric nuts, and get some lockwashers (don't have to be stainless, not much in stainless for lockwashers) while you are at it. Antiseize too.

As for how to put it in, read a bit here. I didn't take any pictures since cameras and filty rusty recalcitrant nuts don't go together in my world. http://www.tacomaworld.com/forum/1st-gen-tacomas/138573-what-have-you-done-your-tacoma-today-1st-gen-edition-1001.html#post5509879 Jacking it up probably won't help, is certainly not needed. Take a pair of pliers to the "nose" of the plastic clip poking through the metal bracket and squeeze it so you can get the connector off the bracket (unless you want to try removing a steel bolt from an aluminum transmission housing) and you can then get your hands on the connector. You also need to use a screwdriver to release the locking clip on the connector.

Looks like you forgot to use the TW discount code rockauto discount code thread and how to use it in figuring your rockauto shipped price (or you wanted it shipped fast after waiting nearly two weeks without ordering one...) but they don't seem to have updated the one that expired 8/15 - so here's one good to 9/23 104567506696274

 

and again, go ahead and get a front and rear o2 sensor.

I HAD A STROKE AND A BRAIN ANEURYSM, SHORT TERM MEMORY LOSS ISSUES AND BROKE BOTH BONES MY RIGHT LEG 3 YEARS AGO,

but I took my time and replaced both within one hour.

these sensors dont last forever. the longer you neglect them even the rear one the more damage you can do to your cats.

lets see spend 100 or so dollars every 100,000-125,000 miles or lets see how long until my cats are molten slugs?

 

Step by step.

Unhook the negative cable or pull the EFI and OBD fuses (20 & 7.5A) in the underhood fuse box.

Deploy creeper or a sheet of cardboard - slide under truck.

Remove nuts, which you have been drenching in your penetrant of choice for weeks by now, if you were paying attention. From now until you part comes, anyway. Yours look in nice shape, you might be able to use wrench on them. 13mm, I think. Or 12.

Squeeze the tab on the connector as described above. get the connector down where you can see it and push a screwdriver in the slot to release the tab so you can unplug it. Look at the new connector if that's not obvious. Unplug it. Pay attention to how the wire is routed - you don't want to put the wire in any old way, so that the wire ends up melted by hot exhaust.

Remove the old sensor. Remove the old gasket. Make sure the gasket surface is clean.

Put on new gasket. Do NOT touch the tip of the new sensor, or let it touch anything. Put it in place.

put some anti-seize on the studs. put your new lockwasher on the stud, followed by your new stainless steel nut. Get both sides hand tight. Run the wire where the old wire went, (unless it was melted, indicating that someone did it wrong before) and plug it in, making sure it's all the way in and latched. Push the nose of the plastic bit through the hole in the steel bracket to put the connector back in place.

Tighten the nuts. Torque spec is in the FSM, the FSM is linked to in one of the stickies. It's not terribly high. 14 foot-pounds.

Optional but strongly recommended - clean the MAF sensor. Carefully. Don't break it, and if you tend to break things, don't bother with it.

Crawl out, put the fuses in, start the truck.

And then you mail that picture to the exhaust pipe the sensor is actually married to, and collect your pay 8-O

 

This is what I used when I replaced both of my sensors. Pretty simple
http://www.lieblweb.com/o2replacement.html

 

Will this work for an automatic transmission as far as accessing the sensor connector from the inside?

 

I can't imagine that it would be worth doing, since popping the clip nose out takes about 30 seconds once you know that's what you are doing. Thus, I spare you the 15 minutes I spent swearing at whoever designed that piece of torture apparatus while I was trying to get the screwdriver in the slot I couldn't see and two hands on the connector all at the same time, and failing since there was no space to do that. I think the M/T unit is also really ON TOP of the transmission (at least it has been reported to have a longer cable, and I think that was why) while the A/T unit is on the side - as such, top access to the A/T unit might be no better, after you've wasted all that time taking the console apart...

 

The connector for the second sensor is under the passenger seat. You will need to remove the trim (bottom trim held by 3 screws) then lift the carpet back a bit. That is where the connector is at

 

I have changed the front sensor on an 03 manual and an 04 automatic and Ecnerwal is correct for those two model years. The manual connector is on top of the gear box and the automatic is on the right side of the trans, accessed from underneath the vehicle. I don't know about other years.

 

http://www.tacomaworld.com/forum/1st-gen-tacomas/194366-how-replace-o2-sensors.html

Step by step, holding your hand, with pictures to help

 

Yup. Ecnerwal is right. Had a chance to look under my vehicle last night and saw where it was located. Also drenched the hell out of the bolts with some PB Blaster. Looks simple enough to accomplish. Package should be arriving tomorrow.

 

Remember to put anti seize on those studs before putting the nuts back on.

 

should take 20 minutes or less to change this out. And posted directly above use anti-sieze when reinstalling the two bolts. DO not break those two studs as they are welded into the sensor bung.

 

Was able to get this bad boy installed with no problems in a half hour. Followed your instructions that were made simple. Thanks again for this post! CEL is gonzo!!

 

Thanks for the replies and patience. Been out of town for a few days and just returned and now dealing with an impending hurricane. OH JOY. Once that's out of the way, this will be done.

 

disclaimer: i drive a 4Runner, but we share some parts and experiences. I posted the same message on a 4Runner forum.

yes, I have the right part for my truck "

$145 Denso 234-9001 Upstream Air Fuel Ratio Oxygen Sensor with 10.6” 4-Wire Harness, for Auto Trans Equipped Vehicles

Denso 234-9001" (2000 4Runner 3.4 L V6 Cali emissions, manual tranny)

yes, I unscrewed the two bolts and the sensor came out without any fuss.

NO, I can't disconnect the silly electrical connector located on top of the tranny!

I know I should use a small flat head screwdriver to push the lock/latch, but without seeing the connector I just don't know how. yes, I can "see it" with my fingers but I have no clue how it latches.

Is there any image available, or description of the bloody thing so I can figure out where to place the tip of screwdriver?

Thank you in advance for your time and help!

 

Anyone ever have this cause a high idle? Of surging if idle while in neutral? Truck drives fine but idling like crazy after it heats up. Thanks!