2nd gen Rear Axle Bearing DIY

So...

If you have the need to replace your rear wheel bearings... heres a few things I've learned.

There's not much out there aside from a write up on TTORA for 1st gens. My write up isn't exactly thorough but I think it's enough to help out the more mechanically inclined.

Unfortunately I uhh stripped some splines off the stock shaft in a Moab TW meet mishap and while the bearings are good I needed to replace the shaft. I ordered a "right" axle assy with backing plate and good bearings from a wrecker. Everything seemed good until I went to install and found out the damn backing plates are side specific and even though this was a "right" axle apparently they think right means driver. So... rather than messing around with trying to find more parts I figured time to suck it up and do THIS.

FWIW heres my stock axle and side gear. This is also what a broken side gear looks like in the diff.





whoops!

To start off the driver and passenger side bearing and backing plates are side specific. However from my measurements both passenger and driver axle shafts are the same lengths. 31 and 13/16" roughly.

You can see the differences in backing plates here.



To start with you'll probably want to drain the diff, or you'll likely dribble fluid out the end of the housing when you pull either side. You CAN do one side at a time which is preferable anyway, and lift that side up enough so the fluid won't come out.

You may want to just go ahead and drain the diff anyway, good chance to change all the fluid out.

So go ahead and lift the rear axle up and put it on a stand or two, after chocking the tires.

Next pull the wheel and tire off. Stash somewhere safe.



Then remove the drum. I'm not going to go into assembly/disassembly of the brakes. You'll need to pull the brake line off the wheel cylinder. Pull the e-brake cable from the backing plate. Also pull the ABS sensor plug and remove the 10mm stud and sensor and place somewhere safe.

Once the brakes, brake line, and abs sensor are removed pull the 4 14mm nuts off the rear of the bearing assy.

Then all you do is pull the whole shaft and bearing.

The write up on TTORA for 1st gens will inform you you can pound off the bearing and collar by slamming the shaft into the ground while holding the backing plate. I didn't have much luck so I made up my own SST like Toyota uses.

You'll need to pull the snap ring above the pressed on collar, before you can put the axle in the press.



Once you've got the snap ring off and your SST in the press you can bolt your axle into your SST.

To make the SST I used 3" ID 1/4" wall 3.5" OD pipe, and some 1/4" plate. On one end I had Relentless Fab cut me a hole large in a piece of plate large enough to slip over the end of the tube. On the other I had him cut out a plate that mimics the end of the axle tube, I took cardboard and a ball peen hammer and knocked out a template, took a few measurements from that and Eric cut it out quick and welded it all together for me. I'd go with thicker plate than 1/4" though if possible. EDIT: 1/4" plate is NOT thick enough, you might get by but it's not adequate without cause for concern.

You can see the Toyota SST here.





Pretty simple tool, hangs from the press and then the bearing bolts to it. Then simply push on the end of the axle shaft.

Once you have the bearing and backing plate off the shaft you'll need to drive out the mounting studs. I got 3 of em out but the last was a PITA! I ended up drilling the head out. EDIT: the stock shaft was much easier

I used a small sledge and a socket to go under the backing plate/stud. Thread your nuts on to protect the threads and give em some good whacks.

You'll need to re-use these unless you get extras from Toyota.

You'll also need your backing plate so don't trash it either. It's pretty stout though.

Mock picture


Now you'll have the shaft and a pile of parts.

You need to get the inner race off the shaft.



You'll take an abrasive cutting disk and carefully notch the inner race. Then take a chisel and give it some good whacks while supported by a block of wood. It should crack and then you can slide it right off.







You'll be left with a pile of parts.

One of the races, this has the tone ring.


You can see how much galling took place, the shaft (much harder) is unscathed and perfectly smooth. This collar (softer than the shaft) is also what the oil seal rides against.



Studs



Heres the bearing housing/race


Ball bearings rather than taper roller oddly enough.


Also take note the washer in the corner, this sits behind the pressed on collar. Convex away from the bearing.


Koyo OEM




Replacement bearings from Napa, think ahead order online and save a butt load.

Napa "BGR" in an SKF box. Good fortune would have it that they're Koyo bearings!




I ordered a new washer, sleeve(collar), and snap ring from Toyota. I'm picking them up in the morning and pressing the old bearing off the stock shaft to get the backing plate and then pressing everything back together on the new shaft. I'm not sure if you could re-use the washer or not but for 4$ I thought whatever. The snap ring and the collar(sleeve) I don't believe can be re-used.

Edit: You can re-use the snap ring if you carefully took it off with snap ring pliers. You can also re-use the washer. I wouldn't recommend re-using the collar/sleeve though. For the price though I just replaced the snap ring and the washer. In the future I'd re-use the washer.

