Tacoma Sound deadening DIY Install and Review

Howdy all,

I have been slowly making the interior of my 2011 DSCB Tacoma Sport more friendly by a bunch of small mods:
http://www.tacomaworld.com/forum/2nd-gen-tacomas/296915-classing-up-tacoma-interior-5.html
My classing up Tacoma build thread.

White Guages
OEM Style Navi Stereo
Heated Seats
TRD Short Shifter (6 speed)

I decided I needed to quite the interior down using RAAMMat from RaaM Audio.

I used more than their "Package 1", so be prepared if you are wanting to do it yourself. I needed a full Package 1, plus about another half kit to cover the full interior. We will get to that after the review.


Review

The sound deadening was done solely on making the interior more quiet and comfortable for long trips, although sound deadening is also EXCELLENT at enhancing your speakers.

One thing that blew me away with the final install is how good the stock, crappy speakers could sound once they were surrounded by the deadening material. I find the stereo to be more clear, with significantly more bass. With the added sound, and less noise I am playing my music a few notched lower on volume than usual.

As for the noise reduction; it has decreased but not as much as I was hoping. Road noise is nearly non existant, even from my AT General Grabbers. Sadly wind noise is still there, coming from the windows.

It is noticably nicer to talk in the cabin, but it is no where near luxury car quiet. It seems to be on par with my old '04 4Runner limited V8, which is decent. The more I drive it, the more I am noticing how little road noise there is. Old worn pavement that used to be louder than newer pavement is unnoticeable anymore, and rain/water sounds from the tires is greatly reduced.

I would definately do this mod again and it was relatively cheap (~$300) and not to time consuming. The total project took 9 hours, by myself, over 2 days this Christmas holidays.

Here are some before and after dB readings from inside the cab. I used an iPhone dB meter, so highly inaccurate.

Note: All speeds are in KM/H. Tried to be in the lowest logical gear for each speed.

Speed/Decibels Before/Decibels After
50km/h / 72dB / 68dB

60km/h / 74 dB / 70dB

70km/h / 76 dB / 71dB

80km/h / 76 dB / 72dB

90km/h / 77dB / 74dB

100km/h / 80dB / 76 dB

110km/h / 83 dB / 77 dB

120 km/h / 85 dB / 79dB

130km/h / 88 dB / 80dB





Install


I install the sound deadening on all 4 doors, rear wall behind rear seats, and the entire floor.

Feel free to PM me with any questions regarding the review or install DIY.

Also note, I am in no way a mechanic or a stereo installer. Everything I did to install the products was done by a few useful links and trial and error.

Tools:
GLOVES The RaaM Mat has a sharp edge and cut me up before I learned my lesson.
10mm ratchet and wrench
12mm ratchet and wrench
14mm ratchet
small extension
2 small flathead screwdrivers (slotted screwdriver)
1 Philips screwdriver
Razor knife (I like the drywall style) with extra blades.
10+ Ziplock bags + sharpie to label all bolt locations.

tape measure <- I found this useful but isnt required
chalk <- I found this useful but isnt required



Unplug battery , Do not want to set off side airbags.
Lay out plastic bags. I put all bolts from each location in a different bag then named the location for easy of reinstall.


Removing the floor/seats: 2.5 hours

Removing Rear Seat Bottom
1) Remove the 4-14mm bolts holding the rear seat bottoms to the floor. They are located under the front of the seat. You can then remove the rear seat bottom

Remove Rear Seat Backrest
2) Remove the 6-12mm bolts holding the rear seatback. Some can be accessed using a wrench and looking under the seat, most are accessed with the backrest flipped forward. There are 2 bolts on each side near the doors and 2 in the middle.

You will also need to remove the 1-14mm bolt holding the rear seatbelt/buckle in place.

Pull out rear seatbacks. The entire seat will come out together.

** You may need to skip to step 3 and remove the rear storage if you cannot access the middle bolts. I had small enough hands to reach the bolts.

Removing Rear Storage
3) Remove 6 - 10mm bolts holding in the storage bins inplace. 3 are on passenger side, 3 are on drivers side.

Once bolts are removed there are still 9-10 clips holding it in place. You will need to tug it straight back to release the clips. Start in a corner and work your way around. If you try to pull the storage unit up and out, you will snap some of the clips like I did.

It helps if you can remove the seatbacks so you can pull straighter with the rear storage.

