One piece rear driveline

Just got one made to eliminate my carrier bearing, one of the best mods I've done. $200 well spent. No more vibes. Drivetrain feels rock solid as it should. This is in a DC Short bed.

 

Ant pics?

 

Thats a big ant,
If you asking about pics of the driveline, I didn't take any. Just a long black tube with a couple of U-joints and a splined slip shaft between.

 

Does this modification void power train warranty? Anyone know?

 

If it causes a failure, then yes, but only for the failed part.

 

Who did the one piece drive-shaft for you? I'm in Miami but is this a company that's nation wide?
I have an '08 DCSB 4.0 Prerunner
Thanks

 

lol not even a minute later

thanks

...but i am interested in the solid drive shaft? if toyota didn't do it themselves....why not? downsides to solid shaft?

 

Here's the place that built it.
http://www.dlssac.com/index2.php
Great shop. They've done work for me in the past, and they're building me one for my fj40.

I can't figure why they use a two piece.

 

The solid shaft, especially on the DCSB is getting long, especially for the diameter. This comes into effect for critical maximum speed and rotating mass. there are lots of good threads on this. The overall benefits to a single shaft are less ujoints and therefore less opportunities for failure; depending on cv or single u joint at tc you only have to worry about your pinion angle, not finding the right spot for the tc and 1st shaft angle, 1st shaft and second shaft angle and second shaft and pinion angle. Depending on factors of building 1 piece it may cause premature failure of seals, but that is debatable.
I have a 1 piece and it is great.

 

I read on an old toyota brochure that its for offroad clearance. There is likely a better reason though.

 

No. It can only affect a warranty if it can be proven that the mod directly caused a failure.

 

Supposedly there is a good driveshaft shop in Lantana or Lake Worth along 441. Never used them. For your DCSB and MY DCLB Prerunners, I read on here where someone did a slip shaft on the rear and it was the way to go. They kept the two piece but modded the rear section. If this was done with a solid mid bearing and CV joint it should be super smooth and tough.

PK

 

I looked at that before I went with the one piece, and even with the lift the difference is so minimal that it's not worth it in my mind. I drive this thing pretty hard offroad too, I believe that's what caused the CB to fail in the first place. I had an 1985 xtra cab that had CB too, I had just replaced it, went wheeling and barely bonked it on a rock and the sucker was toast. Went to a one piece on that rig too and never looked back.

 

I called 2 driveline shops in Miami and they both told me that I need to lower the CB to compensate for the lift. I also read about Beefed Tacos CB Drop Kit. I can buy one for up to 4"'s of lift. I lifted mine 3"'s.

I don't mind spending the $60 or $70 if it solves my 12-25 mph shudder but this will alter the angle from the tranny to the CB? Is that a problem?

I've also had 2 dealers drive it and they both told me that it won't cause any issues driving it like this. One of them said that his lifted F-250 did the same and he lowered the cb but it was never completely smooth yet nothing ever broke. Anyone lower their CB with success?

Thanks

Hello PK.

 

It's roughly $200 when that CB fails, which they do, the more it vibrates around the sooner it'll fail. If you are easy on the throttle and don't tow anything you'll probably be fine. My truck has just over 100k on it and the CB was replaced once already, this would have been the second. This is just for reference. I'm in no way trying to sway anyone to ditch the CB, it was just the right decision for me.

 

Mine has 49k on it and its failed twice. Its in the shop right now getting a 1 piece drive line. Thats without ever wheeling it. Cb are crap.