Front wheel bearing replacement

ok so as stated about i called Timken and ask if the modules bearings are packed. they said yes. And i went one step further and sent an email. Here is the response: hope it helps everyone.. i will still look inside and check them out but..

Thanks for your email Ted. This part would be lubed for life. Timken tapers (not assembled bearings) are lubed with a preservative and need packed for assembly, but hubs, bearing modules or sealed unipac bearings come lubed for life.

 

Fair enough. BTW, I wasn't trying to be a dick or boast, I just wanted to let you know my experience, well sorta. Anyway, I would suspect most bearing manufacturers for our wheel bearings including factory Koyos come "pre-lubed" but you'll open them to find more thank likely the bare minimum IMO. If you can get at em I'd pack em good. Just my opinion.

I appreciate you posting their response though!

 

Please take some pics and supply part numbers when you get a chance.

It would of been great to see some part numbers being referenced within the e-mail interaction.

I'm a negative person so I'll remain doubtful until he shows us a pic of them when he gets them.

 

A 3% moly compound isn't going to cause skidding on a high load tapered roller wheel bearing.

I have a gun with syn power and another gun with durablend hanging in my garage, they've been that way for months, and I haven't had any dribbling.

I don't doubt your experiences but I did research before I ever bought the syn power and most of the posts on BITOG forum recommended it and had the problem of dribbling coming from Mobil 1. I'm not saying Mobil 1 is junk or not to use it... I'm just saying.


http://bit.ly/XMCAKC

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http://bit.ly/XMCWAW

 

A socket, a steel sleeve, an old race, etc... Anything that will match the diamater of what you're pushing on. Just remember, shit can explode under that much force, so use safety glasses, go slow, and be very careful/cautious. It may be a good idea to use a shield in some cases. Pressing these out you'll probably be okay but some bearings are tight pressing on or off.

As far as that grease is concerned, all I can tell you is that aluminum complex greases are often used in hi temp wheel bearing applications so I'm sure you'll be fine.

 

you waiting for the pics of the Timken pre-greased bearings?

I'm not going to be able to hold out much longer myself

 

Well mostly people ask questions and then never return haha. Mostly

 

you r0x0rs my b0x0rs! thanks a million!!

I read the "how to" on replacing the wheel bearing. I've got a 2wd.

Quick question. are there any seals i should replace while replacing the wheel bearing? Last thing i want to do is go through all that trouble and not install a simple seal.

 

I'd imagine you still have the outer seal you'll need to replace but I'm not very familiar with the two wheel drive hub setup.

 

i will take pictures tomorrow of them.

Does anyone have pictures of 2wd bearing replacement?

 

So how do i open these bearing up.. to check the grease? looks like white grease in there...

 

You can pop one side out super easy.

 

I disagree...I have been prying pushing pulling on these damn Timkin bearings for about an hour! I refuse to put a prybar to new bearings. from what I can tell, white grease is in there..Rep from Timkin emailed me back yesterday with a one sentence response.. "Our products come prelubricated". Ya, thanks..(I asked exactly what grease they were using).
Any other ideas on how to get these things apart? I get just a bit more play in the side without the seal around the bearing in the module.
thanks
dewey

 

The side with the tone ring doesn't play nicely. The other side should pop out fairly easy. I'd use a non marring non gouging non chipping non flaking or splintering punch/drift and tap against the inner race carefully.

 

My bearing went right around 73k too actually...

 

I know this an older post but just found it when searching. Replacing my 2011 Tacoma 4x4 Right Front Wheel Bearing today. Had the same thought bearing or hub and bearing replacement. Mechanic that I use and trust a lot is keeping the original hub and just pressing a new bearing in. I do a lot of work on my truck myself but when it comes to pressing in bearings, etc. I tend to just have a pro do it. Cost is $280 with part, 3 hours. I looked up recommended cost online and was shocked to see the range of $400-$1,000.00. This particular mechanic, licensed shop, has terrific rates and does a great job but still a pretty big difference in price online. Of note and why I wrote: When replacing the bearing, the wheel speed sensor can easily be broken, even with being gentle in removing it (ABS sensor). Cost of the sensor is $140 if it is needed, so that could explain some of the other costs that you see online.