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Vibration after lift

Discussion in '1st Gen. Tacomas (1995-2004)' started by cr500taco, Feb 12, 2014.

  1. Feb 12, 2014 at 7:24 AM
    #1
    cr500taco

    cr500taco [OP] Well-Known Member

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    I have a slight vibration after lifting the rear about 2". Wondering if it's due to the increased angle of the driveshaft at the rearend?
     
  2. Feb 12, 2014 at 7:36 AM
    #2
    gearcruncher

    gearcruncher Well-Known Member

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    You nailed it !!
    time to buy an angle finder and shim away .:)
     
  3. Feb 12, 2014 at 7:36 AM
    #3
    VeeSix

    VeeSix Yotahead, Deadhead.

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    It's the eternal question. Could be that. If you had no vibe before the lift, that's where I'd start. Lower the carrier bearing back there with a spacer and see if that helps.

    Hundreds of threads on "vibration after lift". Lots of solutions and blind allies.
     
  4. Feb 12, 2014 at 8:20 PM
    #4
    cr500taco

    cr500taco [OP] Well-Known Member

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    Funny thing is, while researching MT lifts, I didn't see any mention of having vibration after doing a lift. I will try spacing out the carrier bearing, since that will be really easy to do.
     
  5. Feb 12, 2014 at 8:23 PM
    #5
    ColtsTRD

    ColtsTRD Well-Known Member

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  6. Feb 12, 2014 at 8:41 PM
    #6
    RAT PRODUCTS

    RAT PRODUCTS Well-Known Member

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    Get rear axle shims. I don't have any vibes at all with a 3 degree shim and 3" of lift out back. I did on my old truck without the shims.
     
  7. Feb 13, 2014 at 7:47 AM
    #7
    stikle

    stikle Well-Known Member

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    Eh, see my Build Thread sig link. Too many mods to list.
    I lifted mine 3" and had a vibration. Put in 3° shims and it was still there but much reduced. I dropped the carrier bearing by using 4 washers per bolt as spacers and that's all it took. So maybe a 4° or 5° shim would fully resolve my issue the right way. It's good enough for now though.
     
  8. Feb 13, 2014 at 9:32 AM
    #8
    Mod

    Mod Well-Known Member

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    Don't just buy shims and stick them in, get a angle finder and do your research (if needed) to do the job the way it's supposed to be done.

    Jack the truck/car up, level the frame rails, put the rear axle on stands, then start checking angles.

    Make sure you don't have any left or right angle on the shaft either, dead straight in line. A degree or two off on that and it will cause a lopeing/hopping vibration and you'll rattle shit apart pretty quickly.
     
  9. Feb 13, 2014 at 8:30 PM
    #9
    Alderleet

    Alderleet Ace of Spades

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    Actually, you need a degree or two of offset. Without the slight offset, running a 0* input/output angle, your u-joints would brinell to shit really quickly. (needle bearings need movement, otherwise, torque is applied through the bearings, into the u-joint caps, dimpling hte inside of the cap like a damn golf ball, and permafucking the u-joint)
     
  10. Feb 14, 2014 at 7:45 AM
    #10
    Mod

    Mod Well-Known Member

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    Yup, the input/output angle needs to almost match and at a minimum of 1.5° on each end ( Ex: tailshaft down 1.5°, pinion shaft up about 2° allowing for rear end wrap under power). Drive shafts are spun balanced in a straight line,,so the closer you can get it to that under power,,the less chance for vibration out of that shaft. A high lifted rig with severe obtuse angles on the shafts?? fuggetabout-it,,just run unbalanced low rpm thick wall PTO shafts,drive slow. When I had my custom driveshafts built, I told the guy to use .083 wall tube and spin it as fast as he could for balance.

    But the driveshaft side to side angle on the u joints needs to be zero. As an example, if the vehicle gets hit on the rear end, and it shoves the axle over out of line. It needs to be brought back in line to zero side angle on the u-joints. Prototype and custom chassis are set up for the correct amount of input/output angle,,but usually zero side to side.

    And yes again, you need at least 1.5° on the input/output to rock/roll needle bearings in the bearing cups back and fourth so the needle bearings don't get pounded flat. Most chassis builders recommend no less than 1°, so the needle bearings roll over and then back about 1 revolution in the cup.
     

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