3.4L Timing belt lessons learned/ helpful suggestions.

I kno a lot of guys want to do this project by themselves to avoid a costly trip to the dealer. I successfully finished this job last week and just got around to posting about it... It was a very interesting project to say the least. Here are a couple lessons I learned/ suggestions for anyone who wants to do this job on your 3.4L.

1. Make sure you have the right tools! U need a good breaker bar and torque wrench capable of 184ft/lbs (EDIT:I have been made aware that the torque was changed to 217 ft/lbs due to the pulley possibly coming loose) for the crank pulley removal/install. Obviously you need a set of metric sockets (I mostly used the 10, 12, 14, and 19mm) and a ratchet (1/2" and 3/8" drive), various screw drivers, and a T30 Torx bit if you plan to remove the radiator. A low profile impact gun would have helped a ton, though I managed without. Ratcheting box end wrenches make the job a hell of a lot easier too.

2. When loosening/ tightening the crank pulley bolt, u can remove the lower torque converter cover and wedge a screwdriver into the starter ring gear teeth to prevent the crank from moving while breaking the torque on that bolt. A lot of guys try to make their own tool to hold the pulley in place but this method worked great and my crank didn't budge. It can be exceptionally hard to break the torque on that bolt so as I said, make sure u have a nice strong breaker bar.

3. It's difficult to access the tensioner without moving the a/c compressor out of the way. If u can, get the compressor discharged before u get started so u can remove it completely from the engine bay. I just unbolted it, left the hoses attached, and moved it out of the way but there was very little room and made it a pain in the ass to get to the tensioner. EDIT:Thanks to xcmtb83 I was also told that you can do this to get to the tensioner...

4. No need to remove the power steering pump, as most manuals suggest. You just have to loosen the adjuster bolt when putting your v-belt back on.

5. If your up for it, fully remove the radiator. If u have an auto trans, ur goin to lose some ATF when u disconnect the cooler lines from the radiator. I didn't do this because I didn't feel like messing with the trans fluid, but it would have given me a lot more room to get tools and stuff in there.

6. Toyota was kind enough to put timing marks on the timing crank pulley and block, as well as each cam pulley and their corresponding heads. Just make sure they stay aligned at all times during this job and you'll be fine!

7. When removing the tensioner, follow Rich91710s advice below if you plan to reuse your original tensioner.

That's all I can think of now, if u wanna do this project just make sure u do ur research and get the proper tools. Lastly, be patient! If this is your first time, take your time and double check all your work before moving on to the next step. Good luck guys!

 

Write ups like this are always appreciated.
What is the big black thing on the lower right of photo?
The Rendler spindle?

 

That's the timing belt tensioner... I assume u mean the little T-shaped thing. It applies tension to the number 1 idler pulley to keep tension on the belt.

 

Pull the radiator out, it adds 20mins to job but saves a ton of headaches. Another trick to get the crack bolt loose, is to ratchet strap the breaker bar to the frame and bump the starter, works really well.

 

Yea I had heard of this method, but when I got to the point where I was going to remove the pulley, I had already positioned the engine at TDC and didn't want to crank it over. Thanks for the input though!

 

Nice. I was hesitant to do this job but you make it sound fairly simple. I was mostly worried about the timing. But seems easy enough to make sure it stays tdc.
And will an impact be enough to zip that crank bolt off? Got one at my disposal... I imagine it will still need to be stuck in place when torquing it back on yeah?

 

Yup.
Did my '03 Tundra 4.7... fun job.
Took about 6 hours, but over an hour of that was waiting for my wife to drive from home to my office (where I was working), pick up the fan belt, and go to the dealer to get the right one (they gave me the one for a truck without AC... didn't know those were made!).

 

In order to remove the crank bolt with an impact gun you'll probably need to remove the radiator so you have enough room to fit the gun in there. Also, I'd hold the starter ring gear just to be safe because im sure the impact gun could easily turn the crank. as far as it being fairly simple, I was pretty overwhelmed once I got everything apart, but I just took my time and it all went back together perfect.

 

Nothing to lose by trying, even without ring gear jam. I think it unlikely getting a good impact gun in there with radiator in.
I used the breaker bar/starter trick with good success on a Subaru this week. Engine must turn clockwise viewed from front for this to work.

 

I've taken out radiator twice now so I can have that thing out in like 15 minutes no prob. I can thank an eBay radiator for that. Ugh. But yeah I'm gonna do this soon. I've got a grinding noise that sounds like a bearing or timing belt pulley in that general area. Can't figure it being anything else as I've eliminated other options.

 

--or water pump--

 

With the plugs out, it's way easy to rotate the engine by hand to get everything where you want it.

I loosened the crank bolt with the starter and a breaker bar, didn't pay any mind as to whether it was TDC or not.
Once I got the covers off, I put the bolt back in and turned the crank to get the timing marks to the top.

 

This.

I did my Tundra at about 105k (TB is a 90k service).
The water pump was clean (interesting, I just replaced the pump on my '08 Tacoma at the same mileage and it was totally crusty on the bottom).
But you have to ask yourself... I'm in there, it's another 10 minutes and $80 to change the water pump... or I can pray that the water pump lasts another 100k, and if it doesn't, I get to do all of this again in 50k?

The timing belt has to come off to change the water pump... there's no reason not to change the pump when the front end is torn down this far.
Same for belts and hoses. I've had belts and hoses go 200k on a vehicle that uses a timing chain... but any time I tear down the front end of an engine, like my 2.7's water pump, the belts and hoses get replaced whether they need it or not.

 

^^^^^^
Absolutely.

 

X2 I did the water pump, thermostat, and all belts and hoses. Now no worries for another 90-100k

 

Yeah I was thinking that exactly. But it's been doing this noise for quite some time now. Don't they normally just go out or is it just gonna continue making that noise? It does stop grinding occasionally but only momentarily...

 

1. - False. The torque spec for tightening is 217 ft-lbs.
3. - False. Loosen the wire loom around the front of the engine around the oil pan then use a 1/4" drive socket with swivel and extension from under the vehicle to loosen the two tensioner bolts.

 

.

 

It was increased from 184 to 217 at some point in time due to pulleys coming loose I guess. Your documents are dated or Toyota failed to update all of the sections regarding the bolt.

Rich91710 is right, it doesn't matter if you are TDC when loosening the pulley bolt. It can be installed again without the pulley for manual engine rotation purposes.

 

Ah I see... Well thanks for the heads up I need to go in and retorque that bolt. OP updated.