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Can't shift out of Park (even with Override) - Park Lock Solenoid Failed

Discussion in '2nd Gen. Tacomas (2005-2015)' started by cdn_bacon, May 10, 2014.

  1. May 26, 2014 at 2:11 PM
    #41
    cdn_bacon

    cdn_bacon [OP] Well-Known Member

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    I think I may have jumped to victory too soon. I installed the new shift Assy. and it worked without a hitch for about a week. In the last 3 days its started doing the same thing... it won't let me shift out of park. Thankfully the new assy. will let me release out of park using the override button next to the shifter (the old unit wouldn't allow it).

    Its got to be the brake switch not sending signal to the solenoid. Its the only thing I can think of however the brake lights do work and Toyota checked it when I had it in and they said it worked. I'm really at a loss..... I may just order a new switch and change it out.

    Thoughts?
     
  2. May 26, 2014 at 5:20 PM
    #42
    over60

    over60 Over70 & still a "Grumpy Old Guy"

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    Oh, shit... I'd replace the brake light switch and make sure it's working right...

    Good luck man..
     
  3. Jul 14, 2014 at 5:37 AM
    #43
    OKJC

    OKJC Well-Known Member

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    Any update on this? I'm facing the same issue and gearcruncher linked me here. My fuses are all fine, and mine only does it some of the time. A week will go by with no issue and then it will sporadically happen or happen every single time for a day. Very frustrating. I can sit there and restarting my truck over and over until it works but yesterday I started forcing it like you were.
     
  4. Jul 14, 2014 at 5:45 AM
    #44
    cdn_bacon

    cdn_bacon [OP] Well-Known Member

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    Funny you mention this. I changed out my shifter assy and it worked perfectly.... For a while. Now it is like yours, sparatically working or not working. I thought it was maybe a buggy brake switch however I am having power issues to my 12v cig power sockets now. Again, sparatic. I think the truck is full of gremlins... So ready to get rid of the truck but still waiting for the new 2015 F150s to come out. (Come on Oct).
     
  5. Jul 14, 2014 at 11:28 AM
    #45
    gearcruncher

    gearcruncher Well-Known Member

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    Agree with Door ding here . Notice how he highlighted grounds and 12 volt power issues .
    At this point you have a needle in a haystack . Time to get into a wiring schematic and start checking the resistance of each wire in the circuit . The fact that no fuses are blown indicates that the circuit is still working but there may be a frayed wire or bad connection .
    Here is the diagnostic and the circuits you need to check including the resistance values .
    Before checking the resistance values , I would be looking at the easily accsessible variables first such as any connector where corrosion can occur

    http://www.customtacos.com/tech.old...6toyrm/06toypdf/06rmsrc/rm2006ta/02700810.pdf
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  6. Jul 14, 2014 at 12:24 PM
    #46
    Canufixit

    Canufixit Well-Known Member

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    That should be OK. IT's best to find the problem - but sometimes it's just not worth it. Many times I have a known open in a wire and rather than find the exact point and fix it - it's easier to just add a new wire. However, Just I case I'd use the largest wire AWG you can just in case this wire DOES act as a return path for other circuits due to other faulty grounds to the tranny/drivetrain.
     
  7. Jul 14, 2014 at 2:50 PM
    #47
    Canufixit

    Canufixit Well-Known Member

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    I'd just consider it as an extra ground strap from the frame to the drivetrain. You can always use more than one wire to be safe if you don't have a big awg.

    I'd probably go a parts store and get a hefty braded ground strap as it will take the flexing better on the drivetrain.
     
  8. Jul 14, 2014 at 5:15 PM
    #48
    TacoLlama

    TacoLlama Well-Known Member

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    Anyone have a proper schematic ?

    Where is the main cab ground stud located ? Maybe front firewall.Definitely worth looking at.

    Take a good look at the stop light switch and it's wiring.


    The ecu provides the voltage through the wire in the the below diagram (e-8-15) sending power engaging the solenoid when hitting the brakes and unlocking the shifter.
    Unplug the 2 wire switch at the shift lock solenoid.Ignition off, using your multimeter on Ohms find a good ground for one lead and the ground terminal in the 2 wire connector for the other lead.You should hear a buzz or have a real low reading depending on your meter (my meter usually says 0.2).Next grab the ECM wire (e8-15) with one lead and the other terminal in the 2 wire connector the + one.You should have a similar reading.This is just testing the wires.If either reading is real high you either have a bad ground wire or your + signal wire is corroded or broken between the ecm and the solenoid.I think the ecm sends both signals but have no way to verify it.The common ecm ground is that (e-6 1 ).

    ECM connector for brake switch test.

    trans.jpg

    Brake Switch Test


    stop light.jpg
     
    Last edited: Jul 14, 2014
  9. Mar 8, 2019 at 8:53 AM
    #49
    wmchenry02

    wmchenry02 Well-Known Member

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