Seafoam Question

^^THIS!

 

It does not go into or through the booster.

 

I wouldn't. You need the vacuum to suck it up and if it's not running nothing will burn off

 

X3

 

you won't hydrolock your engine by seafoaming the vacuum system it'd be about impossible to suck that much up. just put the seafoam in a cup and SLOWLY suck it up by sticking the hose down in the cup. your engine will end up dying. it'll be ok... then you don't put anymore in the hose, and hook the vacuum line back up and let it sit for 10 min or so. crank it up and watch the smoke show lol. do the engine oil about 200 miles before your next oil change is due. run a couple tanks of gas through it, and you have covered all bases.

 

straight from their website

The following effect can also be achieved with injecting water into the engine, which cleans carbon quite as well, for no cost.
Certain engines that are more prone to dropping valve seats should be cold when undertaking this procedure. This will help reduce the amount of stress on engine components from temperature differences and expansion. However this also reduces the effectiveness of Seafoam, because carbon and other contaminants in the combustion chamber are best cleaned when hot.

Before & after.



Smoke after starting the engine.

1. Start the engine and locate the most accessible vacuum line. This is usually the brake booster line. Take the line off and put it up to the can of Seafoam.
2. The engine's vacuum will begin to draw the seafoam out of the can. While doing so the engine will want to stall, so reving the throttle is required. Usually this is easiest with a friend inside the car but can be done by using one hand to hold the bottle and hose and the other to rev the throttle body.
   • The engine may vibrate and shake during the intake but this is normal.
   • Seafoam can also be used by pouring small amounts into the cylinders while changing the spark plugs. However pouring too much can hydrolock the engine and cause damage. Usually no more than 20 ml is recommended per cylinder.
3. Once the entire can of Seafoam is empty the engine should be turned off and left to sit for 5 minutes. During this time Seafoam will soak into and weaken the carbon and oil deposits inside the cylinders.
4. Turn on the engine, which may require some extra throttle the first time. Once the engine is on, lots of thick white smoke will come out of the exhaust. This is normal, the smoke is the Seafoam along with deposits being burned out of the engine. The dirtier the engine the more smoke will come out, it serves as a good sign of the treatment working.
   • Typically new engines with less than 50,000 miles will barely smoke at all, and will not see as much of an improvement from the Seafoam engine treatment due to lack of deposits buildup.
5. Drive the car until all of the smoke is gone. If the white smoke dissapears and blue smoke begins to come out at the end, this is fine as it will dissapear in 5-10 minutes of driving.

Oil application

Pour 1/3 - 1/2 of a can of Seamfoam into the oil to clean rings, lifters, dirty parts and remove moisture. This will thin out the oil a bit and should be done prior to changing the oil to ensure that all the dirt does not stay in the oil for long. Depending on the amount of sludge in the engine, it should be run for 15 minutes while idling or driven for a few hours with Seafoam before the oil change.
Fuel application

Pour 1/3 - 1/2 of half a can into fuel tank to clean injectors, carburetor jets, fuel lines and remove moisture. Seafoam can also be placed directly into the rail for faster injector cleaning.
Exhaust leak detection

Another helpful application of Seafoam is finding exhaust leaks. The thick white smoke created by Seafoam helps to pinpoint areas where otherwise invisible exhaust leaks exist. For best results, the fan should be disabled otherwise the smoke will be dissipated too quickly, and the procedure performed on a non windy day.
Concerns

As with any product, negative effects are always a possibility, but only under rare cirumstances such as:

• Hydrolocking the engine: This is not possible to do through an ordinary vacuum line because not enough Seafoam can be drawn without stalling the engine first. The only way is if the etire can is somehow emptied by other means very quickly or if too much is poured into the spark plug openings (see above).
• Heat warping valves: Some claim that injecting Seafoam directly will cause a lot of stress on the valves by cooling them too quickly and result in warping. Valves are already cooled slightly by the fuel and intake charge as it passes by them and are designed to handle the temperature difference. This scenario is unlikely.
• Dropping a valve seat: On certain engines which are prone to valve seat failure, using Seafoam might provide the slight temperature difference needed to get the valve seat lose and end up in complete engine failure. An example of this happened on a Ford Escort after running Seafoam.
• Creating leaks: Whether compression or oil leaks, some can develop on rare occasions if the engine is held together by dirt and Seafoam cleans that dirt away. Also a very rare scenario, as experience shows that running seafoam through 4 cylinder engines with even 200-300 thousand miles does not create negative effects.
• Releasing contaminants into oil: If the engine contains excessive amounts of sludge, what can happen is some of the sludge that would otherwise stay in place will get freed up from the use of Seafoam and begin to travel throughout the oil system. Ruining bearings, clogging up filters, and clogging up the oil sump screen mesh, effectively starving the engine of oil. This is why the procedure should only be performed just prior to changing the oil and oil filter.

