Blowing Dome fuse... 2000 Taco SR5 V6.. help!

I've been chasing this for a few days now. Is there a common cause for this? Thanks in advance...

 

Sounds like the hot wire to the dome is shorted out on something,dome lights come on when the switch in the door jam grounds.maybe you can remove dome light assembly and see if it's grounding out there.

 

if im not mistaking the door trigger is (-), meaning when the door opens the trigger sends ground to the domelight, also keep in mind there is numerous things that fuse protects, pull off both your door panels and check the wires going up to the little red light on the panel. hope this helps

 

Thanks guys...! I'm pretty busy during the week, so I won't get to this again until Saturday. Given that the door triggers are negative, does it tell you anything to know that the fuse blows upon insertion, with nothing on and the doors closed? Are there many positive wires that could be touching ground some how?

 

Had the exact same problem on another vehicle I was working on. Chased it for days. A constant positive wire was attached to the blue memory wire on a new radio install. Connection was not insulated well enough and rubbed on the body under the dashboard. Key and light switches off, doors closed, put a fuse in the box and poof! Once that wire was connected properly, no more blown fuses and the domes worked as advertised.

I had it all apart, touched that bad connection to the body and shoved a fuse in and it would pop. Pull the connection away from the body and shove a new fuse in and it didn't pop and hasn't to this day.

I started out checking all of the grounds first, which were good or made better, then moved on to digging deeper.

 

so its blowing when when inserted with the doo closed? although It is possible because the wires routed to the dome light and others that are on the same fuse are constant meaning power all the time so if said wire(s) are touching ground when the fuse is inserted it imediatle explodes

 

Well, Mod... U called it! I finally got to this thing. I didn't want to admit that it was my install, but err, it was...(blast!). To anyone else who may read this thing - if you use the liquid insulator like I do/did, this time it bit me. The cont. wire (yellow) was soldered, but pinched and melted near the heater duct right at my connection. Btw.... Thanks 2 all who cared enough to respond.... Much appreciated.... !
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I would expect that.
Since the dome is switched on the grounded side, we know the short is between the fuse and the light itself (or something else tied to the fuse), so removing the dome light completely, the fuse would still blow as soon as it is inserted.

Quite a few vehicle lighting systems are wired using a switched-ground.
1st Gen headlights are wired the same way and it causes issues when installing HID systems.

 

That's the best news I've heard all day. Congrats!

 

Well,,ehhh, your not alone. Mine was a install I did a few years back and I went the heat shrink tube route, non insulated crimp connector and solder. A tiny pointy solder spur had worked it's way thru the 3M heat shrink tube and made connection to the floorboards. Probably a 1/2 to 1 millimeter exposed piece of solder that eventually touched.

Was paid for the job,he put the money in my hand,,and I handed it right back.

If a person solders connections,,make sure you have a smooth surface to shrink tube around on,,no pointed projections pulled from a puddle of solder. I have changed my tactics as of late, and now double heat tube the connection and found some higher content silver solder that flows like it should.

Switched grounds have been around a long time,,for door cab lights, ect. 60 year old GM iron has those, your PC does as well. A person needs to be conscientious of constant hots they may add or come across. Some bad Voodoo there,,if you don't get it right.