What are some good components on a budget?

I have a 06 Tacoma access cab. I'm no longer running a stock head unit. I have a Premier head unit can't remember the model right now. What are some Clear ,detailed sounding components on a budget. While i would love to go spend $300.00 or $400.00 on a set but it's not going to happen having a little one. I need something a little more pocket friendly.

I've been eyeing the Infinity reference series,Alpine S series and the Kicker KS series i believe,jl audio maybe. Any one heard these? I also noticed the Focal brand on Crutchfield which i've never heard of. Any input on these or other recommended brands would be appreciated. Can i even get good clean detailed sound in this price range? I'm not looking for LOUD my head unit is loud enough. I'm not looking for a harsh over powering tweeter either. I like the sound of a silk tweeter personally. Maybe this helps give a better idea of what i'm looking for.

I have not had the chance to hear any of them. All i have pretty close to home is a Best Buy and the don't have much of anything to listen to. I would like to run around one weekend when i get more time and check out some stereo shops across town since the BB just doesn't have a selection.

 

I just ordered a set of Image Dynamics CTX65CS and they came with the *********.com speaker mounts tweeters and midrange, which supposedly allow larger depth speakers??

I have read great things about the CTX65CS and for $182 + shipping I am giving them a try. I hope to install them this Saturday. I have read mixed reviews regarding www.*********.com but I'm willing to give them a shot since they have the speaker mounts as well.

I'll give you an update if you'd like?

 

I'm not familiar with Image Dynamics. The price isn't bad. Let me know how they sound once you get them installed.

 

IMO you should look for some good coaxials if you want more bang for your buck, with a decent set of components you will be underpowering them without using an amp.

 

I don't disagree...I'm going to be using the

$290 Alpine KTP-445U Universal Power Pack

Alpine KTP-445U which is 45W RMS x 4, but I am keeping the factory head unit.

 

Not necessarily, check the specs on the speakers/components you're interested in. There are comonents that are either as efficient or more efficient then coaxials. Keep in mind that the difference between the two is basically some circuitry on the crossovers. They both have 2 speakers to power, just that the coaxes have the tweet mounted within the woofer.

 

Ya this is true, ive notice alot of components will say for example 10-85 rms, so someone might think my head unit is 20rms so these should work fine, but really they will be underpowred, you should shoot for max rms. I dont have to much knowledge or experience so dont hold me to it.
I bought a real nice headunit and ran my components (boston acoustic sr-60) of off just the head unit for a few days before i installed my amp and they sounded like shit. I also ran the stock shitty coaxials off of the same headunit for a day and they sounded better than the underpowered components. After i finished installing my amp it sounded great, my components are actually overpowered but with the gain not maxxed out they sound awesome.
What you are saying about the differences between coaxials and components is definatley true, but in general, most components need more power to be used to their full potential and there is alot more coaxials that are designed to be powered by a head unit and not a higher powered amp.

 

Just to be clear, I am talking about checking the Efficiency rating on the speakers, not the power range. Power range is not nearly as useful for this as efficiency.

 

^ok, so in this situation without an amplifier, are you saying a set of high sensitivity components would do well, maybe better than coaxials even with the lack of power? I still have alot to learn when it comes to this stuff, i am just trying to help out the OP with my personal experieces with the couple of sound systems i have had.

 

Yup, your points are valid, but the reality is that comps vs. non-comps without an amp is not a rule, guideline only. You do have to be smart about it though.

 

I do plan on running a amp if i get components or high wattage coaxials. I saw Fosgate makes i nice amp that would fit under my driver seat for about $229.00 I'm just going to have to buy one piece at a time. My wife also rolls her eyes and pretends to not hear me when i talk about upgrading my truck speakers.She beats me guys you gotta help me.

The only real problem i have with running Coaxials is having the two sets of tweeters up front in my doors. Although i could save money since they are cheaper and i might get by without a amp depending on which ones i get.

Light bulb!!! I'll just get a set of speakers or amp for christmas if i don't have it all by then.

 

I wouldn't get coaxial's if you're going to use an amp.

 

Lol^if you plan on getting an amp in the future then definitely get components. Get rid of that whole stock system! Your access cab has rear speakers in the doors right? I wish mine did, my 09 access cab has stupid little speakers in the headliner.
I really like rockford fosgate, i have their 8 inch shallow mount punch sub in my access cab. If you have a amp picked out it might help you decide which speakers you should get, so what amp are you looking at? The info in lurkins post should be helpful, if you can find a high efficiency speaker it will work well with your headunit and sound even better when you install a amp. Look in the specs section of the speakers for something with high sensitivity, which from what i understand is closely related to the speakers efficiency. Are you going to get new rear speakers also? Do you want some more bass, maybe aftermarket 6x9s then. Cruthfields might say they dont fit because they dont have the adapter but ********* does i think. I went with 6 3/4 in the front and im planning on cutting the door panels in the rear to add some rear fill.

 

hybrid are a good brand that is affordable and in your range area. jl comp are another good set

 

where can you buy Hybrids at? Ive been to 4 local shops and none of them have them.

EDIT: And I don't really want to buy speakers until I've heard them in person.

 

I installed the Image Dynamics CTX65CS in the front doors and CTX65 in the rear doors. They are hooked up to an

$290 Alpine KTP-445U Universal Power Pack

Alpine KTP-445U amp. I also installed a Kicker 11PT8 powered sub behind the driver's side passenger seat. It fits perfect with the small piece of storage molding removed.

The Image Dynamics sound clear and the highs are great as well at the mid-range. The Kicker sub fills in the lows. Very good sounding system for the money. I am not looking to shake the car beside me at the stop light, but this setup does rattle the rear-view mirror when turned up to half power.

This is my two cents and I know it is just an opinion, but I hope you find it somewhat helpful.

 

I wanted to make a few clarifications to this thread to clear things up.

The idea that it's ok to run coaxials on headunit power but you shouldn't run components on headunit power is a farce. (IE: Not at all true). A coaxial speaker is essentially a component speaker with the tweeter mounted to the center pole piece and the tweeter crossover/capacitor mounted to the whole assembly. The only real difference is that components have the tweeter separate and the woofer also has a crossover. I believe most coaxial units run the woofer section full range.

So what's the deciding factor on amp vs no amp?
In one word: efficiency. Most people don't really understand power at all. RMS power ratings is defined as how much power can the speaker handle long term (hour+) before it smokes. Let's say your amp or headunit makes 20watts RMS. You'll only get 20 watts with the volume knob cranked way to the right. Let's say you only have the volume on 1 or very very low. Any idea how much power you're sending to the speakers? 1 watt or maybe even less....true story

It's actually quite simple. Send a speaker more power and it plays louder. You can't send a speaker too little power. If you want X decibels you'll need to send the speaker X number of watts. It's that easy.

The only way you'll EVER blow a speaker by giving it less power than it's RMS rating is by giving it a dirty CLIPPED signal. If you want to know what that is please read this post I've written that's pasted below from another thread. (I'm kinda getting sick of rewriting it lol)

 

So getting back to the original thread topic (now that we've gotten that worked out)....what's the budget? Can we get a price cap?

 

I've heard from many that these were quite nice sounding. Especially for the price.
http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_12224_Pioneer-TS-D1720C.html

 

op, did you buy?