1. Welcome to Tacoma World!

    You are currently viewing as a guest! To get full-access, you need to register for a FREE account.

    As a registered member, you’ll be able to:
    • Participate in all Tacoma discussion topics
    • Communicate privately with other Tacoma owners from around the world
    • Post your own photos in our Members Gallery
    • Access all special features of the site

Trying to correct horrible ignition wiring

Discussion in '2nd Gen. Tacomas (2005-2015)' started by Von Octra, Jul 2, 2013.

  1. Jul 2, 2013 at 6:58 PM
    #1
    Von Octra

    Von Octra [OP] New Member

    Joined:
    Jul 2, 2013
    Member:
    #107481
    Messages:
    2
    Gender:
    Male
    Carlyle, SK
    Vehicle:
    2002 3.4L 4WD TRD
    Euro Crystal Head Lights Euro Smoked Tail Lights Billet Grill
    I bought a 2002 Tacoma 3.4L which had the ignition tumbler removed. In its place, the previous owner had wired in both a key-less entry/start system and a rocker switch + momentary switch for starting and accessories. The truck ran great for about 4000 Kms. Suddenly when I drove through some hard ruts a squeal sound came out of the speakers, along with a small amount of smoke from under the hood. Everything was immediately dead except for the "charging system" warning light.
    I disconnected both terminals from the battery, and looked for signs of any exposed wires which could have grounded but found nothing. After reconnecting the battery I waited to see if anything was visible with current, again nothing. The truck started fine and ran like nothing ever happened.
    About 200 kms later I drove over some rough train tracks and that was the final straw. There was an external ground cable which ran through the firewall to the key-less system. It started on fire and burned all the way to in behind the driver side kicker panel.
    After removing the burnt ground, the lower section of the dash and the airway I found this nightmare:

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    I carefully removed the key-less system (which seemed to be the source of the fire) and was left with that mess of relays. I bought a Haynes manual and rewired the Ignition the way the manual directed. The truck will not start. I can "hot-wire" any of the systems by themselves to get them operating but together its a dud. The two relays required test fine, they open and close as required.

    Has anyone had such a bizarre problem? Or does anyone have a way of wiring in an ignition system without spending $366 on a new tumbler and key set?
    I love that little truck and would hate to see it go because I am not noticing something that would be considered obvious to others.

    Thank you to anyone willing to help out, I will appreciate it.
    Von
     
  2. Jul 2, 2013 at 7:05 PM
    #2
    scocar

    scocar hypotenoper

    Joined:
    Nov 11, 2009
    Member:
    #25814
    Messages:
    39,431
    :eek: Ouch, welcome to the site. First, ask a moderator to move this to the 1st gen forum (you posted in 2nd gen) so you get more model-specific help. Second, download the factory service manual (with electrical) now:
    http://web.archive.org/web/20080731033603/http://www.ncttora.com/fsm/

    Third, wait for someone who know more about this than me.
     
  3. Jul 2, 2013 at 9:56 PM
    #3
    Von Octra

    Von Octra [OP] New Member

    Joined:
    Jul 2, 2013
    Member:
    #107481
    Messages:
    2
    Gender:
    Male
    Carlyle, SK
    Vehicle:
    2002 3.4L 4WD TRD
    Euro Crystal Head Lights Euro Smoked Tail Lights Billet Grill
    Thank you for the link to the manual Scocar, better choice for sure. That Haynes manual was vague.
     
  4. Jul 3, 2013 at 7:34 AM
    #4
    Raoul Duke

    Raoul Duke Well-Known Member

    Joined:
    Nov 22, 2012
    Member:
    #91623
    Messages:
    161
    Gender:
    Male
    First Name:
    CJ
    Vancouver, Canada
    Vehicle:
    TRD O/R Pyrite
    retrofit/bhlm, CB, System, color match grill, debadge, TRD wheels
    the alternative to going to a dealership is to take it to a good car audio installer in your area.

    most car audio shops will be less than $60 an hour. I would only quote 45 to 60 minutes to fix that (assuming that the ignition and key work because that could be the reason he has some sort of push button starter in the first place)

    I did 12volt car stuff for years and would constantly come accross back yard install stuff all the time. but too be fair to whoever installed that, I have seen WAY worse, at least his connections are soldered and he has twisted similar groups of wire together. (not to say its not a disaster!! it just could be worse)
     

Products Discussed in

To Top