4cyl Idler Pulley Part Numbers

2008 Tacoma 2TR-FE 2.7L 4cyl
Gates Idler Pulleys do not fit

I had squeaky pulleys so I bought the Gates Idler Pulleys and Belt Tensioner Assembly from RockAuto.com

Belt Tensioner: GAT 38486
Upper Pulley: GAT 36173
Lower Pulley: GAT 36174

The Belt Tensioner fit fine, but the upper and lower pulleys DO NOT WORK for my truck.


Below is a picture of the Toyota Factory upper idler pulley (left) and Gates upper idler pulley (right), notice that the original factory pulley has two bearings and the Gates pulley only has one.

Factory upper idler pulley (left) Gates upper idler pulley (right)

Factory Toyota upper pulley (left) Gates upper pulley (right)

Factory pulley (left) Gates pulley (right)

Below I've installed the factory bolt and bushing/spacer on the Gates pulley (left) to show that the bolt would run out of threads before the spacer would tighten to the pulley mount. The pulley would also be to far inboard to contact the belt.

 

On my 1st gen idler pulley I got a gates too works but not anything like the OEM one was.

$6 got me a new bearing..

 

The picture below shows the factory Toyota lower idler pulley (left) and the Gates lower idler pulley (right). The Gates pulley has a similar problem, it would need to be spaced outboard to contact the belt.

Factory lower pulley (left) Gates lower pulley (right)

Factory lower pulley (left) Gates lower pulley (right)



Fortunately all of my squeaks went away with the installation of the new tensioner assembly and a new factory Toyota serpentine belt. I haven't tried to return the pulleys to RockAuto yet.

 

I'm not sure about the bottom pulley, but the Gates #36174 fit perfect for the top replacement on mine(2TR-FE), just swap the center bolt from the original and it lined up perfect.

 

streamlight, what year is your truck?

 

Is removing the tensioner straight forward? Is the bolt on the back accessable or do I have to remove the alternator?

 

Seems a lot of people have problems with these idlers. Must be sourcing the parts from non JDM OEMs in North America. The standards just dont hold up to the Japanese ones.

 

dang. whodathunk ottozone would have this on hand...

http://www.autozone.com/autozone/re...ump/Removal-Installation/_/P-0996b43f80378c52

 

It's been a few months since I did this project, but it was fairly straight forward at the time. I did remove the alternator to get at the tensioner.

The hardest part was getting the electrical connections off of the alternator, I was worried about breaking the plastic clips and they're on there real good.

This video at 2:00 minutes in shows you a couple tricks for getting the electrical connections off.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nyNlteE7vW0

Good luck

 

Yeah, the clips on these US assembled cars tend to be very brittle. I broke two on the coil packs on the wife's Solara. Thanks for the warning though. I saw this video in my searches and it doesnt look too bad of a job since I'm handy with a wrench.

 

All done. Replaced belt, tensioner, and upper idler pulley (although the upper seemed fine). I could hear a little rattle in the tensioner pulley and the spring was expectedly weaker than the replacement. I didn't have to even get under the truck. The alt came right through the top. I think the tensioner pulley could be set forward a millimeter or two, it wasn't as centered as the oem, but it seems to work all the same. Everything is quiet as a mouse now though its warm and raining here which will mask the squeaks. There was a tiny bit of slide in the power steering pump axle, but that might be normal and it doesn't leak or have any weird issues.

Thanks all for your help.

So...I have 2.7 2009 with 80k and a local dealership has a 2006 x-runner with 75k but they want about 17k....so tempted. I could really enjoy the 4.0 and the 6mt. I really miss my "stage 4" wrx wagon. I wonder if it would make up for that missing feeling and I could have the best of both worlds without having to buy a sporty car to enjoy. My only gripe is mpg sine work is 35 miles away and I get a consistent 24mpg in the taco.......I guess I can dream.

 

That X-Runner probably won't get that 24 mpg. Wish it did! Maybe when Toyota starts using engines that didn't start development when Clinton was president. Besides, being a 2006 it would have the early weaker synchros the six speed is infamous for.

I've had that

$45 Gates 36174 Idler Pulley

Gates 36174 for my lower idler for 13k miles so far. I cheated though. I spaced it out with a 1/8" thick washer that was the proper diameter to fit the back side. Belt lined up perfectly after I did that, and the bolt didn't bottom out.

Next time I'll do it the right way and buy OEM.

At least Toyotas shouldn't go through idlers like my first Civic. It had just one idler pulley for the A/C and I went through 5 of them suckers in 80k miles. Every spring: change the plugs, change the tranny oil, and change that nearly-impossible-to-reach idler. Even if the new Mitsuboshi belt was just tight enough not to slip, sure enough in a year that bearing would scream, be it a Dayco, Gates, or Honda pulley.

 

It is a "truck" but the 2.7 is just such a dog. I bought it for the simplicity of parts and maintenance. My brother has a 4runner with the 4.0 from 2006. His economy sucks. I like how they put the filer on the top tho for convenience. I however have a fumoto valve and will put one on every vehicle I buy. I don't use tools or have to lift anything to change the oil


I think when I pay this thing off i'll buy a 2.0 civic si for some fun. I'd get something violent like a GTO or a Hemi Charger but I just can't justify the bang for the buck when I have to start working on it.

 

Hello,

I have squeaky pulleys.
Could you help me with oem part number?
I got a 2009 2.7L 4 cylinder PreRunner.

 

I just ordered what they had from rockauto. Get the Gates ones and a new gates belt. It will be an upper and a tensioner. I didnt see the lower p/n but mine was ok. It will cost you about 200 bones without discounts. Its probably the tensioner, as they seem to fail after a couple of years. I used the same p/n as in this thread. I'm not sure why the OP didn't have the exact same units, but a 09 should be fine.








Tip: When installing the new belt, put it over the p/s pump last and use that to wiggle the ribs onto the pulleys. It has the largest diameter you can reach, so you get a better angle when pushing the belt onto the tight fit. I also never had to get under the truck. The alternator will squeeze through the top. Additionally, my plugs on the alt were easy to remove.