Rigid Duallys in stock fog light location - all done..

I have been wanting to put a pair of Rigid Dually floods in my fog light holes for a bit but since I was unable to find anyone that had done this I figured I would do a write up for it.

I started with the fog light kit for the 2010-2013 Tundra: http://www.rigidindustries.com/mounting-options/40155 after reading that it would work on our Tacoma's here: http://www.assuredautomotiveproducts.com/RIGID-Toyota-Tundra-2010-2012-Dually-D2-Fog-Light-Kit-40155-ACRD40155.htm. I ended up ordering the kit off of Amazon since it was a little cheaper and I get free shipping with the Prime membership. So here it goes.


I will say this first...The kit works but it is not direct bolt in. Once you do this mod, stock fog lights will no longer fit back where they came from without more modification. I am not responsible if you mess up your own stuff but it really isn't that difficult.

Tip #1, take off your bumper first. It is a lot easier to take an extra 5 minutes to do this instead of trying to do everything behind the bumper on a floor crawler. Make sure you unclip the wires from the fog lights first and then a few bolts and plastic clips. I am not going to show this step.

This is what the fog light hole looks like when empty, if you didn't already know.


This is the bracket that comes in the kit just slid in there to check the fitting. It is nice and tight so that is good.


The holes on either side of the housing do not hinder the sliding in but offer no mounting options or help. Time to get creative.





So from here, I marked my holes and took out the bracket to drill. Good luck with this as it is tight in there (hence why the bumper comes off in a minute and makes life much easier).







At this point, everything is going great and I am happy. It is just moments after this picture that I made an important discovery...

As you may or may not know, the duallys mount to the bracket from the back side using the 2 center screws and 2 small washers. With the bracket mounted and bolted in, you can't get the light in the hole from the back, it is too big. On the other hand, you can't preassemble the light to the bracket because you will then not be able to get the bolt in to mount the bracket. Bracket first then light in through the back is the ONLY way to do this. This is where I took the bumper off to get a firm grasp of the situation at hand. Also time to realize that there was no going back once I get started on modifying.



The plastic support and clip here are in the way on the top part of the housing.


The adjustment screw hole for the stock light is in the way on the bottom.


No going back now, get the dremel out.

Hole before:


Hole after, but the other side since I had already done that one. Also mocked up the bracket in there.



It doesn't have to be pretty since the mount bracket will sit flush in the hole and hide everything behind. Now the light will slide in and we are able to mount it up.

This is where I noticed another problem. The kit comes with a small bolt, small washer and a nut. When you tighten it down, since you are only bolting to plastic, it wants to pull through. Off to home depot for some better hardware. I picked up a same size bolt only longer with a new small washer and bigger washer for each bolt. So from inside out it goes: bolt with small washer into the bracket on the inside then big washer, small washer and I decided to get some Nyloc nuts for peace of mind. I don't actually have any pictures of that but use your imagination.

Here is the final product:







Now, I have not actually wired them up, that will happen tonight hopefully. My plan is to use the factory wiring and just cut and splice them together.

 

sub'd

looking good OP. I am glad to see that the Tundra bracket works. Might have to give this a try!

 

Also got all of this delivered yesterday, ready to install this weekend. Also in the other box are new 5100 fronts with OME 885 coils. All preassembled ready to swap in.

 

Is the tab you did not cut; pictured here:



Is that tab metal? Is that the top or bottom tab? Kind of hard to tell from the pic sorry

 

That is at the top of the hole when the bumper is mounted, it is plastic painted silver. Not sure why as the other is black so who knows. I actually did have to trim that a little. Just the part under the U shaped molding, maybe a few mm's. Basically straight across where it is already flat.

 

Can that top clip be removed at all to be replaced later on?

My only thought is that I would maybe want to sell my stock bumper if I get an plated one and I would want to keep the aftermarket fogs and sell the stock one as best as I could with the stock fogs in there.

I was maybe thinking of fabbing a bracket that spans across the hole, drilling a hole in the center of the bracket and then mounting the fogs using the bottom mounting point. So it would be bolted in sliding the dually in from the front as opposed to back to front like you had done. Not sure how that would work due to structural rigidity with those being plastic but some washers and lock nuts would probably do the trick. Sorry about all the questions lol

 

No worries, are you thinking about using the same brackets I did or go without? Without the brackets you will be able to see all the way through. That's not a huge deal but I like the cleaner look personally. I think that the clip can be undone but it was 11pm and I was ready to be done so I just dremeled off the little bit. You could also trim more on the back lip if you prefer. I was just fine tuning it trying to make a small of a hole as possible to get the lights in.

 

I think what I might try is making a bracket that mounts on the sides, like the one you got, it would be shaped like this:


Behind bumper
|__|
Facing front of vehicle


And then mount the light with a bolt by drilling a hole in the center.

 

Looks like it should work. Keep us posted.

 

nice ive been wondering if i could do that know i see i can its time for a order

 

Looks great and thanks for the write up.

I'm curious to see if they hold up under offroad use.

 

Looks pretty nice. I'm liking this. Good write up as well. I'm curious to see how the light output looks and the alighnment of the light.

 

Nice find! +1 rep.

 

We will see how this works out. I can tell you for sure that the mount is in there very solid. It's not going anywhere. The actual light itself is only held to the mount with 2 little screws in the face which go into the middle 2 holes on the light. I am a little nervous about that but plan to do some reinforcement or safety line or something to make sure it doesn't go anywhere.

I should have this wired up this afternoon and will go do some testing tonight. I am wiring them to the factory fog light wires and switch since I did the anytime on mod. That way I can control spots and the floods independently. As far as the the alignment on the light, it is fixed so hopefully it's good. Worst case scenario I can loosen the side bolts on the mount and slide it forward a little. That should give some minimal up and down adjustment if needed.

 

Great post. Never thought of putting the rigids there.

Can you tell me where you got your 5100's pre-assembled with the OME 885s?

 

They came directly from Wheelers that way. I had to pay a little extra... but yeah. I just wanted to be able to do a swap out. If not, I would have had to find a shop to do it and it would require parts that are on the truck. So it would be disassemble and get parts, go to shop and pay for assembly and then finish. The extra costs cover the work and the new parts that go on it like washers bushings etc. I also had them remove one of the overload leafs of each Dakar pack so that it would not raise the rear quite so high. It's only money right lol.

 

So I got the wiring done this afternoon, couldn't have been easier. I used the plugs in the harness for the Rigids and cut the wires about 10 inches after that and attached them to the factory fog light wires with some butt connectors, then electrical tape.

FYI: Green is power and White with black stripe is negative.

Here are some pictures but they don't do justice. For the night pictures, the trees are about 40 feet away give or take.



Flood lights only (and dtrl's)



Floods and Spots (and dtrl's)



Floods, Spots and low beams



Floods, Spots and high beams

 

Nice work, but have to say butt connectors and electrical tape are not the way to go, surprised you shortcut the electrical.

Even in florida that will corrode, electrical tape is not sealing anything up. Been there and done that. Only way to go is solder that connection or at least shrink tube the butt splice.

Rigids are so nice. Nice setup.

 

I agree it was the quick way but I made sure the connection was good and I also picked up some of the liquid tape stuff to cover everything good. The connection is quite waterproof at the moment.

 

Well, got my lift done this weekend. Figured I'd drop a few pics here as not to start a whole new thread.