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LR UCAs: ball joint replacement, ball joint hitting coils

Discussion in 'Suspension' started by Chickenmunga, Aug 11, 2013.

  1. Aug 11, 2013 at 12:10 PM
    #1
    Chickenmunga

    Chickenmunga [OP] Nuggety

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    Keizer, Oregon
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    All the normal TW BS
    1. My UCA bushings are worn out and I have a tear in the boot of the driver's ball joint. These are light racing UCAs. . Should I get new BJs or just the boot?

    2. Do you guys have this problem with the boot contacting the coil? Am I doing something wrong?

    Mikedriverfulldroop2_zps18a4e250_4017bc3360c9f326f9359526279604d5133a6e46.jpg
     
    Last edited: Aug 19, 2013
  2. Aug 11, 2013 at 12:12 PM
    #2
    steezinstangl

    steezinstangl Well-Known Member

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    hm thats strange, mine don't even come close.
     
  3. Aug 11, 2013 at 12:18 PM
    #3
    Texoma

    Texoma IG: Triple C Chop Shop

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    Chris(Topher)
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    A bunch a cool stickers, a bada ass MetalMiller Tx Longhorns grill emblem painted Hemi Orange, JBA long tube headers with o2 sims, Diff breather mod, Red LED interior lights, Fancy head unit that plays ipod n movies, Also DIY install factory stuff like, factory cruise control, factory intermittent wipers, OME nitro struts with 886x springs and toy tec top plate, JBA high caster UCA's for better alignmnet and dey beefier too, Old Man Emu Dakar leaf springs in da rear with the gear, U bolt flipper, Ivan Stewart TRD rims with 33" K Bro 2's, some bad ass weather tech floor liners so I don't muck up my interior, an ATO shackle flipper for mo travel in da rear wit the gear, also super shiny Fox 2.0 shocks back there too, all sorts of steal armor for bouncing off of the rocks like demello sliders, AP front skid, trans skid, n transfer skid, demello gas tank skid, and a tough as nails ARB bumper with warn 8k winch, I'm sure there's more
    I just replaced the boots on mine because one of them had a tear in it. After clearing all of the grease off the internals, I found zero sign of water or corrosion, so I regreased them with a synthetic lithium grease and put new boots on. If you didn't grease them initially when you first installed them, you may want to check their integrity before just replacing the boots as they don't come with enough grease to hold up over too long. I haven't had a problem with the BJ's contacting the spring, but I know others have, so they found where it contacts, and, depending on what strut set up you have, either turn the spring, or rotate the strut assembly.
     
  4. Aug 11, 2013 at 1:08 PM
    #4
    Chickenmunga

    Chickenmunga [OP] Nuggety

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    I'll see what I can do about rotating and inspecting. I need to check passenger side for the same effect.

    OME lift with 886 springs.

    39,780 miles on the UCAs.
     
  5. Aug 11, 2013 at 1:11 PM
    #5
    Texoma

    Texoma IG: Triple C Chop Shop

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    A bunch a cool stickers, a bada ass MetalMiller Tx Longhorns grill emblem painted Hemi Orange, JBA long tube headers with o2 sims, Diff breather mod, Red LED interior lights, Fancy head unit that plays ipod n movies, Also DIY install factory stuff like, factory cruise control, factory intermittent wipers, OME nitro struts with 886x springs and toy tec top plate, JBA high caster UCA's for better alignmnet and dey beefier too, Old Man Emu Dakar leaf springs in da rear with the gear, U bolt flipper, Ivan Stewart TRD rims with 33" K Bro 2's, some bad ass weather tech floor liners so I don't muck up my interior, an ATO shackle flipper for mo travel in da rear wit the gear, also super shiny Fox 2.0 shocks back there too, all sorts of steal armor for bouncing off of the rocks like demello sliders, AP front skid, trans skid, n transfer skid, demello gas tank skid, and a tough as nails ARB bumper with warn 8k winch, I'm sure there's more
    I think the spring cup on the OME's floats just as on the BLSTN 5100's, so you may be able to just rotate the spring.
     
  6. Aug 13, 2013 at 9:57 AM
    #6
    Benson X

    Benson X My build thread sucks...

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  7. Aug 13, 2013 at 10:46 AM
    #7
    Chickenmunga

    Chickenmunga [OP] Nuggety

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    Mike
    Keizer, Oregon
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    08 TRD Offroad DC 4x4 with stuff
    All the normal TW BS
    I sent pics and I talked with one of the techs (the offroad guy was out, so just a standard tech).
    He suggested:
    1. Replace the bushings to see if it limits downtravel
    2. Adjust the control arms so that the LCA is fully in and the UCA is fully out (or the other way around, I can't remember)

    #2 seems like a bad idea because that totally screws up camber, right?
    I'm going to try the strut rotation and pray for the best.

