Busted spider gear maybe worse

I was on factory tires and punched it from a stop to blow up my factory gears... The TRD Offroads are notorious for breaking the rear ring and pinion or they were anyway. You don't hear about it quite so much anymore so maybe Toyota fixed that.

 

Best test right there. Jack up the rear diff, remove driveshaft, and inspect.

True on that for sure.

If you notice it was not JUST hard acceleration. He mentioned wheel hop. I don't care WHO makes the rear diff, Wheel hop can break even the strongest transmission or rear differential.




In my opinion I am willing to bet it is the ring/pinion assembly. With it moving about a foot, then grabbing, you probably have a piece of gear jammed in the teeth of the ring gear, and as the ring gear rotates and that piece reaches the pinion, it stops. Then going backwards it would do the same thing. With 33's, having a foot of movement would be just right for this type of failure.

 

He said about 1/2 a foot of play though. You can see in my video that I have about an inch of play right off the hub. Put a 33 on there and you might be getting close to half a foot of play.

If it was a whole foot I would definitely agree. When I blew up mine, I was still able to drive it, but it would slip a lot when it hit that spot where the teeth were broken. I jammed it up once, but just had to back up a bit and try again since I didn't want to break more teeth. Had to use 4wd to drive it up onto the trailer though.

 

I hope so. I'm not gonna baby this thing forever. Time to start researching upgraded gears!

 

I still stand firm on my belief that he has broken ring gear and or pinion gear. If you have 6 inches of play in a 33 inch wheel, then your rear end is most likely either worn, or not set up correctly. I have 33s on my truck, and I have almost no play in them at all.

 

Cmon these rear diffs are bullet proof
This belonged to a 2ndgen owning NE TW member.



This one is mine.

I think they used a shitty quality gear. With the Aftermarket one i have beat it harder than when i broke it and its still going.


EDIT: If it is your ring gear. Don't order from PORC unless you have time to wait they are notoriously slow. They sent me the wrong parts twice and they totally forgot to ship out my flange. What was supposed to arrive in a week took a month. However with the gears and front locker and some promotion they had i saved a ton of money compared to any other retailer.

 

Agreed! I killed my factory one and it was replaced under warranty with another Toyota OEM one and it chipped off a few pieces at about 800 miles. I'm running Nitro gears now with no issues and a hell of a lot more abuse than the 2 Toyota gears ever saw.

 

At least it seems to be just the material once its upgraded they seem to behave.



Just in case it is your ring gear. I ordered this kit (i don't know if they have 2nd gen stuff.) They were by far the cheapest i got both gears with install kits and a front aussie locker for less than the competitors gears. It says PORC gears but the ones I received are Yukon gears.
Their shipping sucks, but their prices and warranty are awesome.
http://www.performanceoffroadcenter...t_info.php?cPath=37_1487_319&products_id=2335

 

I got mine through East Coast Gear Supply. They installed the gears and ARB into the diffs for me, shipped me the diffs, I then swapped diffs myself and shipped my old ones back to them.

Not to be a downer..., but I have not heard good things about Yukon gears...

 

yukon makes great gears. They are widely used in jeeps that run 33s up to 54s

 

I did my gears with a friend. Yukon has been around for a long time and has a very good reputation. Nitro gears are cut in a Yukon factory The issue where Yukon can have a not great things are when they rebadge Richmond or other gears as their own. However with a lifetime warranty i think its worth it.

 

I have no personal experience with them, but I know 2 guys who I wheel with (Nyco is one of them on here) who want nothing to do with Yukon gears anymore after their bad experiences...

 

Well Nitro and Yukon should be made with the same stock and same factory. I believe its generally the domestic ring gears that are sourced from other vendors. But i could be wrong i have been wrong before.

 

So here will be my gear setup. I'm not too knowledgable in this so if anyone can help me, is this all I will need to redo both front and rear differentials (plus fix my busted rear end problems)?
http://eastcoastgearsupply.com/i-14...ackage-4-56-ratio-without-factory-e-lock.html

Now will this kit be all I need, and will it be stronger than stock. Also I don't believe my locking rear diff will work anymore after this kit, will it? This 4.56 gear setup should also pull better with my 33"s too right Thanks guys

 

So you have a TRD Offroad? If so you want to choose the E-locker in the link you posted because the Ring and pinion are not swappable between the E-locker and non E-locker diffs.

Did you confirm for sure your rear end is messed up? And if so do you know how to set up gears or know someone who can set them up for you? It's not exactly an easy thing to do.

 

Get ready to be disappointed.

<--- 2009 with

$620 36xxx Jobsite Chest, 36" W x 19" D x 16" H, Tan

36xxx miles on it currently on its third ring gear.

Also, the 05/06 model years are known to have manual transmissions made of glass.

The simple fact of the matter is these trucks should have 9in rear ends no ifs/ands/buts about it. Toyota used what was on the shelf because it was cheap and means more profit per unit.

These are 4400lb trucks before we add all our offroad shit to them. 8" diff is too damn small.

Can only get so tough with the factory housing. Replacing the crush spacer on the pinion gear with a solid spacer helps a LOT though.

Same. The biggest key is a setup with a solid spacer. Toyota is using shitty quality gears from factory in these things, but the real issue is their crush sleeve on the pinion. Once you ding the pinion flange offroad or bind the drivetrain up nice and tight and put some torque through it, those things deform. Once they do that, your whole diff setup is a time bomb.

This should be fun to watch right?

 

Where can I go to look for a transmission. And another question regarding thinking it's a blown out clutch. When I try and release clutch and it doesn't move just loud grinding sound. But I push pedal back in and it stops. Wouldn't that mean clutch is working? Thanks a lot guys and she goes in shop in a week so hope all goes well I guess. Thanks again

 

Dude, diagnostics is a process. Start eliminating some stuff. You could have a grenaded trans, clutch, t-case, differential, or axle.

If you don't have the know-how to fix those items yourself, leave it alone until you can take it to a professional. Fucking with it can easily damage things further.

Also: In case you hadn't figured it out already, stop acting like an ass in the mall parking lot. Women aren't impressed, your dick isn't any bigger, and now someone (hopefully you, but possibly your parents) has a sizeable repair bill coming. Totes worth it?

 

Wow harsh bro. Ok sounds like the plan I had in mind anyways, just getting all opinions I can.

 

Are you trying to move the vehicle or is it in neutral when you push the clutch in and out? There should be no loud grinding from engaging and disengaging the clutch in neutral...