Mod Day. Mod 2. Installing power point in center console -clean look, LOTS OF PICS-

There was two things I wanted to do in mod 2:


1. The lid broke off my power point below the AC controls. I have this OCD to where I have to have everything clean and original in my truck.


Picture 1:





Therefore I went to my local Toyota dealership and purchased a new power point sleeve.


Picture 2:





2. I wanted to install a power point in my center console and have it look nice and clean.


My 2003 Toyota Camry has a self closing power point in the center console.


So what I did is I purchased the power point assembly from a local junk yard and decided to install it in my 2013 Tacoma.


While removing the power point assembly from the Camry in the junk yard, I broke the sleeve, so I went ahead and ordered one from my local Toyota dealership:


This was the part number:






Picture 3 and 4:








Ok, now the destruction begins!


I went ahead and opened up my center console and emptied all the junk out. I pulled out the little mat at the bottom, and using a 10MM socket and ratchet I undid the two bolts that were at the bottom.


Once I did this, I pulled out the cup holder that is closer to the AC controls. It's in there pretty tight, but I pulled on it hard enough for it to come out. Its set in there with four clips.


Picture 5.





At this point, I was able to stick my hand down there and pop out the plastic cover that has the other cup holder directly in front of the center console. (Remember to unscrew the shift knob)


After this, I pulled out the center console housing by removing two little black screws (seen as empty screw holes in picture 6). Then I removed the screws that hold the shifter housing to the shifter assembly (pointing with my finger).


Picture 6.





This section now pulls out and the center area will look like this.


Picture 7.





I then proceeded to pop out the AC controls.


I did this by using a butter knife with the tip wrapped in tape to prevent scratching the trim. I stuck it right at a corner and popped the AC controls out.


Pictures 8 and 9.








There are two plugs behind the AC controls, these come out with ease.


Once this was done, I had to pop out the radio head unit. YES. the radio head unit.


I did this by removing four 10MM bolts under the unit.


Picture 10.





Now in order for me to remove the center console that holds the power points below the AC controls, I have to remove the radio head unit face plate.


That comes out by taking the following steps.


I popped out the driver's door bottom plastic foot plate. This is not held down by screws, so I used a small screw driver to start it and once it popped off, I used my fingers.


Picture 11.



I then popped off the foot rest at the bottom. This goes out by pulling outwards. No screws, just clips.


Picture 12.





I then proceeded to remove the rubber screw cap that is revealed after pulling out the foot rest (see picture 12).


This allowed me to remove the side panel, which is also held down by a few clips.


Picture 13.





Once I removed this side panel, I was able to take out a 10MM bolt (see picture 13 for location).


I then pulled out the following two trays. These trays pull straight out.


Picture 14 and 15.








Next step is to remove the bottom cover. This cover is held down by the 2 10 MM bolts, the first one was removed in picture 13 and the second one will be removed in picture 16.


Picture 16





After this bolt was removed, I carefully unplugged the switches to the left of the steering wheel (mirror controls, hood lever, etc)


Picture 17





Once the bottom cover was out of the way I needed to remove a black metal bracket that wraps around the steering wheel and is held down with 3 10MM bolts.


Picture 18





Now I needed to remove the cover for the instrument panel.


This was done by locating two push clips


Picture 19





The center of these push clips must be pressed by a thin screwdriver.

Once they push in, I was able to pull them out.

Picture 20
The push clips come out like this





The push clips must be separated like this to go back in later.

Picture 21





Once the push pins are out, I pulled out the instrument panel cover slightly, just enough to be able to pull out the head unit faceplate.


Picture 22





oooo were not done yet.

Now we need to remove the glove compartment.

This is done by removing the plastic "shock absorber" (shown in picture 23) and pulling the glove compartment straight out. Remember to push the ends at the inner top to "release it" (picture 24).

Picture 23





Picture 24





After the glove compartment is set aside, I am able to FINALLY pull the head unit faceplate out! This is being held down by clips only.

Picture 25





Picture 26





Finally, I was able to remove the console below the AC controls!


Remove 10 MM bolt to the right of the center console below the AC controls.


This will be visible after removing the glove compartment.


Picture 27





At this point, I was able to pull out the center console below the AC controls, this was finally held down by clips, and wiring to the power points and USB connector.


