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Replacing U-Joints: Write Up

Discussion in '2nd Gen. Tacomas (2005-2015)' started by jangel2, Aug 23, 2013.

  1. Aug 23, 2013 at 5:15 PM
    #1
    jangel2

    jangel2 [OP] Active Member

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    Jared
    Lafayette, LA
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    '05 DC PreRunner
    Bilsteins in front @ 1.75, OMD Rear leafs, HID heads and fogs, dipped front grille and lower valence, red LEDs in dome and maps, map/dome mod, Custom Bed Rack and Sliders, 32" EYourLife LED Bar, 2 x 6" Side LED Bars, 2 Cube Work Lights and 6" LED Bed/Reverse Lights.
    Hi all, been a lurker a long time and figured I'd try my hand at a write up since I replaced two u-joints on my Tacoma today. I searched on here and the web to find out why my truck was squeaking while I was in reverse backing out of my driveway, and I found out it to be a worn U-joint.

    IMPORTANT: Use white out if at all possible, and/or chalk or a marker, but try hard to get white out since its the easiest to see and won't disappear in the wd-40. Use this to mark a line down your driveshaft. You want this thing going back in in the same orientation it came out. I had a marker and I could barely make out the mark I made with a marker at the end.

    IMG_0414_zpsc755aadc_ea22bf869150e995b8b7bb472ea42fbfe99c128d.jpg

    To start here's the project truck:
    2005 Desert Sand Tacoma DCSB

    IMG_0405_zpsf959f238_bd7471044b2acc07b6304ce2b5def36ea03a903a.jpg

    And the work areas:

    IMG_0406_zps83a69450_d80976012be4ca7d6cbb932a8517abda34db4e77.jpg

    IMG_0407_zps622e3a84_5c95694806630087cbb694ac843c57454a4c3a82.jpg

    Tools I used to replace my U-Joints:

    IMG_0408_zpsbf0d1d6e_b116f9f9b94c71734a8411e769657d9da5c3965c.jpg

    IMG_0409_zps9c4b0c15_c683f5223a0768b0442b8d93613e9e66685b2bea.jpg

    O'Reilly Ball/U-Joint Press
    IMG_0410_zps2c87dcd5_d3f37f951072480b34f9ec3346ae12861b89d43f.jpg

    To start we need to remove the bolts from the rear differential:

    IMG_0411_zpsded0ab4e_1f1081d962f87a3f180069715fa9334575b29034.jpg

    Then the center carrier bearing support:

    IMG_0415_zps20446c8b_c3fb62df6250a81afe9ad0a7465d555bb0c1a0ed.jpg

    Then pull the drive shaft out of the transmission and set it on the side:

    IMG_0417_zpsbf7d6f61_1b50b6315a04c4337d1c642796ea1cd419dbe1b1.jpg

    IMG_0418_zps1d467483_fbb31c2208b5d4f5ae3edd7847d420ad0ad0f862.jpg

    Next we need to remove the snap rings with some needle nose pliers, I flat head screwdriver comes in handy here so you can slip it under the snap ring to help wedge it out:

    IMG_0420_zps28693b83_d6855c251487e912187179f72ad1b96c1241d93d.jpg

    IMG_0421_zps7a92d20c_9989d7190b8cc775d7dd287b06889a5491416c52.jpg

    Now using your U-joint press, we need to press out the old U-joints:

    IMG_0422_zps859d92c1_e786151263e6ebdc696ed5c7a2a9587fda0bfb79.jpg

    Once you punch the opposite cap out far enough, its easier to remove the cap with a pair of pliers, just twist and pull outwards:

    IMG_0424_zpsb6275a1a_e3fda6f08c3c6449de135a11b637ff49dd2b5f80.jpg

    Then press in reverse now to punch the opposite cap out:

    IMG_0425_zps6baab951_cf05a76917fb7c689c0513e3282689c47e5ab17d.jpg

    I started with the front U-Joint, so now I will remove the other two caps:

    IMG_0427_zps109a60e8_2aa2b2a72ed1327df7659cd7ab159b8d992cfff7.jpg

    And now we have a removed U-Joint:

    IMG_0428_zps661d302d_277be947cf14fe79b5e74f6fafe71d238907ee5f.jpg

    Now the rear U-Joint:

    IMG_0429_zps30e05fd5_c27d99608842d5d48b96dcee0dfad5d6829c2df6.jpg

    AH-HA here is the culprit to the squeaking, rusted out needle bearings:

    IMG_0430_zps9a73b675_7b0ea3e8679a07aab85ba97e8f4b60a3c0be39c7.jpg

    This is when I noticed after removing the rear bracket that this drivetrain is not stock, Spicer:

    IMG_0431_zps761f2eb5_0f3d64c082857d6a68db7c44490188723e90cf7f.jpg

    So then I went ahead and packed them with some good lithium grease for extra wear protection, these two joints have zerks for future greasing, but just want to get some good grease in there for the time being:

    IMG_0432_zps119536e6_90ae03a1bfb9e868a82ef92bf46dd2ba4a147eef.jpg

    Now before reinserting the new U-Joints clean out your snap ring grooves and knock out any spurs of metal that could impede inserting the caps:

    IMG_0433_zps09ddee6b_055355e28959c445978ef31a3da57580f3751bba.jpg

    So now begin reinserting the U-joints and caps, make sure your U-Joints are inbetween your two bracket ends before you press in your caps:

    IMG_0434_zps4a8cc617_4801fe1c1d047e48a7e9c1c5d77b682e22844616.jpg

    After you get your caps pressed just past the snap ring grooves, its a good idea to go ahead and insert your snap rings:

    IMG_0435_zps9e255456_a5c60fc74eaf740b45b887cb90f1f0058f66bf91.jpg

    So lets finish this one up with the press here:

    IMG_0436_zps9c2543df_69ebad6b3ad2d6cf49c5d06d46ab0f758c53190e.jpg

    Good to go on this one:

    IMG_0437_zpsbd12e564_79587092a402251d64f35985c54352c54a863ed7.jpg

    Now the last one:

    IMG_0438_zps515e8320_131a0918a5234684287c560034ab069d5b9f7785.jpg

    And here we go back under the truck:

    IMG_0439_zps8c3d5702_bae8bede41c03b40553fac5037cfa13f7edc17c4.jpg

    To put the driveshaft back in we want to start by making sure to insert the front back into the transmission first:

    IMG_0440_zps8b3c25c6_cf1e95fac1afb5155fc87c37017dbe781b0f3d91.jpg

    Go ahead and leave the screws for the carrier loose so we have some wiggle room for bolting up to the rear diff:

    IMG_0441_zpsc45e001a_7cb055795cc92d10171e2abd50af09f1b3f460f7.jpg

    Then once you have everything bolted together, you can tighten it all up and go out and make sure your good to go.

    Now after redoing these U-Joints, as I've shown you in previous pictures, almost all the smaller components minus the drive shaft have been replaced with spicer parts. Had a feeling once I got this truck it wear faster than others, when i saw the trailer brake controller in the driver footwell.
     
  2. Aug 23, 2013 at 7:05 PM
    #2
    92dlxman

    92dlxman drinking whats on sale

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    5100s, ome884s, wheelers aal kit, and some rustoleum
    awesome writeup, thank you!
     
  3. Aug 23, 2013 at 7:28 PM
    #3
    BUZZCUT

    BUZZCUT Well-Known Member

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    Looks as though you replaced 2 out of 3. Why not all so you don'r have to muck around this that job again for a long time?
     
  4. Aug 23, 2013 at 7:34 PM
    #4
    Jimmyh

    Jimmyh Well-Known Member

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    I noticed you said to use white out to make the Match Marks on the drive line components.

    I have always used a center punch to mark alignment points on them. You can see and feel them and they will not rub off, ever!

    Like This:

    .|.
     
    Krusey1011 and Pugga like this.
  5. Aug 23, 2013 at 7:34 PM
    #5
    afd23a

    afd23a Well-Known Member

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    The Dynamo of Dixie
    Vehicle:
    05 Access Cab 5 Lugger
    Factory Fog Lights, Removed Secondary Air Filter, Metra Ipod Adapter, Int Wiper Stalk, Wet Okole's, URD Short Shifter, Scanguage II w/Blendmount, Fat Bob's 2.75" spacer lift, ARE topper, SP Performance Pads & Slotted Rotors, 4.10 gears
    I'm pretty sure toyota used spicer components in the factory driveshaft. I noticed the spicer stamp on mine too in more than one place. Good write up by the way. I used a small triangle file to make a small mark on the flanges so I could line them back up.
     
    Gunshot-6A, Hartford and Ahougland89 like this.
  6. Aug 23, 2013 at 7:39 PM
    #6
    TACO TX

    TACO TX Well-Known Member

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    My question is why you did this barefoot? Lol
     
    JustinL and File IFR like this.
  7. Aug 23, 2013 at 7:42 PM
    #7
    XXXX

    XXXX Well-Known Member

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    why not?

    you only need sandals for welding
     
    Wulf, JustinL, DGXR and 2 others like this.
  8. Aug 24, 2013 at 7:40 AM
    #8
    jangel2

    jangel2 [OP] Active Member

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    Jared
    Lafayette, LA
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    '05 DC PreRunner
    Bilsteins in front @ 1.75, OMD Rear leafs, HID heads and fogs, dipped front grille and lower valence, red LEDs in dome and maps, map/dome mod, Custom Bed Rack and Sliders, 32" EYourLife LED Bar, 2 x 6" Side LED Bars, 2 Cube Work Lights and 6" LED Bed/Reverse Lights.
    I don't know, just originally was going to replace the rear diff U-Joint but I figured the two with the most stress put on them would be the front and rear. In hindsight, should have replaced the middle U-Joint. I don't drive the Tacoma too hard so it hopefully it won't shit the bit again.