The massive amounts of white smoke that is created from running seafoam is very entertaining and often times the best part of the experience. Some may worry that it can lead to getting pulled over or other problems. However police usually do not have an issue with it, and understand that it is temporary. The chances of getting violations or legal problems from running the car on a major street after using seafoam are slim to none. However it is recommended not to do this in a parking lot close to other cars as smoke will enter other cars or buildings and create unecessary tension.

 

It's recommended... and with the type of questions the OP is asking, it seems like he needs all the help he can get.

 

OK, OP, before everyone starts pulling their hair out over the horror stories of Seafoam, lets back up and go to step 1.

First, assuming you have a 2.7L, correct?

OK, look at this photo:


The curved rubber hose coming out of the black round thing (brake booster) is what you are trying to isolate. Take a pair of jaw pliers and squeeze the clip near the brake booster and pull the hose off. The intake manifold is providing vacuum (sucking) through that hose.

Turn the motor on and plant a flathead screw driver in the throttle plate (the thing in front of the motor whose cable is connected to the accelerator). When you lift up the throttle plate, the engine runs faster - helping it not to die when you have the vacuum hose disconnected. A small flat blade scredriver should keep rpms around 1500-2000 rpm.

With the motor running, the vacumm tube disconnected, place the open end of the tube in the Seafoam bottle - let the tube slowly suck the Seafoam out of the container. Should take about 3 or 4 minutes. When the bottle is empty the motor will die out (which is fine).

Reconnect the hose, let the truck sit for 15 minutes, start and let the smoke pour out of your tailpipe.

Thats it. You can do 1/3 bottle, 1/2 bottle, or full bottle. It wont hurt your motor. There isnt much you can mess up with this setup. If the motor stalls, restart it and apply more throttle.

Good luck.

 

Like I said.

DON'T FUCKING DO IT!!!!!!!!!!

You don't know what you are doing and are going to fuck up your engine.

 

I hope you plan on buying him a new engine after he bends a rod following your terrible advice.

 

I have the 3.4L V6. Im pretty sure its in the same place.

 

Ive been using a full bottle an half a dozen different cars for a decade with no problems.

 

So pretty much you take the hose and put it into the bottle start your truck and then rev it a little so it suckes that into it then let it take 1/2 and then turn the truck off and let it sit for 10-15 mins and then start it? Sounds pretty easy

 

Yeah, but loosen the hose first, start the truck and then fully remove the hose. With the hose off before starting, it may make it hard for the motor to start and stay on.

As a precaution, just make sure to go slow in feeding the SF in, dont bury the hose in there. If you really want to make sure you're doing it right, take a 1QT water bottle or 20 oz soda bottle and cut off the top 1/3 of the soda/water bottle. Pour the seafoam in the cut bottle and submerge the hose in there to feed the motor.

Again, there is a lot of pearl clutching about seafoam. I personally wouldnt put it in my new 5.0 Mustang yet, but with an older motor, I have zero qualms about doing it. Just go slow, and everything will be fine.

 

Yep I use a 20 oz Coke bottle that I cut open. I have only had to do a few buddies cars in the last few years. Mine are a 2011 and 2012. Too new to really do it in the oil or vacuum system. Still can do it in the gas though. For the oil and vacuum system I'd want to do it at least around 30-40K miles for the first time. Still iffy if it really needs it then

 

Submerging the hose, you greatly increase the risk of getting too much too quick. It may work 9/10 times, but whoever is #10 is gonna get pissed when his shit breaks. I found it easiest to pour into the hose from the seafoam bottle. It is sucking hard enough that if you get anywhere close to hitting it you won't spill a drop. I also needed a friend to run the throttle since this method takes 2 hands

 

I did this with a small funnel and used my thumb to regulate the dribble into the hose. I did not feel comfortable at all about just putting the hose into a cup. With the small funnel in the PCV hose, I was able to easily turn the throttle with the other hand, although having someone else there would have been nice.

 

I used the spray and it worked great. Very easy to use. There is a how to video on the manufacture's website.

http://www.seafoamsales.com/sea-foam-spray/

 

Same general concept I used I guess, you have to keep the stream small enough from the bottle that it will be able to suck it all up. Still allows for like 50/50 air to seafoam ratio

 

So I did it, and I took it for a little drive and now my check engine light is on....