1st Gen Fuel Door Lock Fix How To

A common failure on the 1st generation Tacoma is the fuel door lock. The issue is with the plastic arm that extends from the lock cylinder and secures the door to the body upon locking. Over time the plastic become brittle and breaks, rendering the fuel door lock ineffective. New replacement locks/doors run $50.00 plus, so it's not a cheap fix. Until now.

You will need:

1/16" micro drill bit (Sourced from hobby shop for $1.00.)
1/8" drill bit
(2 qty.) No.2 x 1/2" socket head sheet metal screws (Sourced from hobby shop for $2.00.)
2mm allen/hex wrench
Two part plastic epoxy
Drill
Medium grit sandpaper
Bench Vice
Cut-off tool
Access to a 3D Printer

Procedure:

1. Start by downloading the 3D .STL files from the following website:

http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:27563/#files

(Select "Thing Files" from the menu under the pics. You should see two separate .STL file options. Download both files.)

(Alternately, here are direct links to both files: Arm File and Plate File )

2. 3D print the two files. I did an internet search to locate a company that performs 3D printing in my area. My part was 3D printed by Ely Scot Enterprises, LLC. I worked with Justin, the Director of Product Development. He was very professional and helpful throughout the process. I paid $10.00 for the 3D printed parts. If you're interested in using his company, I'd suggest that you email him. Here's a link to the website:

http://elyscot.com/

You should end up with two plastic parts, a plastic arm with a notched slot and a plastic round plate with a notched slot. They should look like this:



3. Remove the old fuel door lock cylinder. To do so, simply slide out the metal clip which holds it in place. Remove any remains of the old plastic arm from the lock cylinder. I then soaked my lock cylinder in parts cleaner, brush cleaned the exterior and blew out the inside with compressed air. Once clean, I lubed the lock cylinder with a good dry lubricant. I used Liquid Wrench brand dry lubricant. Many locksmiths recommend using an oil based lubricant, like Tri-Flow, to lubricate locks, but I didn't want to risk lubricant residue dripping and contaminating the epoxy step of this repair process.

4. I believe the lock spring was originally connected to the plastic arm. However, the 3D printed parts have no provision for the spring to connect to the plastic arm. I simply adjusted the spring so both ends contact the slot in the inner lock post. Here's a pic of what I mean:



5. Temporarily insert the cleaned and prepared lock cylinder back into the fuel door. Then mark on the cylinder where the "T" post aligns on the cylinder.



6. Take the lock cylinder back out of the fuel door. Slide the plastic plate over the end of the "T" post on the lock cylinder, then rotate it 180 degrees, so that it cannot slide back off. Then transfer the alignment mark which you already made on the cylinder onto the plastic plate like this:


This will ensure that the plastic plate aligns correctly later when you join it to the plastic arm.

7. Prepare the surfaces of the plastic plate and plastic arm for epoxying by scuffing them lightly with a medium grit sandpaper in the places where they will be joined.



8. Secure the lock cylinder in a bench vise with the "T" post sticking up. Place the plastic plate over the "T" post, scuffed side up and rotate it 180 degrees until the alignment marks on the cylinder and plastic plate align. Mix the epoxy per directions. Be careful to use absolutely correct portions of hardener to epoxy resin, otherwise it won't set-up or bond properly. Mix very slowly. You don't want bubbles in the epoxy. Your goal is to have it very thoroughly blended, which takes more than just a few seconds of mixing. I cut the side from a plastic window cleaner bottle to use as the epoxy mixing tray and used a chop stick to mix it. I cut two plastic strips from the same bottle, folded them once, and inserted them under the plastic plate to prop it up against the "T" post. Once the epoxy is well mixed, apply a light coating of epoxy to the scuffed side of the plastic plate and the scuffed side of the plastic arm. (I allowed some epoxy to drip down into the notched slot in the plastic arm so that it might also bond to the "T" post. In hindsight, that probably wasn't a good idea, because that may make it harder to remove from the "T" post if the part ever fails again.) Gently lower the plastic arm onto the plastic plate, over the "T" post. (I would advise doing a dry run first to make sure everything is ready and aligns well). Place an appropriately sized weight on top of the plastic arm to hold it against the plastic plate. (I used a socket.) Let the epoxy cure for at least 24 hours before handling. I let mine dry for one whole week before I proceeded.









9. Once the epoxy is cured, I'd suggest installing two small screws to further reinforce the joining of the plastic parts. To do so, start by marking two small dots where the screws can travel through the plastic arm, past the "T" post, and into the plastic plate. Locate the screw holes far enough inboard so that their placement won't weaken the integrity of the plastic parts.



10. Secure the lock cylinder with attached plastic arm in a bench vise. Ensure the plastic arm part is level. Then drill a 1/16" hole at each marked spot, through both the plastic arm and the plastic plate.





11. Drill 1/8" countersink holes in the top of the plastic arm. I used a hand drill for drilling both the 1/16" and the 1/8" holes, both because the hand drill chuck was small enough to mount the micro drill bits, and because it afforded greater control over the depth of the countersink holes. Go slow or else you may drill too deep with the countersink holes.