 

Also bearings are side specific, I think the only difference is the mounting for the ABS/tone ring sensor.

DRIVER



PASSENGER

 

reserved

 

A better write up. Mostly.

http://www.4x4wire.com/toyota/maintenance/rear_axle/wheel_bearing/

 

good information! i have that hum coming from the rear similar to the hum i had coming from the front bearings before i changed them. i suspect i'll have to do the rears soon enough.

 

bummer! PITA but I'm sure DIY will save a boat load of money

 

This is not really a DIY in my opinion. Pressing in the bearing is a huge under taking and there is a very specific measurement from the tip of the shaft to the relation of the pressed bearing.

 

Well if you know of a measurement let me know. As it is Toyota doesn't mention a thing in their FSM. I also consulted with two of my instructors before getting into this (fleet manager for a large construction company and transmission and diesel building tech for Cat).

AFAIK you need only press the bearing on until it seats, and then press on the sleeve until you have enough room for your snap ring. The write up I linked also portrays this.

So AFAIK that's bullshit.

I'm not saying it's an ideal write up, but if you'd do this yourself than chances are you're already mechanically apt and you can fill in whatever gaps. You're at least apt enough to have access to a press and somewhere to fab up the tool.



I'll update with the rest of the install in a bit.

 

If you don't get it right it will end up leaking gear oil or the speed sensor will not read correctly causing the ABS light to come on

 

Well the bearing has the tone ring on that outer race and that's pretty easy to tell when it's seated, the collar also is easy to tell when seated, plus theres just enough room for the snap ring. The seal rides on the collar, you'll need a new collar and when you get the new collar the seal will ride where it will ride on it, theres no grooves worn into it anywhere so should be just fine.

I will post up once I get the axle back into the truck and drive it around but I wanted to rest a bit before getting back at it. It's all ready to go I just need to slide it in and button everything up.

 

So back to pressing the bearing off...

Heres my tool in the press. 1/4" plate isn't quite adequate, the bending of the top plate is from something else but the bottom at the bearing started pulling apart on this 2nd pull. I had the welding shop weld it up for me more. The 100 ton press would have had no problem tearing this thing apart.





I ended up pulling it back out, setting the collar on an anvil, and striking it with a chisel, trying to spread it out (similar to splitting the inner race). I already had a new collar which you should get regardless. After giving it lots of good whacks, we put it back into the press. Came off much easier. I won't say it's a requirement but probably a good idea.

After I got the old bearing and backing plate off the shaft I threaded the nuts on the studs and pounded em out, they cam out super easy this time for whatever reason. I believe I just sat the whole thing on the anvil.

I then put the new bearing together with the backing plate, just make sure you get the orientation right. I used the hole in the anvil and pounded the studs through with a sledge and a punch.

This is how I pressed the bearing in.



Bearing first, the inner race you split off the shaft from the old bearing is perfect (as it easily slides back off the shaft), under that put a piece of tubing that will fit over the shaft and fit against the inner racing you're driving the bearing on with. Find a flat round plate that can sit on top of the hub between the studs and use that to put the ram on.

Go slow and turn the bearing while pressing to insure nothing is binding. Also be mindful of the safety hazards present (exploding race comes to mind).

Once the bearing is seated you can put the washer and the sleeve on. The washer goes on behind the sleeve with the convex side away from bearing. Pay attention to this as you pull the stock components off. You can re-use this piece.

You'll put the sleeve on with the flat base towards the bearing. Use your inner race again and stack the old sleeve under that. You can then press everything together. Press until it seats, also mind the gap for the snap ring.

Install the snap ring (you can re-use this if you carefully took it off with snap ring pliers), put everything back in the truck, button it all up, and it's done.

 

Got the new assembly bolted in, no ABS edit: errors, and no leaks, but I haven't driven very far. So far though everything seems good.

 

So now I follow where you get that measurement stuff. Did a bearing on a Tundra shaft... kinda. Definitely prefer the Taco. No measurement for the Taco.

 

What do you need to measure on Tundra ?

 

Our bearing setup is more expensive but a better design from a service and durability standpoint.

 

First off, great write up. I like the detail you put into it, with the photos and everything. I am curious about the bearings themselves. You mentioned the left and right axle bearings are different. I haven't done a 2nd gen set of rear bearings, and when I look them up, Surprise, Surprise, they have different part numbers to include the hub and all. (Left is part number 42460-04010, Right is 42450-04010) So that is some great information there. The 1st gen bearings are both the same part number, so no need for concern on them. Thanks for the great write up!

Oh, by the way, a roller bearing is actually able to hold a load better than the taper bearings in my experience. Though I prefer the barrel type roller for rear axles that haul anything really heavy.

 

That is confusing for sure. GWhich year Tundra/ Differential is that?