    SPC said they are really interested in solving the issue and working with me. They are super prompt and seem like a good group.
     
  8. Aug 13, 2013 at 10:49 AM
    #8
    evanmb31

    evanmb31 Well-Known Member

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    Satoshi'd grill. blacked out badges. aftermarket sound system. De-chromed and color matched. OME 885s + Dakars with 3rd leaf removed. LR UCAs. Scs stealth 6 with 285 duratracs. BAMF sliders
    My balljoints are no where near the coils at full droop with nitrochargers and 885s, with my icon extended travels on the balljoint boot contacts the coils at full droop, if the coil is spun properly and the camber is set 3/4 of the way out or more they do not contact.
     
  9. Aug 13, 2013 at 12:56 PM
    #9
    brutalguyracing

    brutalguyracing BIG DADDY

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    F.U> GUYZ
    broken mods
    kings at full droop
    [​IMG]
     
  10. Aug 13, 2013 at 2:51 PM
    #10
    Lumpskie

    Lumpskie Independent Thinker

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    Toytec 16" coilovers with Tundra Bilstein 5100s, Light Racing UCAs, Alcan Leafs with Orbit Eyes, 12" Bilstein 7100 short Bodies, ARB rear locker, 33x12.5 Duratracs, CBI sliders, Bushwacker fender flares, self made front bumper, M8000, Vision X 6.7" Hi/Lo Beam HIDs, full skids, Inchworm dual case setup - 15Âş clocking
    My UCAs look close to ^BrutalGuyRacing's setup at full droop... are you sure your UCAs are for a second gen taco? (aren't the 2nd gen UCAs a little longer than 1st gen?)
     
  11. Aug 13, 2013 at 3:39 PM
    #11
    Zac808

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    My LRs hit as well. Gonna switch to a uniball soon.:banghead:
     
  12. Aug 13, 2013 at 3:45 PM
    #12
    Seabass

    Seabass Give it to me. I'll break it for you

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    Just a bunch of old crap
    My driver's side LR UCA boot hits the spring at full droop, and hits it hard enough to tear, but not the passenger side (it does come close though). All settings are done correctly (completely out away from the truck, turned to correct direction). I just can't figure it out. I had the same issue running 885's and 886's, both with Billy 5100's set to 0. Everything else in the front is stock.
     
  13. Aug 13, 2013 at 3:47 PM
    #13
    Relik

    Relik Well-Known Member

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    Bilstein 5100s (Front & ext. Rear), Eibach coils @ 0, MaxTrac 4" Spindles, Light Racing UCAs, 1/4" lean spacer, All-Pro 3" Standard leafs, u-bolt flip kit, SpiderTrax 1.25" wheel spacers, 33" (285/70/17) TreadWright Warden A/T tires, extended lines
    Make sure that you set your UCA ball joint all the way out (the large nut on the UCA extended away from the vehicle). This might be your problem. There's three reasons its a good idea.

    1) leaves the adjustability to only your LCA (unless you really need to compensate for your lift and have to adjust camber at UCA)

    2) if it ever bumps out of place it is easy to tell and adjust it back to all the way out.

    3) gives you more clearance around the coil so won't hit. Mine barely touches the coil at full droop (with spindles and eibachs/5100s) and its just the very tip of the boot.
     
  14. Aug 13, 2013 at 3:48 PM
    #14
    Seabass

    Seabass Give it to me. I'll break it for you

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    Just a bunch of old crap
    Mine's all the way out (triple checked) so that's not the fix for everyone. Might be for some though.
     
  15. Aug 13, 2013 at 7:41 PM
    #15
    Zac808

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    Mines all the way out as well. Is the 5100 longer than OEM?
     
  16. Aug 13, 2013 at 10:59 PM
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    Chickenmunga

    Chickenmunga [OP] Nuggety

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    So did some looking.
    Mine are all the way out
    As mentioned, OME struts and 886 coils

    Benson X came over and we did some looking. It seems my driver coil needs a bit of rotating, but the passenger side is fine and still touches. I'll throw up pics tomorrow.
     
  17. Aug 13, 2013 at 11:23 PM
    #17
    Greytacoma1

    Greytacoma1 Senior Member

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    Could it be that maybe you don't have a sway bar?
     
  18. Aug 14, 2013 at 5:15 AM
    #18
    bjboucher

    bjboucher Mama says Tacoma World is da devil!

