achievable alignment specs w/ stock UCA's

I just installed Toytec ajustable coil-overs. I've set them up to be about 2.5" of lift. 22.5" from centre of the hub to bottom of fender. I've read recommended alignment specs on the site for lifts but after it's stated it always says" can not get with stock UCA's". So I now have 2.5" of lift with 265/70/17's with stock UCA's. I'm going for an alignment this week. What specs should I tell the shop to realistically shoot for? I typially read:
Camber: 0
Toe: 0
Caster: 2.4 - 3.1 (which I don't think can be reached with stock UCA's?)

 

Why not just tell them to make it drive straight.

 

as long as you can get 1.5* of caster id call it good, be better if it was closer to 2

 

As much caster as they can get without messing with your toe and camber at 0*.

I wound up with 1.1* and my truck drove like shit.

 

If the shop has a quality machine and the Tech knows what he is doing, there should be no problem getting the alignment correct. Im not trying to be a smart ass but some one who is skilled at doing alignments wont need you to tell them what specs to shoot for.

 

Yeah, not sure if you'll get enough caster without dicking up the camber without new UCAs. 1.3 caster on my 05 AC sucked with 2.25" lift before doing LR UCAs and then having 2.7. Right now on the 08 RC with 1.75" lift up front, I have 1.6 - 1.7 of caster and it is tolerable but still sucks compared to having mid 2s on caster. I have another set of LR UCAs fixin to go on the 08.

 

Thanks guys. It's at shop now. Should have results in a couple hours to post.

 

Got it back. Drives straight and feels good but rubbing on mud flap on right hand turns. Removed the mud flaps when I got home. Not much room to the fender. Maybe 1/2". I'm worried if I go wheeling it's going to catch. I shouldn't need a chop with 265/70/17's and a 2.5" lift? Opinions?

 

Depends on the offset of your rim. I rub the flaps and inner front liner with the same size tire and 1.75" of lift. It is due to the -12 offset of my rims. Don't rub at all with the same size tire on my stock TRD rims.

 

XD SERIES
XD122 ENDURO
COLOR
Matte Black
17" x 9 -6mm

So would spacers fix this issue? Wouldn't they just push the tire out not up. I'm thinking UCA's would fix this but with only a 2.5" lift and 265/70/17 tires I shouldn't have any issue to start with. I'm guessing bad alignment job. At $200 I may bring it back tomorrow.

 

Oh Boy... First off, did you for really pay 200 DAMN DOLLARS for an alignment?? Wheel spacers will only make your problem worse, upper control arms and alignment may not help because of your rim backspacing/offset and you are far off from needing a cab mount chop. With a a wider than stock rim and a rim with less back spacing/offset it will cause a little rub in the back. The only way you will cure this is to take some snips, clip the little tab that sticks out off of the flare and then you can take a heat gun and push you inner fender in a bit. No one will ever notice if you do this properly, the little rub you have generally wont hurt any thing any way. OR you can go back to your stock rims with those tires and you wont have any issues.

 

new uca's and caster @2.5 you will solve several problems, rubbing/binding the coil at full droop, rubbing the mud flap because the wheel will be further forward in da wheel well due to 2.5 caster, and she will track real good on paved roads...

that is the right way to do it....you can get by without new UCA's, but it will never be completely right...

$200 seems a bit high for an alignment....but it is Canada...

 

Oh for sure UCA' s will help with alignment, im just saying with his wheel and offset/backspacing it may not cure all of his little rubbing issue. If it drives good i wouldnt put uca's on just to try and stop that little rub. But if you got the extra cash layin around then go for it. Just my opinion.

 

Consider investing in some UCAs. If you think it feels good with 0.5* caster, you'll be amazed how it drives with 3*.

For LR UCAs, they recommend the following for tire rub at back of fender (from their FAQs)...."Use the lower arm adjustment cams to roll the lower ball joint forward for maximum caster. (Pull the forward bushing in and push the rearward bushing out.) Then adjust the upper ball joint to get the caster and camber alignment in spec. Doing this can move the wheel center forward by ½"- ¾" in most cases."

 

OP, I realize you are done, but ^^^ this. The specs they gave you can be much better by reducing the camber to near 0, and then getting as much caster as is possible. Most chain places need to have this statment made several times to really "get" that this is what you want, that is, a specific spec, not the stock ranges they have documented. And, for the price you paid, you should get what you ask for!

 

I agree. I did ask for what your saying. They seem way more concerned about the manufacture specs in their computer. I'm going to try and bring it back today.

 

Keep on them to treat you like a custom truck with aftermarket parts that needs a specific set of specs, that are not the stock ranges.

 

THIS.

 

No, in the absence of other info from the owner, a skilled alignment tech will try and put the alignment in the middle of each specified range. (An unskilled guy with minimal training will simply turn wrenches until the lights on the machine turn from red to green and call it "perfect" but I digress.)

So you'll get the middle of the range for toe (perfect!), the middle of the camber (perfect?), and way the hell out of spec on caster, which they'll blame on the lift.

A lifted tacoma drives better and still has good tire wear with 0* camber (one extreme end of the range) and as much caster as you can then get (other extreme end of the range.)

 

At the end of the day, you'll probably still need to trim/melt/bend more plastic for wheel clearance based on your rims. Who told you it was a Good Idea to mount a 265 width tire on a 9" wide rim??