Wiring LED lightbar to high beams

It works!! However there is a glitch... No light comes on to verify it's toggled and the headlights come on even if the actual dial on the column lever is switched to off.

 

Well that's not good. Damn, your 4Runner is a PITA to wire

Back to the drawing board, let me think about that one for a minute...

So if you switch it one way, the LED bar comes on, do the headlights come on in this position?

The other position, they LED bar comes on with the high beams but if you put the switch in this position, the headlights stay on regardless of the truck's switch position?

 

I found this online for negatively switched vehicles. I'm still looking for more info on them.

 

Am I the only one this doesn't make sense to? No offense at all to the OP. I'm just trying to figure out why you would want to wire it like this...
Seems redundant to have to hit a SWITCH
in order for your hi beam SWITCH to turn it on... why not just have an on/off switch for it and only have to hit one switch?

 

Yep, you're the only one this doesn't make sense to. You can leave the switch on, and the light bar comes on when you cycle the high beams on and cuts off when you cycle them off. OR, because technically the LED bar isn't street legal, if you turn the switch off, your high beams cycle by themselves normally, OEM function.

 

Bump, what happens with your lights with the switches are in each position?

 

Kind of makes sense if you use the LED bar enough. Regarding street legality, do they need to be covered or anything on the street?

 

Depends on local laws.

I want to do this because i want to be able to use the light bar with my high beams while driving. Its legal here. Well maybe not technically but they don't ticket people for lighting here. However, i want to be able to have it not come on if i am in an area where its not legal.

I also want to be able to use the light as a spot light independant of the headlights. Since the led has such a low draw, i will probably, at times, use it with the truck off and want to be able to turn it on independant of whatever else i have on or off.

 

If I'm using my high beams then obviously it's because there is no traffic. More light is better right? Why have to turn my high beams off and light bar off separately when I can just wire them to my high beams and have them come on with them. People having been doing this for years. The only difference is I'm wanting the option to have one switch do dual functions. So not only can it work with my high beams but I can also use the led light bar independently when I'm not necessarily using my headlights. I can leave the led bar on for a long amount of time with the truck off and it especially wont drain my battery as much as if I had to have my headlights on.

I figured LED light bar's on the street are illegal. These things blind traffic. I do however have a pair of square 3" x 3" 4 led pods with yellow tint over the lens and I use them on the road in traffic often. I've never been bright lighted for them nor have I been pulled over for them. The light output isn't crazy. I think they're around 1300 lumens a piece. With the vinyl tint on them they're probably dumbed down to around 900 lumens.

Sorry, I've been pretty busy this weekend. Ended up going to the offroad park and watching some ultra 4 racing yesyterday. The switch operates properly, the only thing that is weird is that it controls the headlights when toggling it for the high beam function. It doesn't turn on the brights like before, just turns the headlights on. I have to be careful not to accidentally bump it because the light on the switch doesn't come on when toggled up right away, not unless the high beams are toggled. So, when the high beams are toggled the light on the switch comes on. The independent function of the switch works and lights up when toggled.

I don't drive around much at night but when I do I use the light bar whenever I have the possibility to use my brights. So it made sense for me to eliminate having to toggle both on and off separately. I don't have to have it covered, I just don't use it in traffic. 30" is way to bright to use in oncoming traffic. It puts out around 7500 lumens. Like I said, I use my led pods with yellow vinyl tint on the lens as fog lights. They seem to work well in inclement weather and not bother other drivers.

 

Right on. I guess it depends what you need the LEDs for. I just don't want to get pulled over for something stupid like having the LED bar though, even if it's not on in traffic

 

Hook the low current side of your light bar relay to be energized when your high beams are on. Very very simple and easy.

 

I was given a suggestion to move the jumper that's currently on 5 to 2 to be put on 4 to 2.

 

Sorry man, you get this figured out? I've been away dealing with medical stuff for a while.

 

lol, no.. I need to go buy some female spade connectors. I've just been putting it off cus it works how I want it aside from the minor glitch. Just have to be mindful about the switch being off before I get out the truck. In case I may have bumped it or something.

 

Finally actually wired my light bar up this weekend.

Followed the wiring on here more or less.

Drew up the schematic i actually used with another member on here


Was able to just use a fuse splitter to tap in to one of the high beam fuses and not have to splice to the high beam wire.

I ended up using prongs 4, 5, 6, because the switch remained illuminated at all times when using 1, 2, 3. If I did it again I would probably go with the SPDT switch now that I have actually done the wiring and understand where the current is flowing better.

so now I have a light bar that is on anytime/off/on with highbeams

relay/ground (used the neg ground for the battery)


high beam tap (with my fog light on anytime mod)


thanks for all the input guys!

 

OK so I'm no wiring genius so after i talked to the guys at OTRATTW they said that this switch will be the one that i should use VJD2UHTB DPDT on/off/on 10 point switch with my application so if anyone could help me out that would be great im going to be putting both my fog lights and off road lights on the same switch when in the down position the fog lights will be on but in the up position im going to have both the fog and off road lights turn on does anyone have or could help with the wiring diagram, it would be most helpful the diagram that OTRATTW is not very clear on what wires would go where and what ones would i connect together to get it to work the way i want it to other then powering the led lights. also this switch will be replacing the push fog light switch for lack of space with all other factory switches taking up all other slots

 

sub'd

 

Quick question for you geniuses of the LED lights Ive got a 30" dual row bar I just installed and I've got it rigged as of now and I want to run it so that I can turn it on whenever I want but I don't really want to tie it into the high beams. Need some help on where to get the switch for it and what kind of relay I'm going to need. I'm kinda new to this mess so don't kill me.

 

Ok thread revival time. I'm looking to do something similar with my light bar and D2s on the same(one) switch. I do not want to run a hot wire from the battery through the firewall to a switch, something about that thought doesn't sit well with me.

Background:
I've done the fog anytime no splice mod and I have a second pair of D2s I want to come on with my 20" bar. As in anytime on/off/on with high beams. Currently the D2s are on a 15 amp fuse and the light bar is also on a separate 15 amp fuse with Rigid's supplied wiring harnesses. I analyzed both Puggas and Chipnoreos solution and I'd like to propose a different perspective on this matter.

Proposed solution:

EDIT: 30A fuses and 30A Relays are overkill for this circuit, 20A @ 20 Gauge wire will be sufficient.

I used 3 relays in this method however I would prefer to use only two (one if possible). The top relay controls the always on part of my problem and the bottom two relays control the on with high beams checking. The lower left relay checks switch position for my rocker switch while the lower right relay checks my high beams. Once both are true, it completes the circuit. I based my hastily drawn diagram off of the SPDT switch from OTRATTW party number listed. My solution puts only two wires through my firewall carrying minimal voltage to two relays. All other hot wires in the engine compartment. Does anybody have any suggestions or tips? Thanks

I'm going to go back to the drawing board to see if I can't get away with using a SPDT relay to reduce my relay count by one, however I'm not sure if there is such a relay for automotive purposes.

-J

 

Mud, you severely over complicated the wiring for what you're trying to accomplish. One DPDT switch and one relay is all you need. You will need to run a wire from the battery through the firewall to the switch though, or else find switched power inside the cab. If the wire is fused in the engine bay, there is no issue with running the wire through the fire wall. That diagram you have there is going to be a nightmare, especially if anything goes wrong. You have a lot of unnecessary wires and hardware to troubleshoot. Keep it simple.