    More dexterity, my fiance said when she pulled up I looked like a monkey by the way I had my feet straddling both sides of the drive shaft while cranking on the ratchet. I can't tell y'all how much easier this would have been if I had a bench vise.
     
  9. Aug 19, 2014 at 1:50 PM
    #9
    Bscheffer

    Bscheffer New Member

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    Nice write up. I'm preparing for doing this over the weekend. What did you torque the bolts back to? Also any recommendations on grease to use?
     
  10. Aug 19, 2014 at 3:19 PM
    #10
    Hans Moleman

    Hans Moleman Well-Known Member

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    Yes this is good write up with the HF u-joint press.

    Most write ups use a hammer to pound the u-joint which is not good.
     
  11. Aug 20, 2014 at 7:51 AM
    #11
    jangel2

    jangel2 [OP] Active Member

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    I went 65 ft/lbs at the rear and 54 ft/lbs at the carrier housing.

    I just used some lithium grease I got at OReilly's when I rented the press.
     
  12. Jul 21, 2015 at 9:57 PM
    #12
    Atron22

    Atron22 Well-Known Member

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    What are the u joint part numbers? I'm going to be replacing all 3.
     
  13. Jul 22, 2015 at 5:03 AM
    #13
    CroResident

    CroResident Well-Known Member

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    very nice write up! :thumbsup:
     
  14. Aug 11, 2015 at 7:43 AM
    #14
    OffsetPlayer2

    OffsetPlayer2 Cornbread fed

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    subd for most likely this weekend. Nice write up. Now just got to find somewhere to rent the tool. Don't really want to pay $115 right now for it.
     
  15. Aug 11, 2015 at 7:49 AM
    #15
    Pugga

    Pugga Pasti-Dip Free 1983 - 2015... It was a good run

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    x2, I did the same thing. Center punch so I could not mess it up when I reinstalled.

    Also, stock is Spicer. When I replaced mine, I used Spicer parts, they're pricey but the Moog ones I bought first were shit and didn't fit very well at all. I fought them the whole way.
     
    TacoTuesday!! likes this.
  16. Aug 11, 2015 at 8:09 AM
    #16
    jangel2

    jangel2 [OP] Active Member

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    Just head to oreilly and get one for a deposit. Or really any of the auto stores.
     
  17. Aug 11, 2015 at 7:28 PM
    #17
    Jimmyh

    Jimmyh Well-Known Member

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    I have always used a bench vise.
     
    DougSD likes this.
  18. Sep 22, 2015 at 7:31 PM
    #18
    rokedawg

    rokedawg Active Member

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    thanks for the writeup! Changed 3 joints and one of them was rusted out just like in your picture. What a difference that made! not only did it fix the low speed vibration and the squeaking and cracking pops but the jerk when i let go of gas also stopped. It drives so smooth now. That makes me think that the rusting had already started when i bought the truck used 3 years ago because it jerked from day one. I am going to be greasing them suckers diligently twice a year from now on. Now if i could only figure out how to get the grease gun fitting on the zerks on the joints on the front drive shaft...
     
  19. Jan 11, 2016 at 4:55 PM
    #19
    ebulang

    ebulang Active Member

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    What is the part number of the u joint spicer you used?
     
    Last edited: Jan 11, 2016
  20. Apr 28, 2016 at 4:26 PM
    #20
    KeithB

    KeithB Well-Known Member

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    Wheels and Tires: 17x8" Ultra Goliath wheels with P285/70R17 Falken Wildpeak AT3/W tires, Suspension: Fox coilovers set at 2", TC UCA's, 1.5" lift 3 leaf pack with overload left in Other: TRD SS exhaust, Pioneer AVIC 4100 H/U with Android Auto (awesomeness), sat radio bluetooth, Accessories: Toyota roof rack, black Toyota running board steps, cargo divider, weathertech floor liners, Literider roll up soft tonneau, thule bars over tonneau, USB ports front and rear, seat heaters, birddawg mirror riser Cosmetic: window tint, grillcraft black mesh upper/lower grill, vinyl armrest in doors, Clazzio black seat covers with blue stitch, Redline steering wheel wrap Lighting: fogs only mod, back up lights, amber interior accent lighting, amber 10" LED light bar in hood scoop, 33" LED bar behind the lower grill, amber lamin-x on fog lights, Tacomabeast headlights and matching tails.
    Subd. Doing my u joint soon
     

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