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    OME complete kit w/ 885s on Nitrocharger Sports, 1/4" spacers, Dakars w/ Nitrocharger Sports, LR UCAs, 265/70-17, Duratracs, G4 Elite tonneau, Weathertech Window Deflectors, Weathertech digital floor liners, factory JBL/Entune, rear differential breather relocate.
    I checked mine a while back when someone else mentioned this. I have no issues with mine....I had a good inch or so clearance from the coils at full droop.
     
  19. Aug 14, 2013 at 9:57 AM
    #19
    Chickenmunga

    Chickenmunga [OP] Nuggety

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    All the normal TW BS
    Good thinking. Seems like it would be lame if that's the solution, but I'll give that a try this weekend as well.


    Alright so here's all the research I could manage from last night

    This first photo is my truck taken about 9/21/2012 when my tires were new, so nothing has really changed.

    Mikedriverfulldroop2_zps18a4e250_4017bc3360c9f326f9359526279604d5133a6e46.jpg


    The rest are from last night. I compared to Benson X's truck. Not directly the same, but as good as we could do.

    Mike's truck: OME 886 coils, OME N140S shocks, 255/85/16 BFG KM/2, sway bar removed
    Ben's truck: OME 885 coils, OME 90k Nitro shocks, 285/70/17 Goodyear Wrangler MT/R (old style), sway bar removed


    Mike's truck

    We adjusted the driver's camber as far positive as we could go at the UCA ball joint, leaving the LCA alone. The passenger was already fully positive at the UCA.
    We weren't sure how to show off camber, so here's our not-so-scientific evaluation with the front fully lifted. The bar that Ben holds is more or less perpendicular to the ground, the truck is as level as we can attempt. Not sure what this proves, but we felt like you might like seeing it.

    cambertestdriver_zpsd4b1a12e_056474c73c64ed2ef0673463bd0b7116d4a47aa6.jpg

    cambertestpassenger_zpsd761c208_e0ca577940e5ed16f96c46a4005e7af814c941b8.jpg

    Here is a view of the old-style bushing that I will be replacing this weekend. New bushings will be SPEC-RIDE.

    OldBushing_zps5a4361be_2d95be1e6770353abf6d5c513f93aae526a47d17.jpg

    OldBushing2_zps7bf64716_11c2d584cdd03377ddddfad909f9fd9fa98c59f2.jpg

    Driver's side at ride height

    Mikedriverrideheight_zps24f47871_16297af5011147e022aa4ae528187350ebc95945.jpg

    Driver's side torn boot. I will be replacing the entire BJ this weekend.

    Mikeboottear_zps141c4321_3b95aeca942c97bd60d27b8df93d7c14b9f6eec7.jpg

    Driver's side at full droop. Notice the SPC logo is facing outward

    Mikedriverfulldroop_zps95b7d49b_6f31ead8b904dc0fff71efe0bd8813fbabd8f376.jpg

    Passenger full droop. Making contact on this side as well.

    Mikepassengerfulldroop2_zps0d8b6e10_79a25521e7f4869edc4a35bc5f6d76db253d8074.jpg

    Ben's truck

    Driver side full droop. His touch, but only the lightest amount, thanks to the spacing between the coils.

    Bendriverfulldroop_zps825e2113_b862c3cb2265521f2e78e93b637d7b38edebfd13.jpg

    Bendriverfulldroop2_zpsecd48e0b_fff5eeca2b130ab519a1d491ce8dfb1a70701b0f.jpg

    Passenger side full droop. Again, only lightly kissing

    Benpassengerfulldroop_zps8d3a9ff9_04e568759ec9f11d8059045c515a69b34b6035cc.jpg



    Notes/Thoughts

    One of the things we found is that my entire driver strut needs to do a 180°, as you can see from this service manual excerpt. The seating in the cup is fine. Please compare the below pictures to the first picture of my post

    spring_alignment_zps9869837e_c513c6e94bb8eb3c30341c67981a12a65456c84e.jpg

    spring_alignment_2_zps65845217_80624e6a4b684cf726cee95377605501ccbf193b.jpg

    The other thing to note between my vehicle and Ben is the different coils. I'm not sure if the diameters are any different (coil wrap or the actual metal), but the frequency of coils is increased, so where he has a void, I have another coil. I'm thinking that whether you hit or not is sometimes if you are within a void or if you are tapping.
     
    Last edited: Aug 14, 2013
  20. Aug 14, 2013 at 11:16 AM
    #20
    Seabass

    Seabass Give it to me. I'll break it for you

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    Interesting thought. Not sure how this would make one side not even come close, while the other side hits. Sway bar should only level out the up and down, not the side to side.
     

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