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Removing Upper ball joint

Discussion in '1st Gen. Tacomas (1995-2004)' started by SacYota, Nov 2, 2013.

  1. Nov 2, 2013 at 2:41 PM
    #1
    SacYota

    SacYota [OP] Member

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    Sup guys,

    I'm new here and was looking for other ideas of removing the upper ball joint from the UCA. I've tried the "fork" to split it out, but no luck. I've tried heating around the ringof the UCA and again no luck of taking it out. DW-40 and PB blaster to soak but still didn't work after hitting n tapping it with the sledge and mallet. Any ideas?

    20131102_131957.jpg
    20131102_132004.jpg
     
    Last edited: Nov 2, 2013
  2. Nov 2, 2013 at 2:51 PM
    #2
    KenLyns

    KenLyns 8.75" Third Member

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    Get a pitman arm puller: I used it when replacing my UCAs. Didn't feel like smashing suspension parts with a hammer.

    Use it like this (steering stabilizer shown, but works the same way on your UCA):

    [​IMG]
     
    Last edited: Nov 2, 2013
  3. Nov 3, 2013 at 8:10 AM
    #3
    tacomataco2

    tacomataco2 A dude

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    Some of this Some of that
    Different size pickle fork? sometimes you have to jack up the LCA to make the UCA flatter and really bash the fork to get separation..
     
  4. Nov 3, 2013 at 8:21 AM
    #4
    JLee

    JLee The Man! Vendor

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    I lost track thousands of dollars ago.
    Take loosen castle nut and hit the spindle with hammer it will pop right out. using the fork can eat up the ball joint.
     
  5. Nov 3, 2013 at 8:40 AM
    #5
    runyun

    runyun Well-Known Member

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    I would also flip the castle nut..


    which reminds me, which would you guys recommend when doing upper bj's:
    OEM or Moog

    Same price (roughly) but I've noticed Moogs are built a lil more heavy duty.
    (sorry to threadjack)
     
  6. Nov 3, 2013 at 9:15 AM
    #6
    KenLyns

    KenLyns 8.75" Third Member

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    The ball joint boot is already destroyed (or maybe that's why the OP wanted to change it in the first place).

    The rule of thumb is to hit what the tapered stud goes through, which on 2nd gens means hammering the spindle. On 1st gens you'd have to hammer the UCA, which can damage the UCA.
     
  7. Nov 3, 2013 at 9:15 AM
    #7
    Alderleet

    Alderleet Ace of Spades

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    I've found that hitting it with heat, then cooling it rapidly with penetrating oil, and maybe a light tap with a pickle fork, and the front shocks will do all the work.
     
  8. Nov 3, 2013 at 9:25 AM
    #8
    BCephus

    BCephus Alright then

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    OME 886/dakar heavy, ARB bumper, 9.5XP warn, PDM tranquil kit, custom bullet hole tailgate anti theft kit, Camburg ball joint UCAs, Centerforce II clutch, FJ cruiser TRD wheels (black) with 285/75/16 Ds (white letters out, (Duh))
    Raybestos professional, which is the same as top tier NAPA stuff. They even use the same "sales" video. I would also put the castle nut back on to catch everything when it does come loose. Also, make sure there is some force in addition to gravity (pry bar, pitman arm puller etc) pushing the control arm and spindle apart while you are hitting it. Looks like you made some additional tire clearance also. Good luck bro.
     
  9. Nov 5, 2013 at 9:00 PM
    #9
    JLee

    JLee The Man! Vendor

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    I lost track thousands of dollars ago.
    You can just hit the spindle on the 1st gens as well. Ive lifted about 20 and it works every time.
     
  10. Nov 6, 2013 at 7:01 AM
    #10
    se7enine

    se7enine MCMLXXIX

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    lucky for me I was replacing both the UCA and Ball Joint so I just hammered and ground away to get it out. Although my ball joint separated real easy from the UCA. But the week leading up to the job I was soaking with PB Blaster everyday.
     

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