Picture 28





Picture 29





So I took the set up inside the house and worked on it.


It took awhile, but I was able to pull out the cig lighter out of it, and then the sleeve popped right out.


Picture 30 , 31 , 32, 33














Now part 1 of this mod is complete!


Now I went and located the center console and the materials for the last part of this mod.


Picture 34





I located a spot where I wanted the power point at and used a 15/15" spade bit to drill a hole.


Picture 35





I then used a box cutter knife to cut out the "notch" in the cig lighter sleeve.


Once this was done, I dropped in the sleeve (I had to trim the hole a bit more with the spade bit and clean it with the box cutter knife).


Picture 36





Picture 37





And again, it has a self closing lid!


Picture 38





I then wired connectors to the bottom wires.


Picture 39





Trimmed the small mat to fit around the power point lid

Picture 40





and finally attached connectors (blue connector tips) to the end of wiring that I had previously routed for this project. I ran two wires from my blue sea box, one positive, one ground. Ran them thru the firewall grommet and down to the center console area. Used a 10 amp red fuse, the last one towards the front of the truck. Just make sure you get the polarity right on the wiring or it won't work. The cigarette plugs are not reverse polarity.


Picture 41




Picture 42



Picture 43

 

This requires another beer!


Mod 1 was shown on this thread:


http://www.tacomaworld.com/forum/2n...mod-day-mod-1-installing-beer-opener-bed.html

 

Nicely done. A lot of break down to change a sleeve. Didn't realize it was that much work.

 

Good job! Thanks for all the pics and explanation. Need to change a power point cover myself. Almost broke the lower panel when I was adding LEDs in the cubbies. Now I know the correct way to disassemble.

 

Nice documentation. Thanks for the details. That's a lot of work. Note to self: Don't break off your power point cover.

 

id like to see how you wired in the outlet in your console. i tried to do something similar this week and i couldn't get my outlet to work.

 

I added two more pictures and a few more steps on my wiring. Make sure you have your polarities correct.

see revised steps after picture 40

 

Nice work. You better hope Santa doesn't bring you a console vault........

 

How hard was it to just remove the center console on its own or can you without removing a bunch of other stuff.
I'm looking at running power to it from the battery and just come up threw the floorboard or one of the rubber bushings that I see in you pictures.

 

Great job! I'm loving your OCD as well as the detailed write-up! I feel the same way about fixing things like this but not sure I'd go through this much trouble but if it ever happens....I'll be prepared!

 

For just the center console on its own do all the steps until you get to the center console part.

Take out the bolts under the mat in the center console.

Remove the two screws that attach it to the shifter housing, lift and pull to release the center console and voila!

you are able to see the rubber grommet you were talking about in the other thread.

 

This thread kicks ass.
Your steps can be used for so many other things.
Thanks for posting this again.

 

Maybe a dumb question, but why not just splice into the existing plugs and run it to the consol from there?

 

DONT QUOTE THE ORIGINAL POST!! takes forever to scroll though that again.

Awesome work on this post, it should be a sticky because as stated earlier it can be used for so many projects. Awesome work man.

 

Existing plugs are ignition powered, not battery powered. Plus the OP has auxiliary fuse box, so he wired the plug up to that one.

 

This should be a rule. I was a Mod on many forums and this was a bannible (sp?) offense. just type (OP) and question.

Nothing worse than seeing same pics over and over in from an Original post.

 

No doubt that huge quote wasn't necessary but this thread is awesome. Thanks for the work in putting it together. How did you wire the power to the 12v outlet? I am working on a 2nd battery set up under the hood and have the blue sea fuse panel there too. One of the items which will be hooked up to the 2nd battery/fuse panel is a 12 power source in the cab which is closer to the rear seat and that will be powered 24/7 when needed.

I didn't see how you ran the power into the cab. Thanks.

 

Great write up and project. More than I'd want to do but well done sir.

 

There is a rubber grommet by the brake pedal where all the wires go into the cab from the engine bay.

 

So why not rotate the outlet covers 180 degrees so the hinge is up top, they will flip up instead of down, making them less likely to break when your grabbing at stuff in the middle? still readable, the print is not necessarily upside down.