12. Install screws into the drilled holes to the countersunk depth. I chose socket-head screws because they would accommodate greater torque from a 2mm allen/hex wrench than would a typical phillips-head or slot-head screw. Socket-head screws will also countersink through a smaller diameter countersink hole than either phillips-head or slot-head screws. Cut off any length of screw protruding from the backside of the plastic plate. I used a Dremel tool with a cut-off disc. (I actually only cut off one of the screws because the other screw, though protruding, didn't seem to interfere with the action of the lock.) Insert your key into the lock and test it to ensure smooth operation.







13. Now insert the lock cylinder with attached plastic arm into the fuel door. Insert the metal clip over the lock cylinder, along the back-side of the fuel door, to secure the lock cylinder to the fuel door. Insert your key into the lock to actuate it, and close the fuel door. Test the operation of the fuel door and lock. (When I purchased my Tacoma, the fuel door lock was already toast. So I don't know if the fuel door was originally designed to close without the aid of the key in the lock. I suspect it was. With this fix, you must use your key to both open and close the fuel door.)





14. Sit back and bask in the glory of a fuel door that will stay closed the next time you drive your mighty steed.

 

I LOVE the innovation and I dig the hard work but I think for all that sweat I'd spend the $50. access to a 3D printer is limited in most places.

how much did you spend start to finish?

 

Thanks Mr. Biscuits! I spent $12 on parts and $1.00 for the 1/16" micro drill bit that I needed. The next time it fails, if it does, my only cost will be the 3D printed part, the price of which should decrease as 3D printing becomes more mainstream. I'd guess that the solid parts should cost no more than about $5.00 within a year.

The work really wasn't that hard and I still retain use of my original key for the lock. Most of my time was spent locating a 3D printer service. Factor additional wait time for the epoxy to cure; though that's not actual work time.

An additional fun factor was working with the 3D printer. There's something very fulfilling about manufacturing your own part and about the sustainability ethic of recycling the original lock. Hopefully, others will benefit from my work and the information to replicate it in far less time.

 

Great writeup! But I'd spend the $50 too. Although I do have a coworker with a 3D printer...

 

No, I don't think 2nd Gens came with locking fuel doors. So some 2nd Gen owners mod their fuel doors with electronic locks:

http://www.tacomaworld.com/forum/2nd-gen-tacomas/120660-locking-fuel-door-mod.html

 

$5 and 20 seconds gets you a locking cap. Just sayin'

 

Nice job. I was lazy and just use magnets to keep my gas door closed.

 

thanks.. good write up.
Its almost more trouble to get a new lock.. You would have to have it re keyed to your key (cost about 30$ to re key.)

subbed because i bet my plastic piece will break someday and i will need this lol.

 

I just had mine printed locally. My guy printed it for $25. Super Cool!

 

Very cool Mburnley! Still cheaper than a new lock from Toyota and you retain the use of your original key. If you run into any hiccups or have any questions about my experience, I'm happy to help if I can.

 

Maybe you could make a bunch and sell them. Would buy a spare if price was right.

 

he days of the average person having a 3d printer or even having access to one to use is a good 10 years from now at least I would guess.

but I applaud your ingenuity and drive in figuring this out.

if it cant be sourced at the salvage yard then a simple corner bracket and earth magnet will do for my needs )if I ever have this problem)

 

Pretty sure 3d printers are pretty inexpensive now.. Maybe in the 200$ ish range(for a small one of course..) I've definitly seen them in people's houses before.

 

Amazon has a 3D plastic printer kit for less than $300.00. 3D metal printers are available now too. I don't think the day is far off when most homes will have one, and (praying ) please God let there be a "Sticky" post on this forum then dedicated to 1st Gen parts files for home printing.

 

Justin from Ely Scot Enterprises, LLC, the company that 3D printed my fuel door lock arm, let me know that his company recently upgraded their 3D printer. They can now print even finer detail and stronger 3D parts. Here's Justin's contact info:

Justin Brower
Product Development
Ely Scot Enterprises, L.L.C
Cell: 417-693-1970
justinbrower@elyscot.com

I guess I better disclaim that I'm not in any way affiliated with this company and receive no benefit from anyone else doing business with them. I'm passing their contact information on in case anyone is looking for a business that offers 3D printing services. It's pretty easy to locate and buy a 3D printer, however, for those not looking to buy a 3D printer, it can be tough finding a company that offers 3D printing services. I was very pleased with the 3D printer work that Justin's company did for me.

 

Thank you so much to OP! Did this last weekend and works perfectly. For San Diego folks, I shopped around and got it printed at the Postal Connections at 4231 Balboa Ave for $7 total (they can only print in ABS plastic). I didn't screw the two pieces together like the OP mentioned (lazy), just JB Weld and let it cure for 24 hrs. I figure it was a $7 repair and it would have been $70 for the parts plus $25 for locksmith to rekey (i.e. $100 w/ tax total) so I could do this 14 more times if it breaks again and it will still pay for itself.

 

I’ve been running this fix on my truck for about five years now without any issue.

 

I created a solution to this on my storefront if anybody wants an easy fix for this issue. You can buy the product here. https://www.etsy.com/listing/1356244302/95-00-toyota-tacoma-magnetic-gas-door