Remote Battery Terminal Install

I'm looking to install remote battery terminals like one of the ones in the pics but I haven't been able to find much info on anyone doing this to their Tacoma.

I'd like to install them in the larger rear storage box, opposite of the bed electrical outlet.

I figure, with the appropriate heavy gauge wire and deep cycle battery, this would come in handy for just about anything you need battery posts for. Like extra jumping posts, an extra inverter power source with the truck off, tire inflators, and so on and so forth.

I figure the best spot would be in the box with the posts coming down from the ceiling of the box so they don't get wet.

Another idea would be routing a heavy duty cut off switch in the cab for safety.

I think I can pull it off pretty easily, but do you guys know of any write ups or experiences? Can you guys offer any advice on the project? Do and Don'ts, etc.

 

If I was going to do it, I'd just get a remote battery cable set. I'd use insulated cable clamps bolted to the frame to secure it. As far as waterproofing the connections, with my remote battery in my '40, I used dielectric grease between the connections and then covered them over with silicone. It's worked great so far, no parasitic drain and no movement of the cables. I used clear silicone that way I could see if any corrosion begins at the connections. Also, solder connections to the cable, I don't trust crimped connections.
If you don't want to run the main cable into and out of the cab, they make remote battery disconnects (looks like a ford starter solenoid).

 

What is the purpose of this?

 

I have another suggestion that might work for you if you have the towing package. Buy a 7 pin connector and make a cable using heavy gauge wire and lugs. Store the cable in the bed box and only connect it when you need it. The battery is directly connected to two of the pins in the connector. That way you don't have to worry about it shorting since it would only be plugged in when needed.

If you don't have the connector then never mind.

 

@03f5sp - Read my post, brother.

@ Hitmans.army - All definitely noted and great advice, brother. Thank you for the value added input!


@MiataTexan - Although that is a GREAT idea, and I do have the plug, I'd like the heavier cable and lugs to handle higher drain applications like dead vehicle jumping, 1000w inverter, etc.

 

Any other ideas/experiences out there?

 

Kinda like the idea actually, I see this set up on heavy duty Cat wheel loaders

 

Sorry for the double post but the Cat cable could be used with regular jumper cable connectors on one end. I'm gonna do a search and see if I can find any pics


found a cool site for this project http://www.centurytool.net/Plug_In_Cable_Kits_s/16302.htm

 

for that kind of current draw, you need to consider upwards of 4, 2, or 0 AWG cable. the 7 pin connector can not supply that.

To give you insight from my end, Using my wifes 8AWG jumper cable wont jump start my truck unless I wait roughly 5 minutes. Using my 2AWG jumper cable lets me jump start the truck as soon as I connect the terminals.

size does matter due to current resistance/limitations.

 

Subbed to see what you come up with. This seems like a pretty cool mod

 

This is what I'd recommend and what I did on my last FJ40 and my last Tacoma; I haven't gotten around to doing it on the current Tacoma but it's on the list, maybe I'll get to it eventually. I had them under the rear of the trucks and mounted to the front bumpers and the only precautions I took were the plastic caps on the ends and I kept the contacts slathered in dielectric grease. I never had any issues despite them occasionally being underwater during boat launches and the trucks being driven through mud and snow on occasion.

From the front of the truck to the bed is a long run so you need to use fairly heavy cable- I used some old welding cable that I'd come across at one of the metal salvage places.

 

I've been looking at wire and I agree with the 8 gauge would be too small as I've had the same jumping issues with low budget jumper cables. I've been eyeing this 4gauge cable for the project. I'm thinking 25 ft would be plenty to run the positive from the battery into the cab to the switch and back out to the bed. For the negative post, I was thinking of running the same cable in a 3ft or shorter length and using an existing bolt in the frame for the ground.

For those of you with better working knowledge of electric current; would some kind of fuse be needed or am I good with just a switch?

Thanks for all your input, folks!


Here's the wire I'm thinking of running.

Pyramid 4-Gauge Clear Black Ground Wire - 25 Ft. 4 AWG Gauge, Economy Oxygen-Free Copper Cable Wire w/ Flexible & Bendable Jacket, Translucent Matte Insulator, Chemical & Heat-Resistant RPB425

http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B000K8IZ3Q?pc_redir=1405438165&robot_redir=1

 

A circuit breaker is a good idea but you'd need something really heavy duty to handle the load jump starting puts on it; I never had one in line. Warn uses a solenoid in their kit. Obviously if you're not using a circuit breaker or fuse you need to insure that your cables are protected from possible damage from foreign objects i.e. sticks and stuff coming off the road, as well as from any wear such as where it passes the edges of the frame, etc.

I'm no expert by any stretch when it comes to electrical stuff, but I'd go as large as you can for that long run if you plan to use it for jumping or may at some point add a winch. The Warn kit uses 2ga.

This kit comes with everything including the solenoid:

$270 WARN 32966 24' Quick Connect Power Cable

http://www.amazon.com/32966-Quick-C...F8&refRID=0RNP2M9AQ2CCV9NV6B4S#productDetails

 

Well now it seems I also have another project for my truck!!!