Remove rear storage and set it aside

Remove Storage Bins Under The Rear Seats
4) 9 Black clips need to be removed. Very simple. Press on the middle of the black circular clips until they depress. You should hear a small click. Once you see the small center circle depressed gently pry up on the outer edge (using 2 flat screwdrivers) and remove. Once all 9 black circular clips are out, remove bins.

To reinstall the clips make sure the center pin is now sticking out of the outer circle, put back in the hole, then repress the center pin.

Mark All Bolt Locations On Rear Of Truck
5) Some people reinstall the bolts, I used a sharpie and a good memory. BE VERY SURE YOU KNOW WHERE THE HOLES ARE ESPECIALLY ON THE REAR STORAGE UNIT. YOU WILL NEED TO CUT HOLES IN THE SOUND DEADENING FOR EVERY BOLT/CLIP!!!

This cannot be stressed enough! If you miss a clip or bolt, you will be mad there is no hole when you go to reinstall, then you will have to guess where it is a recut to find the bolt hole. I did this in 2 spots, and it easily cost me 30 minutes.

The hardest part is now done.

Remove Door Sills
6) Door sills are the plastic covereing the edges of the carpet and edge of door frame. These hide many of your wires.

Simply grab the door sills and lift. You may pull out a wire holder, so don't yank to hard. If a wire holder/wires come with the door sill you will notice you can slide the wire holder out of the door sill, then reinstall into the floor of the truck.

Remove Front Seats
7) Remove the 4 - 14mm bolts from the front seat. Lean the seat back so you can see the wires underneath. Unclick the 2 plugs from the seat. Be cautious as these control the side airbags.

Repeat for other seat.

remove seats from truck.

Remove center console
8) (My truck was a manual) I don't know if that matters.

Open center console and remove all your junk. Use a flathead screwdriver and remove the cloth on the bottom of the console. It is loose, just a snug fit.

Remove the 2 - 10mm bolts from inside the console.

Grab the cupholder and pull up firmly to release the clips. Place cupholders off to the side. You will see 4 Philips screws holding the console in place. Remove these.

The console is now free of all screws.
Remove the shift knov by unscrewing it. If this is your first time, it takes a little effort but should spin off/on easily.

Now you need to pull the console toward the rear seat. There are 2 clips holding the console to the dash. It should pop out easily.

Set the console aside.

Remove Kick plates and dead pedal.
9) There are 2 plastic triangle pieces forward of the doors to be removed.

For the passengers side, remove the 1 black plug in the carpet. Easily removed by hand. Then give the kick plate a good pull and out it comes.

For the drivers side you will need to use the flat screwdriver and pop off the dead pedal (foot rest). It is only held on by clips so it requires a little force. Then unscrew the black plug in carpet, and the drivers side kick plate.


Remove Carpet
10) I found this very easy. It is only held on by the clips under the door sills, and shoved under the plastic of the center pillars. The door clips pop out or slide out, both work. Slide the carpet from under any plastic it is hiding behind, dont worry it is not attached.

Once all the carpet is removed, toss it aside.

To reinstall the carpet, start by laying it down roughly in place. I found working from the passengers front then drivers front then all the way back was easiest. Be sure to slide it under and remaining plastic near the floor to hide the edges.

Install sound deadening:2 Hours
11) Again! Make sure all bolt holes are marked so you can cut out the deadening for the reinstall.

There are plenty of sound deadening tutorials on youtube. I went to RAAM Audio and used theirs.

I found using the tapemeasure and chalk to mark bolt locations on the BXT and Ensolite Foam made it a lot easier. I did my cutting outside the truck for the most part to avoid and possible wire cutting issue, then install the piece after.

Reinstall interior:1.5 Hours
12) This part sucks, but goes quickly. If you marked your holes correctly, reinstall is a sinch. If you forgot some bolt/clip holes, you will be kicking yourself.

Floor/Rear wall Complete : Total 6 hours

The doors are SIMPLE in comparison. I did all mine in 2-2.5 hours. Watch the many youtube video's on this before you start.

The only tools you will need:
Flathead
Philips
Knife

Front Doors: 1.5 hours
1) Use flathead screwdriver to expose the philips screw behind the door opening lever, and behind the door grab handle. Remove both screws

Use the flathead screwdriver to remove the black clip which is toward the front of the truck ahead of the tweeter.

All bolts are now off.

Before you remove the door skin, you need to remove the small black triangular plastic piece in the corner of the window. It is just a few clips. A small tug and it is free.

To remove the door you need to undo the clips. The TOP of the door is slid down into place, so it must be done last.

