POR-15 skid plate prep/application write up

Okay everyone, here it is! My first "tutorial"

Note: if you're having trouble viewing images, bare with me, something isn't working correctly on my end.. sorry about that. i attached them as thumbnails so you can at least see some of the images some way, i hope thats okay!

THE PLAN: Remove skid plate from 2010 tacoma, remove all rust and apply POR-15 to stop current rust and prevent anymore in the future.

list of materials:
Socket set with 12mm
Flat head screw driver
POR-15 set (degreaser/prep & ready/POR)
Paint brush
Gloves
Goggles
Newspaper
Accessible water source
And One rusty skid plate (or anything else rusty!)

START TIME 6:00pm

STEP ONE
Drop your skid plate by removing the four bolts (Two in front, two in rear) using a 12mm socket (sorry guys i didn't take a picture before i removed mine)


as you can see my skid wasn't a total rust bucket, but I've had this POR laying around and just had the ambition to finally put it to use!

STEP TWO
Remove ALL RUST, now on the can it says "paint right over rust" now don't get me wrong here, I'm not doubting the company, but a prepped surface is a future rust free happy surface, thats the saying right?
I was lucky and had access to a sand blaster at my work, but you folks can do just as well with a grinder, a wire wheel and some elbow grease!


Fresh out of the sand blaster!

STEP THREE
Prep your metal surface with the degreaser provided by the company, if you didn't buy the set, I'm sure any industrial strength degreaser will do.
BE SURE TO WEAR YOUR GOGGLES AND GLOVES PEOPLE, THESE ARE NASTY CHEMICALS!
I followed the directions and diluted it with HOT water 1:1 mixture

Spray all over the surface and keep applying every 5 minutes for 15 minutes.
When the 15 minutes is up, completely rinse the surfaces with water.

STEP FOUR
Using the Prep & Ready (and all proper protective equipment)
Apply generously to your surface (I used and old glass cleaner bottle to apply)
Repeat the process from step three and make sure you keep the surface wet. Apply every 5 minutes, but this time for 20 minutes. What this chemical is doing is more or less etching the un-rusted metal to create a better surface for the POR to bond to. DO NOT get any of this on your bare skin, i can't tell you what it will do but by the smell I could tell it would do some type of damage.
Before applying the POR ensure that the surface is rinsed thoroughly and is complete bone dry.

When completely dry, it should look similar to this, it will have a white haze to it and noticeable "etching"

STEP FIVE
When opening your POR, Use a flat head screw driver and be sure to not get any POR in the crease of the can, and if you do, remove it as soon as possible, once you close it with it in the crease, it will be closed perminatly!
To help keep that and all surrounding areas clean, use a small scoop from a coffee container or in my case from my whey protein container, and transfer the desired amount into a smaller container. Make sure you prolong the life of your POR by closing the can immediately after you've taken what is needed.

Next, lay down some news paper or plastic sheeting and using a standard paint brush, apply your POR to your clean DRY surface, while making sure you cover every inch of metal to ensure maximum protecting.




Allow 3-6 hours to dry (time varies based on humidity)
My coat dried in approximately 2.5 hours.

END TIME 9:30pm


The POR dries in a very high gloss and looks great with the surface having a ceramic or glass feel to it!

Now i went ahead and bought all new hardware, because my bolts were pretty rusted (i went with black to match the skid) if yours are in good condition, it would be fine to re use them.

Re-install your skid, step back and breath a sigh of relief knowing that the POR will prevent future rust, and look great at the same time!
If you all would like me to take a better picture i can but i think this one serves its purpose!

Heres and extra just to show how much of a gloss we're talking about here, its almost a mirror finish people! Looks great if you ask me, and i can't wait to do the rest of my framework!
I'd appreciate any feedback you all have for me!

 

I have used POR 15 in the past with great luck. Did a 72 dodge snow commander frame and its still in great shape. Then only thing is it is UV sensitive and will fade and peel if you don't use a top coat. Looks great btw!

 

POR15 is good stuff but as stated above needs a top coat to prevent UV.

I did this on my 96 Cherokee when I first got it 15 or more years ago. Drove all over the Midwest, now living in New Mexico where you really don't need paint to prevent rust. People here can not believe how clean the Cherokee is. Most have rust on the unibody, or if off-road most can not open their doors due to the body twisting. Mine I can be at full flex opening and closing the door just like in the drive way.

 

Now about putting a top coat- does this need to be done regardless? Or if it will be exposed to the sun all the time?

 

It'll be fine without a top coat if it's not directly in the sun.

 

If the area coated is exposed to any UV or sunlight. It will fade and peel if not top coated. I know this from experience.

 

Thanks guys! I'll keep that in mind for the future.