2014 Bed Bolt size?

Here is the cheapest link plus shipping I've found online for the dodge ring retainers(D-Rings).

http://www.factorychryslerparts.com/products/RING-RING-RETAINER/4499879/05104500AA.html

 

Price comparison from two sites for 8D-Rings)

 

Mine came from factorymoparparts.com. A little cheaper for six plus shipping:

Mopar 05104500AA 05104500AA 6 3.32 RING-RETAINER RING (Shipped) USPS Tracking Number: 9405511899561834086383 Subtotal 19.92 Shipping 13.66 Tax 0.00 Total 33.58

 

I just got the Dodge rings installed in my '14 DCLB (same part # others have provided), can't go wrong w/ those. They're really stiff which to me is a plus because there's no way they'll rattle around back there.

The easiest method I found to get the washer off the bed bolts is to drill a 1 1/8" hole in a scrap 2x4, put the bolt on that hole upside down, then smack the bottom of the bolt with a hammer - takes the washer right off. The socket set method is probably a bit easier but a spade bit and 2x4 are a lot easier/cheaper to come by.

My bed bolts were in there way, way tighter than the factory torque spec (50 lb ft - yeah right!). My 18v impact driver can do just over 100 lb ft and I think I almost burned it up trying to loosen them, with no apparent effect. A bigger air impact driver took them right out though.

If you have a bed mat, a lot of people cut a hole out for them. I just looped a small tie-down loop around the D-rings (see link below for example) and cut a slit in the mat just long enough to fish the loop thru. It seems to be working pretty well so far. Cutting a hole is pretty permanent and creates a spot for debris to collect so I'd recommend trying the less invasive approach out for awhile to see if it works for you. You can always go back in and cut the hole if you need one.

(4-Pk) Sports & Outdoors Soft Tie-Down Straps

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B009T0MQVI/ref=oh_details_o01_s00_i00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

 

Very well said!! No bed mat but I plan to use your advice to remove the washer from the bolt. I also purchased a 24" breaker bar to help with the removal of the bed bolt.

 

These are the D-rings I got on Amazon. They are cheap, $9.82 for two ($2.92 part +$1.99 shipping) but heavy enough for anything I will do with them.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B005OWUHN4/ref=oh_details_o05_s00_i00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I did have to drill the bolt holes out a bit to fit the bolt , then painted the bare metal flat black. I was afraid to force the washer off of the bolt for damaging the bolt threads, and opted instead to cut part of the washer off with a sawzall in a vice while on the bolt.

All of my bolts came free with moderate effort except one. I hit it with a wrench slipped over the end of the ratchet, a breaker bar, two breaker bars, and an air impact. At some point during that process the nut that's welded in place broke free from its weld. I tried a screw removal bit, which broke, and squaring the bolt head to fit a socket, which just spun, and ended up just grinding the head off with a grinder. Put the nut and what was left of the bolt in the vice, and never could get it off. That sucker was froze tight. I highly recommend ANTI-SIEZE on all the bed bolts. I pulled the rest of the bed bolts out with nowhere near the drama of the frozen one and lubed them up with anti sieze when I was done.

So now I'm needing a new bolt and nut. The stealership said they could order the bolt, and the upgraded version is galvanized, he also said he had never sold one but I got a new one for around $13. The nut however Toyota dosen't sell by itself. So I had to order that from Fastenal. Fun times.

 

I notice that yours is a 2005. Mine is a 2011, so 6 years less time to rust in. However, you've taught a good lesson. I didn't have any trouble getting mine out with a breaker bar, but I think I'll take them out and add anti-seize...

 

Wow, that sounds crappy. Mine only took 15-20 minutes for the whole project, including applying the anti-seize. The bolts on mine are only threaded on the bottom 2/3 so I wasn't worried about damaging threads. I kept my washer and put it back on below the D-ring, it's probably not necessary though.

 

Installed the Amazon D-Rings. Works like a charm. Don't mind the mess, the straps holding down the stand are there just to keep the bike upright while loading and unloading. The D-rings mounted to the frame will take the weight of the Moto. Future project is to weld up a bracket that is bolted to the frame and the stand will attach and detach to it with welded D-Rings on the ends. Similar to the stand just built better.

 

The Dodge D Rings are quite nice. No drilling. Just tap the bolts out with a hammer from the washer.

 

In a prior thread on this, one guy drilled out his surplus rings, painted them, and they still rusted out quickly. After reading that, I decided to pull them and coat the bolts where I'd ground off the ridges. Then, I went to the Dodge rings...

 

The dodge rings are so much easier!

 

Must have missed it, What was the link for the dodge d rings?

 

Mine came from factorymoparparts.com. They're the cheapest I've found...