HELP asap with LR UCAs

I actually drove home and went to about 100 and it felt great, but maybe because before the lift it was worse. Who knows. I will get it fixed

 

k cool. Thanks. I didnt think it was this complicated to be honest

 

It means according to his machine it was out of spec. A lot of guys push their caster up high to stabilize the steering. I cannot see how it hurts to have caster up around 3 unless it leads to rubbing on the rear side of the fender. If you get your caster over 2 your steering will for sure be good. Your Camber would ideally be 0, but .4 is not brutal. Your toe is also not that bad either.

 

Where did you have it done? For future reference so I don't take mine there. Hope you can find a shop that will do it right. The only shop around the city I have even taken my truck to is oregans Toyota on baker drive. I know it's a stealership but they have treated me pretty good in the past.

 

Would having the caster around 0 make the steering pull one way or the other? I have 3 inches of lift in the front, shop told me my tie rod was "bottomed out" which is bogus, they are brand new tie rods, inner and outer... Maybe the caster is why?

 

Thats where Im gonna go now, but I went to miller tire in burnside.

 

Good luck at oregans. Let me know how you make out. And where's the pictures of the truck with the lift in it!?

 

I should be in dartmouth crossing with my broad in a little while, but wont have time to stop in I dont think. I will take pics soon

 

I have about the same setup as you with the LR UCAs and mine is getting aligned right now, they looked at me a little funny when I explained the parts and what I wanted, and said they would try, but it would depend on how it looked when they got it on the machine... I asked for 3, 0, 0 and they said that toe should not always be exactly 0 for steering stability, but I told them to get it there, and they said ok. Very nervous about how close they are going to get. Only time will tell.

I did a redneck alignment and got the camber close with the upper adjustment and put my eccentrics to the neutral position all around, and it drives pretty good, and the UCAz are set at +2

 

A tiny amount of negative toe isn't bad as the force of driving will push it be 0 when actually moving. Toe is also the one thing that is adjusted every time I have an alignment done. First thing that gets out of spec. I get alignments about once every 6 months since I have 3 yr alignment. Gonna get more than my moneys worth out of it.

 

I replace the UCAs with LR UCAs and set them at +2 deg, and I also replaced both of my LCAs with newer stock ones. I did a redneck camber alignment using the top LR UCA ball joints and let them take care of Toe and fine adjustments on the rest.

I just got mine back this is the PRE:


and the POST:



Not really an issue, but saw that one of my eccentrics was maxed out, Front Camber on the passenger side is maxed out, but the specs look great, and it rides fine so I am not going to worry about it.



LR UCA on that side:

 

thats good, that gives you the best clearance. Thats how it was described to me to do as well and the guy did it and worked

 

The top nut on the UCA's all the way OUT would provide the most clearance from the UCA , no ?

 

Ya but then you can't align it right I thought? That's what that long post that was linked here said, and I did it and it moved my wheel 5/8" ahead and didn't rub anymore untill the 285s were put on. He maxed out the caster on the bottom, then fixed it and camber with the top adjustment. Got me where I wanted

 

are teh fins on your cv boot rubbing? they look close.

 

Cut the small clamp off, reposition the boot so the segments are spread a bit more and put on a good quality screw clamp. Should be good to go then.

 

Yeah I saw that thread that NetMonkey made about that. Seems to be holding up well, but I haven't seen any updates in a while.

 

I thought we were talking about the camber adjustment available at the top nut