Start by pulling on the bottom of the door skin. Once the bottom is unclipped, do the sides. Once the sides are free, simply slide the door up and off. You will now need to undo the wiring harness's for the windows/locks.

To remove the clear plastic vapor barrier just pull in small quick tugs. The quicker the tug the more likely it will not stick to the black silicone. Remove/Garbage the vapor barrier.

Remove the speaker (4 philips bolts) and the large black plate 6-7 philips screws. Leave the 1 screw in the grab handle brace, it does not need to come out.

Now you can apply your sound deadening and reinstall the door.

Rear Doors: 1 hour
1) Rear doors are very similar. 1 screw behind the door lever, 1 in the ashtray.

The black plastic clip is on the top outer edge of the door skin.

There is a long black plastic piece running up the outside of the window that needs to be removed before the door comes out.

Same process removing the door. Start from bottom, then sides and pull out vertically.

Remove the plug for windows.

Add sound deadening.

Reinstall.

ALL DONE!

Enjoy your louder stereo and more quiet drives!

I had pictures, but they seem to be blurry. I will try to get them up shortly.

Working on enlarging/rotating. I don't have to many pictures of the install.

Google Tacoma Sound deadening and you will see a lot more pictures of installed deadening.



Deadening laid out


Interior gutted

 

Can't wait for pics. Been contemplating this myself.

 

You should do your whole roof as well it makes a huge difference, using a spray on deadener inside all of pillars helps too.

 

I would like to do the roof, but I have always heard that once a headliner comes out it never goes back in as nice. I have it is a massive pain to remove/install.

 

Excellent write-up!

 

Awesome write-up, waiting for those pics !

REP'd...

 

Wait, you got 5db without doing the roof? I think that is one of the bigger sources.

The headliner should be pretty painless. At least on the RC, it is secured by the dome light, coat hooks, door gaskets, and the visors and their hooks. I haven't had mine completely out, but I had part of it pulled down to route the cables for my XM/GPS pucks. It's got a pretty solid plastic "eggcrate" backing to hold shape.

Don't be tempted to just give the hooks a twist... yes, they'll turn and pull out, but they will break their snaps.
You need to depress the catch with a thin screwdriver, start the rotation, then finish rotating and pull them out.

 

Correct, 5dB without the roof.

I would love to see another 3-5 dB with the roof, but again. Sound like a dangerous piece of work, and very little to no write-ups on how to remove it.

 

Subd

 

Completely agree, I love my taco but it's so blah! I don't need a bigger truck nor do I want a domestic as they are unreliable. I've done a few upgrades like white gauges etc I just finished adding heated signal mirrors. Much easier than expected and loving the result!

 

Thanks for the info

 

Great post. I've been thinking about doing this since I recently noticed a rattling noise in one of my rear doors when high-bass music is playing. One question, you mention removing the clear plastic vapor barrier in the doors. Does that get reinstalled? Thanks.

 

I did not reinstall it.

 

I've been researching this, I'm leaning toward RAAMMat too, probably just the doors. They have how-to instructions that also list installing PS Ensolite over the RAAMMat. http://www.raamaudio.com/pages/How%2dTo.html
Also suggest an 8"X8" piece behind the speakers. anyone out there do this in addition to the RAAMMat?

 

How many sq/ft of Sound Deadner did you use? Great write up by the way!

 

Tackled this project recently. Have plenty of photos for all those curious

Day 1






Hoses her down. Drying all day and still going to let it dry down more tomorrow to avoid mildew smell



Ran the capcitor line for my dash cam across the roof and down the A pillar.


Looking like a gypsy yard sale

Headliner back in. By far the easiest part of sound deadening. One 36 Sq Ft package of 80 Noico lasted me 4 doors and the roof

To be completed tomorrow Day 2
Started running short on Noico so used it sparingly. All about driver's comforts aamirite?!?

Have about a 1/2 of a sheet left, ill use the remainder on the door skins

Two days of drying and checking for moisture on the carpet floor to prevent that mildew.


Everything went back together swimingly except I may have stripped one bolt. Not an important one mind you.

Plans to add some sort of Mass Loaded Vinyl (MLV) when the funds allow it. For now I'll roll with this and keep everyone updated.

Pre-deadening:

Highway travelling (approx 100-120 km/hr) an hour averaging 56 DB with Windows up. Low 35 DB (probably at an idle) 80 DB with Windows down.



EDIT:


In city driving is so quiet now. Highway is a bit better but no luxury car quality. Happy with the results