2007 taco problem warping rotors bigger tires

hi I have a question regarding my taco. I have a 2007 v6 4x4 and which route I should take. I upgraded my tires a few years ago from p265/65/r17 to bf Goodrich LT 285/70/R17 tires. ive got spidertrax wheel spacers on not the cheap kind. I had my warped rotors turned in December and I find they are already warped. ive had it looked at from Toyota and they say nothing is wrong except for using aftermarket brake pads. ive got raysbestos pads and I believe raysbestos rotors as well... im asking which route should I take. would slotted and drilled rotors save my problem? or I should use a different pad and rotor brand. are the tires to big for the truck? anyone else have this problem? just looking for some advice to solve my problem thanks

 

From what I've read once you have warped rotors even turning them down doesn't really get rid of the problem. I've used Powerstop cross drilled/slotted rotors with Evolution ceramic pads on 3 different vehicles over the years. For the price they can't be beat in my opinion. Way better stopping over stock rotors and pads.

Here is a link:

 

try tightening the bolts on the back of your actual calipers. i believe they are 17 mm and 14 mm.

mine were not very tight when i checked recently. i too thought my rotors were warped. i found this odd considering i replaced my pads and rotors last year or ~15k miles ago. i tightened these bolts up and the feeling of warped rotors diminished by about 90%.

i searched to see what they should be snugged to, but didn't find any info. if anyone has these values, please post them.

this may not fixed your problem, but i figured i would suggest it.

 

If they're warped they're ruined.

Get new BLANK rotors and good pads and use your gearing to help slow you down.

I use napa rotors and pads with 35s in a heavy ass double cab long box and I have never warped a rotor. And I live in a deep valley that I drive into often. It's a steep hill in. Driving makes all the difference.

 

yeah im not a hard braker and I do use my gears to slow me down. ive heard of slotted and drilled rotors cracking. anyone else have this problem? I will also def check the caliper bolt tightness as well. so the tires arent to big then? should I switch brands from raysbestos and go with another pad?

 

are you using a torque wrench to tighten those spacers and lugs??

 

X2

Over tightening lug nuts/spacers can cause warping.

I think the spec is 85ft lbs. I always use 100ft lbs and haven't had a problem.

 

I agree with the driving style comments. I'm also pushing 35's but my rotors are dirt cheap ones and still pretty after 60k miles. I always downahift (auto tranny) and pulsr brake when slowing down. I have ABS diaabled so I like to keep my brakes as cool as possible. I also get a lot of klicks outa my cheap pads Still debating on an ebc brake upgrade tho. I wouldn't comolain about a lil extra stopping power.

 

uneven tightening without a torque wrench is even worse !!! if you were to test real torque values after hand tightening you'd almost always find them way over the spec limits..meaning you are stronger than you think lol

 

amazed no one said to check your rear brakes.

#1 reason for toasted front brakes is lack of rear brakes IMO.

 

I had my rear brakes replaced about 3-4months ago. as for the uneven torque I've always hand tightened my lug nuts without a torque wrench on all my vehicles and I've never had a problem with rotors warping because of uneven torque. so I'm doubting it's that. I'm not getting a lot of shaking in the wheel. my last 20feet of stopping is when I feel it. it'll feel like it grabs and then let's go. grab and let go.

 

yep....sounds like they did a crappy job adjusting them.

have YOU checked them?

 

well when I drive around a little bit and I touch the rear brake drum they are warm/hot so im pretty sure they are doing their job. im gonna double check to make sure im running ceramic and not metallic pads!