Hub Bolt Replacement - How to?

I have never sheared a hub bolt before when removing a wheel from an axle, but I sheared two hub bolts from the driver side rear axle on my '97 T100 4WD this afternoon.

Both instances, the lug nut was initially loosening from the hub bolt, but then seized/froze on the hub bolt, and I eventually sheared the hub bolt to get the lug nut off and remove the rear tire.

My question is: what do you guys use to press out a damaged hub bolt, and then press in a new hub bolt?

 

BFH

 

Hammer, I need to replace mine.

 

I think once you get the drum off it will be pretty easy to get those lugs out.

 

BFH......I like that, always works when all else fails!

 

I forgot to say that you need to take the drums off. If it is like my tacoma, there is two holes in the drum where you can put two bolts in and tighten them it will push off the drum.

 

Well, on the ones I've done long ago ....
Remove the Drum.
Using a round punch, hammer out the broken lug.
Place the new lug in from the back side - put on a washer(s) and nut on outside and tighten to pull the new lug into place. You may need some larger washers if there is a shoulder that will be proud of the outside drum . If you are afraid that the bolt is going to strip / break you can add some lube and give the back head of the new lug a few taps between trying to tighten.
Of Course a Press make it easy.....

Oh Yeah, If you are using the lug nuts - be sure to use the Flat side towards the drum. IT would be a good Idea if you have an extra nut to discard the one you use for the press in ...

 

I've got a ball joint removal tool that might work as a press to remove the sheared bolt.....and was thinking same thing about tightening new bolt with nut/washers from the front side of the hub

 

Technically those are called wheel studs, and they're are not difficult to replace.
Obtain new studs and some large washers.
Chock the front wheels front and back. Jack up the axle, use a good jack stand to support the axle. Release the parking brake (that's why you chock the wheels!) and remove the brake drum. Using a BFH [Big-F*****g-Hammer) drive the broken stud out of the axle flange. You may need a good center punch if the stud is broken flush with the axle. On some applications you need to remove the brake shoes to gain enough room, I can't remember if that's necessary on Toyota, maybe someone else will chime in.
After you drive the broken stud out, insert the new stud from the rear. It is very apparent how that works.
Stack a bunch of washers over the threaded portion of the stud and put a little grease on the threads.
Put the lug nut on Backwards so that the flat portion of the nut contacts the washers. If you have some fancy acorn type nut, buy a spare conventional nut when you get the new studs.
Tighten the nut until the new stud is pulled into its seat. You may need to add washers as you go.
Remove the nut and washers, reinstall the brake shoes / drum / wheel.
Remove the jack stand, jack, wheel chocks
Check the lug nuts.

Get a beer.

 

By the way, a little grease applied to the threads goes a long way in preventing that problem. Not to mention making it possible to actually change a flat tire with a lug wrench if you need to.
Dry, rusted wheel studs combined with some over-zealous mechanic and his impact wrench can make it nearly impossible to remove a wheel when you need to.
One of the first things I do when I acquire a "new to me" vehicle; is to remove the lug nuts and clean/grease all of the wheel studs. A torque wrench is not a necessity when tightening lug nuts but it does provide some peace of mind if you have one.
It's also a good idea to check the spare tire and confirm that you have a functioning jack and all of the needed tools to change a tire.

 

Good Comment. Although I bought my Taco new I'm going to pull each wheel for a home inspection and lube the studs w/ never seize.....

 

Hi all.

The lugnuts are to be torqued to 83 foot pounds - dry ...
If you grease the studs and then torque them to 83 they will be over-torqued.
There should be no problem removing lugnuts that were torqued properly onto clean dry studs.

Cheers
Ray.

 

If you clean the rust off the threads, apply a little grease to the threads and tighten the lug nuts using the appropriate pattern to about 85 ft./lbs. or , if lacking a torque wrench, what feels tight....

• You will not warp anything
• The wheel will not fall off
• You will not break the studs or strip the threads
• You will be able to get the wheel off when you need to

I've been doing that for well over 30 years and it seems to be working. Maybe the wheels will fall off tomorrow but I'm betting they won't.

Your Mileage May Vary but not by enough to worry about.

 

For those like me who prefer to not actually user grease on a wheel stud, you can also use graphite powder. It works the same in allowing the nut to be removed easy enough, but does not have as much of an affect on the torque, and doesn't collect up dirt and grime either. I prefer graphite myself as it is much cleaner.

 

Thanks for all the good tips guys, much appreciated