LBJ urgent help

I'm changing my LBJs and I got moog lowers and when I was putting the 4 bolts in that came with them ball joints and I snapped one of them off. I got it out of the spindle but now I'm confused because the Haynes manual said 105ft/lbs and I wasn't even there yet on my torque wench. So is it really supposed to be 105ft/lbs or it's my wrench garbage. Should I reuse the factory lower bolts or go get some grade 8 bolts from the hardware store


Tapatalk

 

Fuck me running. I looked at the ft/lbs for the stud, not the mounting bolts. Mounting bolts say 43ft/lbs, is that correct?

 

Yeah no way the 4 14mm bolts can take 100 ft lbs

 

at 43 ftlbs, i should think grade 8's should be fine, if the manual says not to reuse the old ones then don't

 

Yeah they deff can't. I'm just glad I got it out of the spindle with a drill bit and screwdriver before the lock tight set

 

Yeah man, you way over torqued em. That 105 was for the main ball stud. 45-50 ft-lbs and put some blue loctite on em

 

Are the factory ones longer than the moogs?

 

What are you referring to? The bolts are the same. The part that connects to the tie rod is a little different, so you will need to align it

 

The bolts moog supplies with with the ball joint... I could have sworn the toyota bolts were longer than the moog ones. The part is the same dimensions so unless it was ridiculously worn out there's no need for an alignment

 

The bolts are the same

 

I didn't hold any bolts side by side but length shouldn't matter to much if its only a couple of threads. Anyway I used red loc tight and I had to have it aligned because I did inner and outer ties also

 

Toyota spec is 59 lbs with thread locker for the bolts and FWIW there have been instances of "to short" bolts supplied with OEM joints. They came with 2 correct and 2 of the shorties. It happened to me twice, about a year apart. The short bolts would only reach about 5 threads and did not engage all the threads on the 2 inner (diff side) holes. The inner holes are "through" holes and have minimum threads from the get go.


These are what came in the sealed OEM package, 2 of each. The short ones did not fully penetrate the inner holes by a couple of threads.

 

I think I may have grossly over-torqued the 4 mounting bolts and the castle nut on the DS when I installed yesterday. My torque wrench much need calibration or is malfunctioning b/c I def feel like I went waaay past 59ft lbs, and I put soo much torque on the castle nut that I snapped the 1/2"->3/8" socket adapter clear off

I backed the 4 mounting bolts off a little, and used blue loctite.

Ya think its gtg? Or should I remove the bolts, buy a new torque wrench, and replace the bolts with new ones?

 

Id replace the bolts with ones from the dealer. Couple extra bucks to sleep easy at night. I have the torque specs ill post later tonight. Im Posting from phone atm.

 

As you have no idea of the state of the bolt and they are quite important bolts, I'd suggest replacing and torquing properly. Part No. 90119-10933, MSRP is about $1.50 ea. Well worth not having your spindle fall off and jam your wheel into the body. They may be fine but since you don't know how much torque you put on them, why take the chance.

If you lived down the street, I'd give you the extra ones I have from my last work on the LCAs.

 

Yea thought so.. Luckily I have a dealer within 5min. Idk wtf happened to the wrench.. It was a good quality clicker type that was working fine up until then

 

Note that torque specs with LBJ protector are different than without protector. Hope this helps.

 

Make sure you read the ft lbs column when adjusting your torque wrench! Snapped the head off the first bolt I tightened to 80 ft lbs today!!! Then about 45 mins later I realized what I'd done.