Carrier bearing; DORMAN vs SKF?

Rock Auto has both. The SKF is nearly 3x the price of the DORMAN. In searching I'm finding few references to the SKF bearing. I did find someone who said they were on their second cheap bearing though.

Is SKF worth the extra cost?

 

I would absolutely NOT put a Dorman bearing on your truck. I bought one through Rock Auto, it was cheap but they had a great warranty. I got about 300 miles out of the first bearing before it started squealing. Rock Auto was great, they warrantied it and sent me another. I got almost 500 miles out of the second one. I made sure everything went together the correct way both times. Rock Auto gave me a store credit instead of going for a third. I ended up buying an OEM bearing to the tune of $150, 3x the cost of the Dorman.

Here's an interesting fact though, I had some slight vibrations and a shutter at certain speeds with my old OEM bearing, they all went away with both Dorman bearings and came back when I went back to OEM. The OEM I believe is a better bearing but the rubber around it is shit. The Dorman is the opposite.

 

Thanks for the reply. I was kind of leaning toward trying the SKF anyway. I think you've pushed me over that edge, although I may look into a factory bearing too.

 

SKF makes a very good bearing. They are expensive because they are very high quality. I used to repair large rotating machinery such as electric motors which run at high RPMs in high heat with heavy loads. SKF was one of the best bearings available for these applications. I suspect they would do quite well on your truck too.

If you get the bearing number (not the store part number) you might be able to find a local bearing dealer that you can buy it from cheaper than an auto parts supplier. I rebuilt the pump on my Yamaha Waverunner a few years ago and bought bearings locally instead of buying the "Yamaha" bearings.

 

Bearings are like tires IMO, you get what you pay for. No Dorman for me, I always bought Timkens when I could get them for the application.

 

There was an earlier post from a member who said he replaced his bearing with one from a Ford Ranger as it uses the same inside diameter as the Tacoma . I am assuming that Spicer also makes the driveline for Ford . With this said , apparently the rubber bonding on the Ranger bearing is solid and not flexible like the Tacoma . This replacement Ford bearing could be a cheap an easy fix to a well known Tacoma issue .
If I find the post again , i will edit and link to it .
In the mean time , SKF all the way

 

Thanks guys. I went with the SKF, it should be here Saturday.

 

Subd for results

 

I'll be sure to post updates.

The u-joints were shipped separately, they're scheduled to arrive Thursday. I'm hoping to work on the two u-joints that I can replace tomorrow night some if I can get out of work early enough, then hopefully finish the job Saturday or Sunday.

 

Still waiting for the SKF bearing, but tonight I pulled the three u-joints and the yoke in front of the CSB bearing. Turns out that bearing was probably alright and didn't need replaced, but that's OK, it's getting replaced now.

Two of the u-joints were fine I think too. Only the one in the rear was clearly in bad shape.

 

I'm curious if the skf bearing fits because it also cross references with the 1st gens

 

Sure hope so. I should find out tomorrow.

 

Any updates on the SKF bearing? I need a new one too and would like to order this one if it fits.

 

What did you end up getting for u-joints? I ordered Moog for mine and out of the 3 I ordered, 1 actually fit.

 

It arrived late Saturday and I got it on that night. Seemed to fit fine. I went for maybe a 30 mile ride Sunday, no issues so far. The shuddering and noises I had before are gone.

I should say though, I think my problems were entirely with just one u-joint. The other two were fine, and once I was able to get a better look at the CSB and then subsequently compare to the new one once mounted, I think the old one was probably fine. I can move the shaft inside the new one about as much as the old one I think.

 

Spicer greasables from Rock Auto. All fit, I'm happy with them so far.

 

That's sounds great. I'm going ahead to order it.

I'm also replacing my u-joints with Spicer Life series

 

You may already know this, but just in case the Spicer "Life" means sealed and lubricated for the life of the u-joint. If you want zerks don't get the Life parts. I almost got the Life ones until I found that out.

 

Spicer Life has greasable ones now.

5-1330-1X

http://www2.dana.com/pdf/J3262-4-DAG.pdf

$32 Spicer 5-1330-1X U-Joint Kit

http://www.amazon.com/Spicer-5-1330-1X-U-Joint-Kit/dp/B00DOI8BDS

 

Interesting. I guess the person I talked to at Rock Auto didn't know what they were talking about.

Oh well, I'm sure the ones I put in are fine.