07 DCSB Running Rough Under Load...

Hello TW. I've searched various threads for answers, but have found no definitive solution.

I have a 2007 Double Cab, manual, with 90,0000 miles. I did new plugs at 85k, along with differential oils (+LSD friction modifier).

About a month ago, something started to squeak/creak under the bed, when the vehicle was in motion, however it wasn't RPM dependent.

About two weeks ago, the truck started running really rough going uphill, especially when towing a trailer.

CEL has not turned on. I attached a scan tool and received the following codes:

P0300
P0100
P0102
P0103
P0125

These codes are concurrent with a MAF malfunction. I tried cleaning properly first, no luck. I replaced the MAF with a new Denso unit.

The truck now throws no codes, it even passed emissions this morning, but it still runs awful. The engine is smooth when the clutch is out and revs freely though the range.

I checked my trans mounts and see no issue. I checked the driveshaft and feel there might be a slight bit of play in the rearmost U-joint.

I also checked the drums for good measure, but found nothing amiss.

I'm stumped. I enjoy working on the truck myself, and of course would like to hunt down any potential simple culprits.

Can I suspect the in-tank fuel filter?

 

Could you define the symptons you're experiencing a little better? You went from MAF to a squeek and creak and checking u-joints. Is it the engine that's not running well, is it vibrating, making noises from the rear or everything all at once?

Squeeks and creaks could just be your leaf springs. Make sure your u-bolts are properly torqued (which at 90k miles, I would hope they are), and inspect the leafs to make sure one of them isn't cracked or broken. Even if they are in good shape, the stock suspension is very soft and often bottoms out with light loads.

As for the u-joints, if there is play across the joint, they should be replaced.

If you replaced the MAF sensor and the truck is no longer throwing any codes but still running like crap, try to explain what it's doing. Is it just losing power while towing up hills? Have you tried cleaning out the throttle body, new air filter, bad tank of gas?

 

Thanks Pugga, the throttle body was cleaned with the old MAF, the air filter is new, and the gas is currently fresh 93 octane.

The truck seems to have power, but there is a shudder in the driveline that starts at around 35mph irrelevant of gear and only under gas. The truck coasts smoothly.

I was hoping that the creak was related to the u-joint, and that in turn might be related to the driveshaft being out of balance causing the shudder. Is this plausible or unlikely?

 

Driveline shutters and vibrations are, unfortunately, very common for the Tacoma. The rear leaf springs are weak so, when power is applied, they flex and could be the cause of your shutter. Additionally, I'm assuming you have a 4x4 based on your first post, there is a carrier bearing that is wrapped in rubber. As the rubber gets soft, that could allow the drive shaft to have some play and could cause your vibrations also. Lastly, there is a TSB out to help with driveline vibrations caused by a weak rear engine mount (it's called an engine mount but in reality it is the rubber mounts that support the transfer case).

Is your truck lifted at all? Any suspension work done to it, air bags, etc? Does it do this loaded and unloaded? Lastly, was this a sudden thing or did it just all of the sudden start happening?

 

I am bare bones stock. The truck does this when driving unloaded, or with 150lbs on the tongue. I was aware of the Taco shake, but since I was trouble free for 89k, I didn't think it would develop suddenly.

I will check the carrier bearing. Presently I have a grease-able U-joint on order to replace the one with play.

Thank you for your help so far Pugga. I'd rather avoid taking it to Toyota due
To expense, whereas most of the local mechanics seem to be only a degree above shade tree. I have summers off from work and can spend some of my time wrenching so I don't mind learning new things as longs as I have adequate prior knowledge to begin with.

 

If this developed quickly, it might be worth having a driveline shop take a look at it. Don't waste your time with Toyota, they'll scratch their heads, waste your money and likely still won't get it right!

If the U-joint is bad, that should be replaced and could be your problem with the vibrations. The creek is likely NOT the u-joint, probably the leaf springs. Pressure wash the springs, make sure there's no grit between the leafs, that is often what causes noisy leafs.

I hate to say it but I have a 2007 double cab also, similar mileage and I've just learned to live with the vibrations I haven't been able to chase out. I have a take off vibration and another slight one under power at 20 MPH. I was able to get rid of the others but these seem a little more stubborn to diagnose.

 

ELK, let us know what you find. My 09 has a bit of a shudder but I think mine is a clutch issue. I had my girlfriends daughter out for a lesson on the standard trans and she took a few miles off the clutch for sure.

 

6/16 Update:

Replaced rear U-Joint with $23.09 grease-able MOOG from Advance Auto. I had regularly injected grease into the lube ports, but as you can see, the grease duct was blocked on one of the four spiders. The needle bearings had actually disintegrated.

The truck now runs silky smooth with no more noise.

The moral; if hauling a load, check the U-Joints for play. This was barely noticeable, but it made a world of difference in ride quality.

I hope this is of assistance to someone out there.