01 tacoma xtra cab JL audio stealthbox

I've finally decided to add some bass to my tacoma and have been looking around for a decent looking sub box that doesn't take up all of what little room I have in my tacoma.

I stumbled on the jl stealthbox which is exactly what I was looking for minus the price. Now I have no idea how to build my own box so that is out of the question and currently trying to talk myself into spending the money on this box/sub. If I do decide to buy this thing how easy is the install? Does it come with screws that drill through the back seat plate or will I have to drill a hole first then attach? If anybody has installed this particular sub could you give me some info, thanks.

 

ok i guess nobody uses this thing i guess.. makes sense b/c of price but the sub is pretty decent. Any suggestions then or other custom made boxes i could use?

 

did you bother searching for "access cab subwoofer" before making this post?

 

Well - if you know nothing about building boxes, building something similar to the JL stealthbox isn't probably doable. The W3 10" in the box is a $200 driver all by itself. That box doesn't come with an amplifier though. You'll still need an amplifier, power wire,and the means to connect it to whatever headunit you have.

 

Right, I'm not completely clueless on car audio as I did replace my hu and strip my door panels off replacing the speakers rewiring them to an amp. My question is how I would go about screwing it down, guessing I would have to cut the plastic piece a little bit at some point?

Anyways I'm still not set on this box bc the price is stupid, I may just go for a smaller box that I can put behind driver seat. Any recommendations?

 

There's a bolt int he floor you remove, and replace with a bolt coming up through the hole that screws into the stealthbox. There's also a bracket that you install on the back wall. http://mediacdn.jlaudio.com/media/mfg/9013/media_document/live_1/SB_T_TACEXT_MAN.pdf?1305783861

That box could be replicated - or you could fabricate up something similar that would serve as a console for the jump seat passengers.

If you never plan on having passengers back there and don't mind giving up some of your jump seat - just put a traditional box there, I suppose.

 

There's a couple more designs here other members are showing off: http://www.tacomaworld.com/forum/au...iberglass-box-i-still-have-my-rear-seats.html

 

Yeh I think i decided to save some dollars and put a box behind the driver's seat. I'm currently looking at the JL audio HO Wedge which has great reviews and should fit perfectly back there
http://www.crutchfield.com/S-MYMbxFbSl9j/p_13693135/JL-Audio-HO110RG-W3v3.html

My only question now is wiring two amps. I currently use an amp to wire my speakers at 75x4 rms and am going to purchase a seperate 500w rms amp for the sub. I guess im gonna have to change out my power wire for a 1/0 gauge and run it to a distribution block to feed out two 4 gauge wires for the amps (assuming my speaker amp can handle a 4 gauge wire... sound ordnance m-4075 if anybody knows). For the rca cables i guess im gonna have to purchase a y splitter as well? need to research more on this. My current amp has two pairs of rca cables connected from the headunit to the front and rear inputs on the amp. I like to have the option of fading front to rear need be. Also I think im just going to splice into my signal wire for the sub amp.

 

There's no reason you'd nee 1/0 gauge for that wattage - those amps don't pull that much current - especially not in the usage you'd be putting them in. You could run another run of 4 ga and be fine, but if you want to upgrade your main run and use a fuseblock/distribution block, then that's your call. You could repurpose your main 4 ga run to feeding the amps from the distribution block. From what I see your M-4075 has a preamp output - which means there's a pass thru for RCA to pass signal to a sub amp, so you'd just come off the 4075 to your new sub amp.

 

Looking at the 4075 on crutchfield - it has 8ga power/gnd terminals - so I dunno if you can cram 4 ga in there - probably not needed. What sub amp are you looking at? a Lot of distribution blocks can handle 4 and 8 ga ouputs, so do what you need. If you can get 2ga for the main do it - otherwise you'd probably be fine running a good quality OFC 4 ga as the main run to your battery. If you want to go bigger - no harm either - just gets pricier.

 

http://www.supercrewsound.com/10tacoecconsole.html

http://mmxpress.com/special-fit-subwoofer-enclosures/

found these two sites when I was looking around for boxes. I have a traditional 2x10" box behind the driver's seat and if needed I can still use the passenger rear seat.

 

Yeh i figured the 1/0 was overkill. So I think I may run a 4 gauge power wire to a distr block and then run an 8 gauge from that to the speaker amp and 4 gauge to the sub amp (assuming that's ok). For the sub amp I'm looking at the alpine mrv-m500
http://www.crutchfield.com/S-UGDiSS1EjsR/p_500MRVM500/Alpine-MRV-M500.html

Still a little unclear on where to connect the rca on my speaker amp to the sub amp but will look into it more

 

Also, what would be the best way to add an on/off switch for my sub? I obviously can't add it to the remote wire bc then it would cut off my speakers too hah