cab mount chop with my setup?

Although I am fairly new to tacomaworld I'm not new to car forums so I know how annoying repetitive and "didn't use the search feature" questions are but I've tried searching everywhere for my answers and have gotten no luck. So if this is repetitive I'm sorry but I'm just hoping to get input from someone with better knowledge than me or a similar setup.

I have a 2013 tacoma sport dbl cab mainly used for daily driver with some offroading. I am going with the bilstein adjustable 3" lift kit from toytec (part# BK0510). For wheels I want to run either the wheelers steel 16x8 type A or procomp 97 series 17x9 (will probably need 1/4" spacers with the procomp right?) both wheels have 0 offset and 4.5 backspace. The tires I want are the Toyo Open Country AT/II in 285/75/16 or 285/70/17 depending on which wheel I end up going with.

Now I know I'm gonna have to trim plastic for rubbing, I've already accepted that but I DO NOT want to do the cab mount chop. Does anyone know how much trimming I can expect and if I will have to do the cab mount chop? If I do need to do the cab mount chop I'm still open to different setup possibilities like going down to 275 for the tires. Thanks in advance!

 

Just do the 285s, they are an all terrain tire. If you were going M/T I'd say go with a 265. I'm running 285 KM2s without a CMC, it only rubs on the passenger side cab mount on bumps, hills, etc, general DD activites. If I start to flex the suspension it will rub on both sides but my KM2s are over 33.5" tall and 11.5" wide. You won't need wheel spacers with 4.5" BS and a 2-3" lift.

 

i have the same setup (toytec ultimate lift, 3" lift, 285's, 16x8, 0 offset, 4.5" backspace) and there was a fair amount of trimming. the mudflaps have to go and alot of plastic had to be trimmed back/off. you can see what was trimmed in the pics of my build (http://www.tacomaworld.com/forum/2nd-gen-builds/114029-netmonkeys-build.html).

i did the cab mount chop and i am glad that i did. if i hadnt, i think there would be quite a bit of rubbing. you can move the tire forward by adding a ton of caster (3.0+), but you will need aftermarket upper control arms to do so. at 2.5 caster, i have about 1/2" clearance at full lock.

someone correct me if i am wrong, but i think that if you went with 17x9 inch rims with 0 offset and 4.5" backspace, the tire would stick out farther and you would be more likely to rub.

in all honesty, there is nothing wrong with doing the cab mount chop. i am not sure why you are opposed to it. when you chop and box it, i think its actually stronger than stock. for me, doing the cab mount chop was piece of mind... i know i will never rub with the 285's.

 

I don't want to void my warranty and toyota said that I can do any lift I want as long as I don't do any frame work to it. Plus it's really hard for me to justify hacking or beating the hell out the cab mounts on a vehicle with less than 2000 miles. If it wasn't so new I probably would have already done the cmc. I don't mind trimming useless plastic though and I don't like the mudflaps to begin with so that's not a problem

 

I don't think that is a valid argument heh. Trimming unnecessary metal (albeit from the frame) won't void any warranty. Plenty of people on here say the CMC makes that part of the frame even stronger.

 

modifying your vehicle does not void your warrenty. the dealer is lying.
read: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Magnuson%E2%80%93Moss_Warranty_Act

i did mine at 9k miles.

i bet the dealer wouldnt even notice the cab mount chop anyway. here is mine. it looks like it came from the factory that way.

 

They can refuse the warranty work, only if they can prove the modification caused the issue. This is usually handled by Toyota Arbitration, if you refute the claim.

 

exactly.

so, for example, they cannot deny warrenty work on your air conditioning just because you added after market coils and shocks or even modified your cab mount. if you lifted your truck and your CV joints failed, they might have justification to deny warrenty work, but they are going to have a hard time proving that a cab mount chop did any damage to anything else on the truck.

 

I would still like to avoid the cmc if possible. I'm probably going to get everything put on and go from there on the cmc. No point in cutting em unless they're actually rubbing ya know. Any input on which size wheels would work better with less rubbing for this setup the 16x8 or 17x8? Essentially the same wheel I just read somewhere that the pro comp 17x9s have issues clearing the calipers for some reason that's why I was thinking the 1/4" spacers.

 

i would go with 16/17x8. the farther that your tires stick out, the larger radius that the tire will travel when turned. and thus more likely to hit your cab mount... especially if you add spacers to a 17x9 wheel.

 

The original post was supposed to say 17x8 sorry for the typo. Anyone heard or know of procomp steel 17x8 wheels rubbing the break caliper?