Anyone local good with a welder?

last time i check your pink slider is gonna be glued on

 

Wait.

 

Just going to take a shot at this and see how far it goes I have limited experience and I am drawing from my time fixing broken torsion bar caps on tanks. Plenty of expierince backing those out with a vice grip after you backed out the broken bolt enough to get a grip.

If the bolt went in to a hole that had a open back (nut applied to the back side), then you could drill it out with a normal bit with a clockwise rotation. You would be forcing it through the hole if you will. If you have anything that would block the bolt coming out (caps on either side, or a external mouting bracket) you would have to remove that first.

If the threaded hole was closed (no nut on the backside of the bolt, just tighten the bolt in to a existing threaded hole) using a normal bit would be bad. High speed bit even worse as you will basically apply heat and "weld" the broken bolt into the threads as it has no place to go and you drive it in deeper.

From this crowd, I fully expect a lot of sexual inuendos from my comments. So be be prepared to deal with that

It would really help if you posted a pic of the bolt you are trying to remove though

 

Weld is usually softer then the metal it's being welded to.I think if you try to weld unto a bolt that's inside the frame you'll just end up snapping it off when you try to turn it out.I would suggest using a small diameter bit at first instead of one the size of the bolt and create a pilot hole then gradually work your way up until you can remove most of the bolt.They sell screw extractors that are self threading and pretty cheap.One trick I would try is taking a can of compressed air that they use to clean computers and after you have the screw extractor installed turn the compressed air can upside down and freeze the bolt before turning it out.Or a plasma torch cuts through just about anything and you can always weld a nut over the hole.

 

Fuck... Too many different methods to remove bolts and too many do's and dont's which seem to contradict each other. I've heard that if you weld a nut to it it basically heats up the bolt and frees it if it's rusted from the threads and the fact it contracts quickly makes it easier to free up. Another source is saying that the weld would be softer and it would probably break... what to do.. I really just want to make new threads for a bolt to go through by any means necessary.

I think I'll take a picture of this in the AM so you can ASSess the issue... lol.

 

post a pic..i live in concord and consider myself a bit of a lucky mofo when it comes to removing broken fasteners.

i call my friend "cross-thread"

there is already a snapped drill bit in the broken shaft?

 

Basically. Let me take a ppicture of it. I totally forgot to take a picture whwn i said i would.

 

I haven't even been able to take a picture of it. I ran into a thread randomly where someone used the same kind of remover bit I did, brand: Grabit and had the same kind of luck I did (the POS broke off inside and every attempt to create a hole has now been hindered by the same POS bit that was supposed to be the cure in the first place) surprisingly enough he took a picture and my hole looks almost exactly like his antenna hole.



Someone suggested using the carbide burr attachment on the dremel or one on a regular drill. They are made of tungsten after all which is hard as shit, so it should work in theory. Does anyone think this would work in removing all that metal out of there? I was also thinking the diamond cutting bit attachment on the dremel may work too.

Any opinions on these attachments for the removal of the material from the broken bolt and broken POS grabit bit?

 

Bump for this. I'd like to tackle this issue again but I need the help of someone who owns a welder first. Pic has provided of what the damage looks like. I honestly need the good ol washer and nut technique to save me out of this one.

Anyone local? If we can get it out you are my hero and I'll buy you lunch