Nitrous Oxide (NOS): TPS Throttle Position Sensor WOT wide open throttle

I have a 2008 Tacoma V6. The wire harness connector that attaches to the TPS has 6 wires. Does anyone know where i can get a wiring schematic to help me determine which wire tracks the throttle position? The NOS system I'm installing activates only at Wide Open Throttle. I need to connect a wire from the module to the proper TPS wire that tracks WOT.
Thanks in advance for your help!

 

I wouldn't cut any of those wires. I'd find a hot at all times wire and put a switch in so you can have nos whenever you flip the switch. Tps use a 5v modified signal and if you start cutting and all that you'll put resistance in the circuits and mess up the signal. But that's just me

 

+1
Old school systems we'd just mount a momentary-on pushbutton under the gas pedal IF we wanted the failsafe.

Most of us put an "arm" switch on the dash and had a pushbutton on the "thumb end" of a Hurst shifter grip that went to the WOT signal.
Arm it any time, can go WOT without gas, hit the button on the shifter and go gas any time needed.

 

hohhhhly shit Im intrigued hahah!

 

You can read up how the tps works in the truck here
http://www.customtacos.com/tech.old...06toyrm/06toypdf/06rmsrc/rm2006ta/0050022.pdf

Agree with members who posted to go old school with the nitrous rather than slicing the wires . Its a 5 volt reference but because the tps is a basic potentionometer , I doubt WOT would show an actual 5 volts if you measured the sweep from idle to full throttle

 

ON previous vehicles, I used to use a micro switch at the throttle body, to trigger at wot. Don't really know how you'd do that with the fly by wire technology these days. Because even if you have the pedal buried, it doesn't mean that the computer has the throttle wide open...

But you wouldn't want it coming on under a certain rpm anyway, so I'd install two switches. One to power it up and one it activate the solenoids. I used to have one switch to arm and the micro switch would trigger the solenoids.

 

The RPM switch is important, I'd suggest that as well.

 

This. Momentary on/off behind the pedal (if installed right) is fail safe

 

Wow, that was my first post ever on a forum, and the feedback is great! I appreciate everyone's input. I really appreciate the link provided by Gearcruncher. Fordidipower brings up a good point about involantarily adding resistance to the circuit. I'm hoping it's negligible, but these systems can be very sensitive and designed to detect strange behavior.

The NOS module has a "set-up" mode when first installed. It "learns" the voltage range on the TPS from idle to WOT. After you follow the set-up process, the module has a green LED that indicates the system has learned the range and is ready for use.
After reading thought gearcruncher's link, I think VTA1 is the wire i need to tap into. I'll give that a try and see if the voltmeter reads a different voltage at idle vs WOT. If it does, I'll finish the wire-up and see if the module gives me the green light after walking through the set-up procedure.
Worst case, i go old school with a momentary on/off behind the pedal.
If it works, i'll keep you guys posted on the performance results.

 

Don't use soder. Use butt connectors and shrink wrap. That will lesson the chances of resistance. Good luck and let us know.

 

Solder. I also completely disagree with you. Properly tinned wires with a solid soldered connection will have negligible resistance, certainly less than butt connectors. I also agree with previous posters to go old school with a switch under the pedal, or no switch at all. Mo' simple is mo' betta.

 

x2 Also a less chance of the wires breaking and corroding if heat shrinked well.

 

Got my attention too.

 

All I know is high end luxury car companies don't soder to repair wiring. It's butt connectors or replace the harness. 99% of people don't actually know how to soder. As a automotive technician I never soder. Just my .000002

 

Where did you get that 99% number?

I never soder either... but I've done a LOT of soldering.

Soldering is not rocket science. If the proper solder is used (rosin core), it is fresh, the iron is hot, and the work and iron are clean, it is extremely easy to do.
It is also extremely easy to fuck up. If the work or iron are not clean, or if the solder is old, the result will be a frustrating mess of solder balls and a cold joint that will fail.

Soldering is not done by auto repair technicians because it is time consuming, and because the harnesses are not designed to be spliced into.
You can cut, strip, and butt-splice a wire without shortening it. You can't cut and solder a wire without shortening it by at least 1/2", and that poses a problem for a dealer tech because the harnesses are not built with any slack available.
But there is a solution. Use NON-INSULATED butt splices. Cut, strip, clean, splice... then apply heat to the butt splice and feed solder into the ends. You get the security and low resistance of a soldered joint without shortening the harness.

The 2nd problem with soldering is specific to vehicles and areas subject to high vibration... If the joint has heat and solder applied to it for too long, the solder will "wick" into the stranded wire surrounding the joint. This effectively turns the flexible stranded conductors into solid conductors that are very brittle and prone to breakage.

Again, soldering properly avoids these problems... shrink tubing covers the entire soldered area and provides a strain relief to prevent the soldered area from flexing and breaking.

Crimp connections, particularly in areas exposed to weather under the hood, are extremely prone to high resistance and future problems with corrosion.
If the heat shrink used is not the type that has sealant inside, moisture WILL get in. ALWAYS ALWAYS ALWAYS use lined heat shrink on any wiring on your vehicle outside of the cabin.


The factory harnesses are crimped using pneumatic equipment, and the crimped connections outside of the cab are sealed with splashproof seals on the connectors except for the larger power and ground cables. You are not duplicating that at your dealership, even if you are using a good pair of crimpers.
Joe Homeowner is going to pick up one of the $12 splicing kits at Home Depot that includes a cheap stamped crimper and an assortment of cheap Chinese butt connectors and he's going to get a shit connection from it.

 

Hi Gearcruncher, I finally finished installing my NOS system. I'm ready to test it, however, before i do, I hoping you can answer a question about the fuel lines & pressures. Do you know happen to know what the pressure is before the regulator? I assume the regulator steps it up before feeding the fuel rails. I'm just wondering what PSI gets generated by the fuel pump in the tank. Any knowledge here would be great appreciated.

 

Wrong. Butt splices and heat shrink is far stronger than solder and heat shrink.

 

That's a question for torspd, he can probably tell you off the top of his head.

 

Thanks for the torspd contact. He's been very helpful and linked me to another person Darkshadow who knows a lot about NOS.