Rear O2 Sensor Fell Out - What Would You Guys Do?

My '95 3.4l has JBA headers and exhaust. Whoever installed the system buggered the mounting of the rear O2 sensor. This is what it looked like when I got it:



I figured there wasn't much I could do about it, so I just left it alone. Shortly thereafter the front O2 sensor failed. I replaced it and all was okay. For a day or so. Then it started throwing the infamous PO420 code.

I decided to install URD's O2 simulator. It solved the problem and all has been quiet. Until a couple of weeks ago.

While driving I noticed the exhaust suddenly was louder. I took a quick look and saw the rear O2 sensor hanging by its wires. (No CEL because I am running the simulator)

So I got underneath and did a quick fix using hose clamps:



This is not an elegant solution of course. But I'm wondering what exactly would be the best fix for this. I don't even need the O2 sensor. At this point it is merely blocking the hole.

I'd appreciate any thoughts you guys have?

 

Any fab machine shop or muffler shop for that matter can just weld it shut if you don't need it, or contact jba for a replacement piece to keep it in place for emissions.

 

Got to a local exhaust shop and have them fill that hole and weld in a new bung beside it

 

Yeah I'm tempted maybe to just weld it shut. Can always be restored later if needed.

And removing the O2 sensor entirely would lessen what little resistance to flow its presence creates. I dunno how much of a factor that is tho...

 

You need to keep the functioning rear sensor for the URD simulator to work correctly.


From URD site.
Note- The URD Rear Sensor Simulator cannot be used to replace or fix a rear O2 sensor that is not working correctly. If you have a failed rear O2 sensor you will need to replace that rear O2 sensor with a properly functioning one. The URD Rear O2 Sensor Simulator is designed to modify and condition the signal from a properly working rear sensor. If you need a replacement O2 sensor you can find them here on the URD Site. URD O2 Sensor Page.

 

Hey thanks Dirty Pool. I didn't realize that. If I had, I would have secured the thing sooner from swinging in the breeze like it was.

I guess the thing still works.

 

I believe that statement from urd is only for legal purposes. The person i heard about the simulator from said the simulator is just taking the voltage sent from the computer and adjusting it to a voltage that the computer expects in return. I think they want you to keep the sensor in place for visual inspections. The only reason i believe it doesn't matter if the sensor is bad or good is because mine is literally wired up under my frame. never put it back into the exhaust after i hooked up the simulator. just capped my hole and drove off. no code, no fuel problems.

 

Not all O2 sims work the same way. The URD sim works with an otherwise functioning O2 sensor (in the exhaust or not). It has nothing to do with legality.

 

I bought the sim to stop my truck from throwing the code. I kept my bad rear 02 sensor hooked up just now i have a sim hooked in between. Never had the code pop again. I don't have a functioning 02 sensor. it is not in the exhaust. it is wired to my frame.

 

Actually that makes sense polack. Thanks.

 

Wow. There must be a ton of salt on the roads up there. I thought Chicago was bad. Wisconsin must be worse.

 

Trying to see how your comments relate to the O2 sensor discussion.

Perhaps part of your posting got cut off?

 

You've got a couple options, depending on the condition of the rest of the pipe.
*Weld a new O2 sensor directly into the pipe
Pros-
*It won't come out again
Cons-
*It won't come out again

*Weld a new stud to the old pipe
Pros-
*Factory-style O2 sensor still bolts on properly
*When the pipe itself fails you can salvage the sensor for reuse on the new pipe.
Cons-
*It may take several tries to get the new stud lined up with the bolt holes on the sensor
*The pipe may not be thick enough to take the weld and will burn through

*Buy a new pipe for the new O2 sensor to mount to
Pros-
*New parts!
*Direct bolt-up, minimal headaches required
*Won't need to worry about the pipe or the sensor again for years
Cons-
*Expensive
*Won't match the rest of your current rusty pipe.